mooniac15u

Yes, it was a Rocket conversion. Here's the full NTSB narrative with additional info: http://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20001211X10119&ntsbno=LAX98FA154&akey=1

Here's Don's write-up on the subject: http://donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Fluctuating%20Ammeters/Fluctuating%20Ammeters.htm

Here's an M20K that broke up due to flutter. It sounds like the folks at Mooney predicted the onset of flutter to occur at 241 knots. http://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=36780

In the J the engine gauge cluster has a common power wire and each gauge grounds through its sensor. If only the engine gauges are fluctuating it could be an engine ground problem. Have you checked the engine ground strap? If the fuel gauges are also reading wrong then it could be a grounding problem back at the battery.

There's a big difference between being engaged in the maintenance and spending hours of your own time drilling rivets to replace a piano hinge on the gear door. I have a background in science and engineering. I have a good understanding of the systems. I check over any work that gets done. I just prefer to pay an experienced professional to do the work. This is not an all or nothing deal. Another thing to consider is that a potential buyer may not share your enthusiasm for owner maintenance. Many buyers would probably like to see a good history of professional service in the log books.

Is there a CFI in your area that could go with you to pick it up? Air Mods in Trenton has CFIs with Mooney experience.

Some derive satisfaction from working on machines, others don't. Some value their time over saving a few bucks. Some make more per hour than they pay their mechanic. Lots of paths to happy ownership.

Do you really need any assistance multiplying the altitude difference by 2?

There is a lot of room between those extremes. I rarely did any work on my 63D but I had a very positive ownership experience. I didn't expect everything to be perfect but I value my free time and would rather spend it flying. I do some minor work on my J but I still generally prefer leaving it in the hands of a professional that I trust.

Instead of paying for those expensive diapers you can just buy some Sodium Polyacrylate and throw that in the ziploc. It's the super absorbent material inside diapers. It can absorb several hundred times it's own weight in water so you don't need much. You can get a whole pound for $20. That should last your whole life. http://www.onlinesciencemall.com/sodium-polyacrylate-super-absorbent-polymer-1-pound.html I would recommend trying it out on the ground first to figure out how much you need in the ziplock bag.

http://mooneyspace.com/user/8591-jacobwall/

According to the version information in the App Store it hasn't been updated since 2009. I'm surprised it has worked this long.

I didn't realize you were at OSU. I'm just around the corner from you on Olentangy next to the Fawcett Center.

Have you tried one of these instead? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/liljohn.php?clickkey=22350

I had a J-bar for 8 years. It was fine but I can't say that I miss it.

Do all F owners have J-envy?

It's about 950lbs. Why do you ask?

That's why I upgraded to a J. I needed room for all those hats that AOPA keeps sending me.

My 63D didn't have a hat rack. I'm guessing his doesn't either.

My 63D was zinc chromated.

Tigertrout, As pilots we should always be assessing, and seeking to minimize, risk. Using a Mooney for primary flight training is increasing your risk. How much? That depends somewhat on the individual but there is a reason that insurance quotes are high for a student pilot in a complex aircraft. Insurance companies only care about the level of risk and the statistics say that you would be at a higher risk in a Mooney than in a trainer. It is good to hear the success stories of those on Mooneyspace who transitioned with low hours. Just don't fall into the trap of confirmation bias. Don't convince yourself it will be ok just because it worked out for some others. Do your own serious risk assessment and determine if you are ready to accept the additional risk.

That might be a bit of an overstatement. According to the CAR 3 certification requirements for takeoff performance (3.84): (c ) The distance so obtained, the type of surface from which made, and the pertinent information with respect to the cowl flap position, the use of flight-path control devices and landing gear retraction system shall be entered in the Airplane Flight Manual. The take-off shall be made in such a manner that its reproduction shall not require an exceptional degree of skill on the part of the pilot or exceptionally favorable conditions.

Some older Mooneys have had their gauge clusters replaced with Mitchell gauges. If you went that route you could probably customize the layout into a row instead of the square six-pack.

Is there some evidence that the spalling is initiated by corrosion or is that just presumed? Your next statement suggests friction is the issue.

I'm confused. If he didn't buy a tug from you how could you refund half his money or not accept a return?