Ragsf15e

Was the fuel and oil properly accounted for?

I also use hot start technique after initial start. If it doesn’t start, you can always do a cold start. If you do a cold start first (prime it), you can’t take that back.

So two times now on consecutive flights my GTX345 has popped an error message “No Altitude” or something like that (I need to look up exactly what it said in the manual). Sure enough, atc said they lost my altitude. It’s using my G5s as an encoder and they don’t show any errors or anything weird with the altitude. Both times I turned off the transponder, turned it back on, selected “alt” and it worked perfectly. Both times it was just after takeoff, and the transponder then worked flawlessly for a 3 hour flight. Any thoughts? Anyone know what kind of troubleshooting an avionics shop would want to do if it keeps happening? Heres the error, but I don’t think it lost contact with the g5s as it then worked fine for 3 hours?

I’ve had a similar audio issue after maintenance and it was due to the ignition leads not being tightened. In fact the top 4 were all loose. Might just want to check there’s no fraying and all are secure at the mag and plugs.

Possibly, but most of the Mooney ammeters are set up to just show current to/from the battery, not the total power being drawn by the electrical system.

I would check (and probably just redo) the radio ground. The vr is another good thing to look at though… Heres another thought… swap the antennas in the back of the radios and see if it switches to comm 2. That way you’ll know if it’s a shielding issue with the antenna or a power issue with the radio. I know it’s sometimes difficult to get to the back of the radios…

Yeah, I agree with you, maybe I was wishful thinking that he was solving the problem for those of us with the vintage cranks, but you might be right.

I was thinking he described his as the circular crank on the side of the cabin next to the pilot’s left knee?

So does it look like you can basically build one of these by having the parts machined and installing a new cable?

Maybe you should have bought 10m and gone into business?! This one is spooky because there’s not much of a workaround if you can’t get this part.

What do you guys think would happen if someone ordered one of these from Mooney?

No that’s the one. I did think it was a female pilot but I could be wrong. Fighter pilot stories only require 10% truth anyway, so this one is solid gold even if i said a “female pilot did an inverted break and a -4g base turn”.

Not to insult Naval Aviators, but didn’t that $100 million F-35 crash in the S China Sea because the Navy pilot was trying to “buzz the tower” to show off for her last landing on the boat?

Fair enough. You can obviously do it that way. I will also load the full approach, but will activate vtf as it does keep the waypoints that are on the straight line segment to the faf. As you are indicating, “activating the approach” isn’t even a requirement. There’s no magic. It just takes care of a bunch of tasks you’ll eventually need to do like setting the gps mode to vloc (depending on your system and approach) and setting steering to the iaf or faf. If you do those things yourself, no need to activate. Although you do have to be careful how you activate the leg into the faf as going direct to it will not work and could lead you to believe you’re established when you aren’t. Activating the approach mode on the autopilot is a whole different beast because it selects new autopilot modes and authorizes the autopilot to steer you laterally and vertically on the approach.

One thought with “never activate the approach before cleared”… what about vectors to final? I agree that you might not want to activate before cleared the approach sometimes (like when using gps for steering), but when you’re receiving vectors, it’s good to activate it ahead of time so you can verify everything is set up correctly and there’s less button pushing on that final turn to the faf. If you’re getting vectors, you’re in heading mode, so you can get the gps or ils set up ahead of time and check it. That’s exactly what “activate the approach”does on the gps. Another time I can think of is when you’re cleared to the iaf but not cleared the approach. Activating the approach will give you steering to the iaf (you could also select direct). It will not descend you below the selected altitude. in both these cases, the ap will not fly the vertical part of the approach because you haven’t selected “Approach mode” which will give you gp or gs and allow it to descend below your selected altitude on glidepath. I will not select “Approach” mode on the autopilot before being cleared for the approach because it will descend below your selected altitude on glidepath. But activating the approach is simply setting up your gps for the approach. In a g1000, they seem so similar because it’s all integrated, but with separate boxes it’s a little easier to see the difference.

To reinforce what was just said, know the difference between hitting “activate approach” on your gps and hitting “approach” mode on your autopilot mode. They are different things and need to be used at the correct times.

That’s significantly lower than most of them… are you sure that’s the problem? Possibly it’s got something stuck in the relief valve, blocking the intake or another issue, but that would definitely have me looking into a cause vs just trying to turn it up?

Im in Spokane as well. I have a hangar as Felts and have used NW Flight Service for about 6 years (Pete Reed is the main IA, but there are two others there). I like them a lot. Reasonable about what they do, how they do it. They aren’t mooney specific (Cirrus is their bread and butter), but Pete is very knowledgeable. Book early because they are busy. If owner assisted is your thing, they’ve been receptive to me saving some money by pulling and reinstalling all my inspection and belly panels, but I would never say they are “cheap”. Fair, yes, but they have a nice big hanger, parts manager, 3 IAs, etc.

He didn’t say anything about oscillations. I wonder if this is addressing some other issue?

Once a pilot, always a pilot. Never say you’re not a pilot, because you are.

Yikes, mine is at 18.5gph on takeoff. 16 definitely seems low.

I’m sure you could get all kinds of advice, but i’d go out and climb from sea level to 6k with all 3 knobs full forward, 115kts and cowl flaps full open. I bet temps are fine. If they aren’t, then at least you’ll have a good stable basis to analyze.

Here’s a couple thoughts from the savvy graphic… it looks like just the start, taxi and climb portion, no? So why is your egt climbing in your climb? If you don’t touch the mixture, egt will fall slowly as you climb and get richer due to less air. So to me, it looks like you’re too lean in the climb. If you are leaning in the climb, you’re leaning too much. Egt actual numbers aren’t exactly meaningful, but something in the low to mid 1200s in climb is more realistic. You are in the mid 1300s. Mine would be really hot too!

The engine is very dependent on lots of airflow. Your airspeed and your mixture is your cooling. So cowl flaps should be full open in climb and measured to make sure they are properly adjusted. Closed in cruise doesn’t mean they are flush. The mm has the spec but they should be open around an inch when “closed”. You need to climb at a higher speed than Vy. 110kts should do it. This is key, so “not sure” isn’t what you want. If you were at 100kts indicated, it would be noticeably hotter than 110kts. I use 120mph since my airplane is in mph. If you don’t like your climb cht, were you already full rich and still seeing 420cht?

Those baffles look real nice. What speed are you climbing at?