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Ragsf15e

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Everything posted by Ragsf15e

  1. You’ll get lots of advice on LOP and ROP. Plenty of other threads to read too. However, I’d caution you on just setting a fuel flow without knowing where you are ROP, Peak or LOP. Probably should be somewhere around 90ish ROP, 20 or more LOP (depending on altitude) or Peak maybe if you’re real high. It’s pretty difficult to detonate an IO360 at 6,500’, but possible, especially lower. It’s also just a bad habit to set mixture half hazardly when you’ve apparently got egt info from all 4 cylinders. 25ROP is not a great place to operate the engine for efficiency, speed or longevity. Im definitely not trying to sound like a jerk or condescending, just trying to make us all better... and you beat me too... I did very similar speed testing last weekend in my M20F. 90 ROP, 10.2gph, 145 kts, 10300’ density alt. 136 knots at same altitude 20LOP. Js are nice!
  2. I’m scheduled for beginning January install, I’ll ask about it. I knew of the limitation vaguely and asked when I first talked to them, but they insisted it had been resolved... Maybe they were just going to disconnect my GTX345 from the 430W as well? If that’s the “solution “, we’re gonna have problems...
  3. Well, I guess if it’s not in the checklist, that’s why “most” Pilots don’t use them. I agree you can add it to your own if you like, but that’s your own technique. Don’t be surprised if other people use different techniques. In other parking brake designs, it might be more important to check, more useful, and harder to leave engaged. However, our parking brake is merely holding most/some/all the pressure from your toes and letting you remove your feet from the pedals. If you don’t have anywhere to go (like outside the airplane- jumping it maybe?) then there’s no big reason to use it at all. If you do want to use it, that’s fine as well. Just put a second checklist item at the end of pretakeoff... parking brake, disengage!
  4. Generally I agree with following the checklist as written, and it does say to set PB before start, but not before runup/pre takeoff checks. In the taxi section it clearly says to disengage PB, but the pre takeoff section does not say to reengage. At least 1968 F.
  5. Interesting, seems to be shop interpretation. I have exactly the same setup (just getting the G5s) and my shop said it is good now....
  6. Momentary lapse like forgetting to release the parking brake for takeoff?
  7. I’ve taxiied with my PB locked before and it definitely didn’t take full power (like jumping chocks might). Wheels turned (heavy and slow). Took a while to notice. Took longer than runup area to takeoff position. I could see you forgetting it, taking off with it engaged and locking the wheels on landing at high speed/light weight. Blow both tires real quick. Don’t know why it wouldn’t disengage after though. BTW, I stopped using mine like most of these other folks. However, as someone who’s had their 65,000# aircraft roll away after shutting down, I would use it if I was on a hill or high wind without chocks!
  8. Yeah, but let me enjoy!
  9. Yeah, I did 2 last year, it hurt. Crow is apparently an expensive, acquired taste.
  10. After reading through the 1,069 threads this summer on hot starting my Io-360 and all the O-360 guys professing the superiority of starting a carb engine vs injected, I admit, I love this thread! I’m just sipping a beer, and enjoying discussions about all the techniques for starting (or burning up) an O-360, the battery, the starter, the whole airplane, etc instead of the same thing about the IO-360! I flew today in Northern Washington and it started right up!
  11. Hot as F$$k?? Try touching the outside of the red torpedo lights above your head!! You can cook with those things! There’s a thread about making them led too but it’s not a simple swap of bulb. My soldering might be worse than the hot hot lights. So my entire panel has led ring lights and everything stays bright and cool... except the burning torpedo lights!
  12. I guess I want mine to work just right too, but better it fails to allow retraction than always allowing it. You have the bypass so you can still get the gear up. I don’t, but my asss seems to work pretty good . I wouldn’t want to get in the habit of using the bypass every time. Whole point of asss or squat switches is to prevent gear retraction on the ground, it is weird that they kept switching back and forth between methods.
  13. Thankfully it’s not mine. That poor airplane is a bit rough. Came in running rough too. Took some work, but finally they turned over the engine while watching the valves with a borescope. The exhaust valves barely open. Cam is worn way down. Shot. But hey, now it’s all opened up and I can get pictures of all kinds of parts. No 201 windshield, so great access to the avionics too! I’m almost jealous!
  14. Got pictures of one in my ia shop today... this on a 76 F.
  15. My 68F with electric gear installed at the factory has the airspeed switch right behind the airspeed indicator. No squat switches at all. what has your gear been doing, not coming up as expected? What about the lights vs the floor window... is it retracting ok but the green light stays on? Has your airplane had the 20 to 1 gears installed instead of the original gears? What about the required gear gears (yeah, that’s what I said) inspection/lube?
  16. Dang, scary. Especially since I just finished annual and had my parking brake valve seals changed! Had a slow leak (drip on my left foot once in a while) for like 2 years. Fixed with kit from lasar, $10 for parts, 1 hr labor. You can bet I’m taking the wide runway for the next few flights!
  17. Ok, figured I could do that, just worried about slipping or some other way of screwing up perfectly good airplane. I may be a professional pilot, but I’m definitely not a Jr machinist... unfortunately, I’ve got enough tools and the willingness to be dangerous. Why the need for a diagram or jig to hit exactly 1.5”? Is that just to keep both sides exactly the same and keep the seat square? Thanks for the encouragement! And sorry to the OP for stealing his thread, yeah, you’ll fit fine.
  18. I’m 6’3” with 34” inseam and no issues with headroom. If you’re also big in the shoulders or middle, you get real cozy with your copilot and the trim wheel is a bit harder to get to. Maybe bump your headset on the torpedo lights once in a while getting in and out. Some depends on how your seat is upholstered. Honestly, I wish I had one more set of holes aft in the seat rails. My legs barely fit under the instrument panel with the seat locked in the aft set.
  19. Someone smarter than me be around soon, but maybe timing?
  20. I double checked the Cav website... J and up can get nonFiki TKS, but only Encore, 252, & long bodies can get the full fiki... pretty much exactly what KSMooniac said.
  21. No, sorry to mislead... no fiki Js! Just being dramatic. Now if I could just make my F Fiki...
  22. Also tough to find a J with Fiki for those of us in the frozen North, although many Os have it.
  23. Not that I know of. You found the finicky part though... getting it on and (more importantly in Texas) off requires some adjusting and tinkering of the flapper with the cowl off. Getting a medium heat setting is more a function of full heat directed down with the vent fins and then open the cabin vents a little to mix to the right temp. It ain’t as good as a modern car... but better than running my old truck with the heat full on and the windows open.
  24. Yeah, where’d you find that? Contintals website sent me to avisell which required an account that I don’t have. Yeah, that’s them, thanks!
  25. So true... but maybe it’ll help bring down prices?!
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