Ragsf15e

Wowza! Glad it didn’t collapse on you!

Nothing wrong with a new engine, but I might consider just getting a good shop to overhaul what you have. A good shop should be able to do that and end up with an engine as good as a new one (or better). It will probably take less time too. If you want an engine on hand, I might call western skyways and the other big shops to discuss. They might have a core (or know how to get one) they could oh to new limits and take yours on exchange.

I think trying a good comfortable earplug under a comfortable passive headset is worth a try. That was the standard way we all flew in military jets because they are ridiculously loud. It works and you can get real comfortable with it.

And come to think of it, if mine had a short after the ALT breaker, that cb might pop, but the short would probably still be there (now shorting the battery). Something tells me that would be bad, no?

Yikes, I’m confused, but one thing I’m sure of is I’m glad I’m not a EE! You guys agree less than lawyers! So on my F (PP Alt, zef vr), that breaker would only stop the ALT output. The battery wire comes through the starter solenoid and then directly to the busses. So in the case of the ALT breaker blowing, the vr is still getting bus voltage (supplied by the battery). Either the ALT is putting out way too much current for some reason (and popping the breaker) or there’s a short after the breaker and the alternator is trying to put out way too much current, no?

I used 1/4” pvc to make a sign that goes into the towbar hole. Then I put it through and put a pvc end cap on. They physically have to remove the sign to move the airplane. The sign says “tight turn limits. Do not overturn. Damage will occur.” It still would scare me. I just hand push it everywhere, but that won’t work for you.

Yikes. Get up under the panel and look for burn marks on the buses?

As @PT20J said, is it the big red 60amp alternator breaker or the ~5amp alt field breaker?

Also, what about cooling airflow? It’s in the front. My 2 runs middle of the pack, but 1 is always low cht just because it’s in the airflow. Do you have the oil cooler below it or in back of the baffling ? What about baffling elsewhere?

Isn’t there an adjustment for how fast they come up? Someone here (@Shadrach) will know…

Cheapest turbocharger you’ll ever get!

Even if it’s a standard metal box like mine, I preheat the engine when it’s less than about 40f at night. That’s 7 months of the year for me. I still fly if it’s above zero… brrr!

If you live somewhere even a little cold, it’s nice to have some type of cell or wifi inside the hangar (with door closed) so you can control an engine heater remotely. Sucks to drive to the airport just to turn that on.

Yeah, mine is updated sw as well. Weird how it’s “not solvable” by sw. I’d think it would be pretty straightforward.

You would think, but the first thing JPI recommended to me was a snubber. I think it’s an Omega 8g but you better check sizing. Mine fixed my 930. Easy to install too.

Excellent! Yes, LOP is the way to go in many cases. Your CHT temps will be cooler (in general) too, so good for the long term engine health. Just be careful leaning as you climb. It’s fine (and I do it as well) but you need to keep an eye on your chts. If the OAT is very high or you are a little slow or maybe lean a little too much, it’s possible to get your chts hot real fast. Just don’t overdo a good thing…

Look at your 3rd adi?! in my airplane, if both G5s go TU, I gotta make sure my autopilot is engaged or engage it. That’s the nice thing about an STEC rate based.

Well the USAF calls the “new” turbine version the T-6 Texan II. You’d think it would be very draggy if needed, but the prop is full feathering and so it actually glides really well. Luckily full flaps is very effective and so is a slip.

As a reference, the Air Force made us put down emergency landing patterns between 500 feet to 1000 feet. You had to land within that range from the threshold to pass that maneuver in the T-6. as @PT20J said, I would try to make myself slightly high energy on final, then use full flaps or slip to nail it exactly where I wanted. Wind analysis is very important.

I do practice landing within the white bars because it’s a nice reference. In my mind I pretend the beginning of it is the threshold. However, you’re definitely right, if I’m in a real situation and glide down to a 5,000’+ runway, I’m not aiming for “brick one”. 1000’ down will be a perfect outcome and 2 feet short could be a disaster (lights? Mud? Threshold?). It’s worth trying to be precise though as a 2000’ runway or field requires landing pretty close to the beginning and not short.

Just as a data point, Jimmy uses Jewell.

unfortunately I’ve got a jpi transducer and connector. I will try cleaning it, but I don’t think it’s the same or at fault for my application.

For some of the EPs, a mid 80s J model poh is a good reference, but might not be exactly what you’re looking for. You might need to use several J poh’s and make up your own C/E/F EP section. personally, if enough altitude is available, I like to circle down from a high key when I practice. Somewhere around 2000’-2500’ over the numbers, clean, best glide (or faster). Then circle down to low key (which is your abeam position) at approx 1000’, ~100mph (best glide for me). Then you’ll just do your best commercial pilot power off 180. Gear and flaps and slip and s turn and pull the prop rpm out (this is very effective extending glide) as appropriate to not be short, but not land halfway down the runway. With practice and proper wind consideration, you can nail a 500’ target or better consistantly. some will say that having 2500’ over the numbers is unlikely, but you can practice to intercept the same circling pattern from anywhere - low key (abeam), base, final, etc.

Exactly. I am sometimes overly anal (or anxious?) but I’ve been known to wash my windscreen after a trip before putting on the cover if the airplane is to be left outside. I don’t want the cover rubbing in those bugs!

One thing to watch for, keep it as tight as possible when it’s on. Tight. It looks like good quality, but my bruces has zero wrinkles when on and doesn’t move in the wind at all. You don’t want it slowly rubbing.