Ragsf15e

The prop just twitches as I let off the key. The starter itself is brand new (OH) out of the box. Yes, the prop doesn’t move at all while the starter buzzes away, then barely twitches as I let off the key. Weird. To add to the story, I tried it about 3 times and was pretty quick between the last two (right after the prop twitches) and it caught, turned over and started (it starts very easily). I really don’t know what’s going on?

I was apparently hasty in saying it was solved or I jinxed myself. Here’s what happened trying our next trip. Apparently @kortopates trick to check the SA isn’t infallible (no blame intended). Our starter didn’t seem right and the SA seemed ok. This video is on the new starter though… https://photos.app.goo.gl/5etj5CVeoEaSCJwQ9 We will check the battery before pulling it.

Curious, what altitude did you notice the warmer CHTs? They used to publish an advance map showing fixed timing until about 5000’, but it’s not published anymore.

I’ve heard (but don’t have firsthand experience) that the secondary location for oil temp reads significantly different from the primary. You indicate that your primary and new probe read about the same? I thought it read that the secondary one which is in front of the engine (i think) Reads high but Im not positive. Anyway, my thought is - are we sure the original probe is working correctly or is that what you replaced when you said “replaced factory temp sensor”?

It’s hard to say with the old analog gauges, but if my oil got that hot, the JPI would’ve showed probably 5 to 7 psi or maybe more decrease from say 75 down into the mid 60s.

What does the pressure do as your temperature climbs up that high and then what does it do as the temperature comes back down? I would expect to see the pressure decreasing continuously as the temperature climbs that high. I would then expect to see it coming back up if you get the temperature Down during a decent. if the pressure isn’t moving in those directions, then the temperature reading is not good. What are your cylinder head temperatures doing while all this is going on?

whats the useful load? Looks like a great airplane!

The rectangular panel that drain comes out of is another indication that it’s a speed brake drain. That panel comes off and you can access the bottom of the cartridge.

I looked them up on Spruce. They are used on Cirrus and Columbias. Aero 300 by Newton.

Agree, it’s fuel.

I agree about the speed! They are mounted iaw the manufacturer instructions though. They are Newton aero 300 caps. Now whether or not they are approved? Dunno, but they are the same as the ones Brian Kendrick mounted on @Schllc ‘s airplane.

They appear to be the same as these…

Oh, did you see the final verdict above? I posted it about the same time you posted about the battery. Starters aren’t cheap either. In fact, they’re about twice as much as a battery. Thank God there was one sitting on the shelf here though!

They were the last long range tanks done before the stc was Sold to maxwells. Done by wet wingologist east (in conjunction with full strip/reseal), so Im pretty sure he knows the stc. Not sure why they are different.

I had heard about the battery as well, but it had just passed capacity test last month and I charged it prior to attempting to start for the trip last weekend on a battery minder, so I was pretty sure it was not the battery.

Edit - a bit hasty when I wrote this (below) so continue down the thread because you will find this was not the verdict. I thought it was. So here’s the update, and the verdict. Thankfully, my mechanic wanted to do more troubleshooting. Because the way it was acting really looked like the adapter. Big shout out to @kortopatesfor his screwdriver in the starter slot test on the adapter. It acted exactly like he said it would if if it was still good, so we troubleshot further. He hooked up my starter to 24 V after taking it off the engine and it spun fine, but it sounded just a little weird to him. Then he spun it by hand and said it didn’t feel right. It happens to be a Cirrus service center and they use the same starter for some of their engines. The shop had one on hand so he pulled it out. He spun it by hand and then spun mine and said yeah yours doesn’t sound right. We put our ear up to it, and you could hear some grinding noises inside the starter. He mounted the new starter on the engine. We pulled all the spark plugs and turned it over. It worked perfectly. So we just left that starter bolted on closed up the whole thing and I paid for a new starter and three hours of labor. The bill wasn’t fun considering the new starter, but it was way better than a starter adapter. This from the energizer starter, which is supposed to be pretty good. Paid the bill, walked outside, fired up the plane and taxied back to the hangar. Ahhhhh, all better.

We got the starter off and just did this test which it passed. It takes about 3/4 turn with a screwdriver and then it grabs solid and it turns itself back when we let go. Then my mechanic tested the starter and it turns freely and turns well with power applied. So now we are wondering which part is actually broken.

Interesting. My outer tanks have smaller, lockable caps (with a key). I’ll see if I have a picture… not the best photo but you get the idea…

Jeez, I thought mine was noisy with a +\- 1 or 2 amp wiggle, that looks not right.

I have a K as well. Last annual my IA told me to replace one of the newer blue flourosilicone O rings because it was a little loose. So I dutifully ordered new ones for both caps and went to work (supervised). Having done it before on my F, it only takes ~15minutes per cap, but lo and behold, the inner O ring on both caps was the old black kind?! The plane has been maintained before I bought it by big name MSCs but apparently they just changed the outer O ring?! Also, do you have long range tanks? I wonder about those caps. They feel a little flimsy but they’re supposed to be ok?

There’s also some “internet wisdom” that says a bad seal on the oil filler cap or dipstick can lead to this… I did put on a new oil filler cap seal as mine was noticeably loose, but that didn’t help. I have not changed the o ring on my dipstick.

Any way to tell from the symptoms of the prop just barely ticking to the side while the starter buzzes away if it’s time for the starter, adapter or both? I just dug through the paperwork and both were “overhauled” 220 hours/3 years ago.

I would do that with the starter… the adapter fits your other category though. Ouch.

Can we tell from the part number exactly what starter it is? The 8130 from last overhaul says “”TCM Starter”. Here’s the ssn of the adapter too… is there any better adapter to use or just get this one repaired/exchanged by a good shop? Starter - 646275-1 Adapter - 641348-A12

No, it’s one of the older heavy starters, but I do use Camguard and there’s a lot of debate on that! Yes, it’s a good bummer that it’s in my hangar and not far far away.