Yetti

FIFI

The EMP will take out every integrated circuit that has not been hardened. The good news is your engine will keep running due to the 1950s technology.

learned something this weekend that the p leads need to shielded. The shield at the ferrule will become un soldered. Some people will do a work around and run another ground wire from the shield to another screw.

But what about the drag created by the open hole on the wing? Not to mention all the water going up into the wing.

My wife got one of those vinyl printers... I think the first thing I am going to make is Red "Danger Jet Blast" for the stall vane and yellow and black "Rescue" arrows for the Starboard side

338 is the larger size for the cap A bit of Jet Lube after some emery cloth to clean things up. Should also get a couple of new cotter pins. If it is the first time you are doing them, it may be that the certified mechanic used the wrong size cotter pin. Some may say a stainless cotter pin it possibly better for the type of liquid environment they are going in. You are inspecting them every time you fly... right.

PM me an address I have a bunch

lots of shark bite fittings that make it come apart. Assemble in the wing

Don Maxwell article... says permetex 2 for screw leaks

Ok stripper expensive. Got it. So $100.00 and you are in business tank and pump. I am all for building stuff but cheap single use Chinese tools are good too. You can spend that much on welding rods these days. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gallon-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html

A new Lycoming wide deck HO from Air Power is right at 2 AMU. couple hundred less for this engine

It looks like your tank that you are building is about 33 gallons. Why would you not just fill up the tank with stripper let sit and then drain? use the pump to repeat this each time removing more of the goup through a series of screens. To be fancy about this get an extra bottom panel and install a fitting such that you can pump it up and then drain.

One thing I was taught whenever you are sitting keep the RPMs between 1100 and 1200

poly tank at Tractor Supply

Part number 33 Roll Pin is the answer. Not sure how to get to it. Does the panel just slide over the lever?

Then there is the Insurance which really drives things. Will insurance be higher for those flying on a DL? When you first get a Mooney, the FAA says you can fly it, the insurance company says you need certain number of hours in it

or should the driving laws be tougher? I think I have to have a Class B to drive my dad's big ole bus RV. I happen to have a class A. but because I am limited to Texas, I don't need a medical. Texas is a big state, I am fine with that $75 for a medical a couple of weeks ago. Had to cough and pass the peripheral vision test, which I did not have to the first two times. I think it was $120 in Houston. If you want to fly to College Station probably get a crew car from Easterwood, I can give you a name. And since they are both DOT agencies. How about one medical test that covers both.aero and driving.

Question on the reclining rear seat handles on the side panels. How do you remove them? Screw removed, forgot to check for the 70s style clip behind the lever, is that what I am missing or are they just supposed to pull off?

When my DPE handed me my license he said "Don't get any blood on it" He is 80 flight engineer on a bomber in WWII and a test pilot for Navion. I started having fun on the check ride when he said "look at all those poor people down there, they don't get to fly today"

I do a lot of process work to pay for my flying. I think the FAA ADM process is flawed because they are looking at it from an accident investigation after the fact has occurred. They teach the accident chain all the way through to auguring in. Perceive Perform Process will keep you going until you are a NTSB report. There should be a Stop in the process. And there should be a process to learn how to stop. I have probably read more than a 1000 NTSB reports during training. Most all of them could have been prevented if the pilot had stopped. That may include putting it on the ground and evaluating why you are in the air. From day one in our training we learn that time is money and the Hobbs tells us that. I think there were more than a few times where I told the CFII that we are just going to sit here for a few minutes. A form of get there itus is taught to us in training. For me some of the signs to stop are: The weather "should" start looking more like I planned for it to be Any time you say "We should be able to make _______" If _____ and ______ happen then we will make it Also being able to dynamically set minimums and then adhere to them. We need 2000 feet for that area. Weather stations are reporting 1600. We need to set it down and reevaluate all the options prior to continuing. There are 1000s of decisions you are making while flying a plane being able to stop the overload is also important. Some of this is taught as we learn the skill of flying and comes out as that "pilot stuff" When a gust blows you off center line and now you are looking at grass 10 feet above the ground, you just need pilot stuff to cram and level and fly the plane. The one accident report that I read about a Mooney CFIT in Colorado keeps an image in my mind. I went to google earth and found you could still see the outline of the plane just below the ridge top. I am sure the guy was thinking "I should have just enough to clear it" The other two are the family that was killed around Bryan Texas as they were trying to cross a front line and the charter pilot with the Cessna 400 that tried to fly through the front and spun it in around East Texas. What was crazy about that is he could have flown around the tail of the front and probably only added 45 minutes to his flight.

Since it broke along the weld. Bad weld. Too much heat while welding. Vibration just finished the job.

What happened to the guy trying to get the Odyssey battery (AGM type battery) approved for Mooneys I have an Odyssey in my motorcycle that has been going strong for good while

This is a pretty good article for the AGM. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/hrdp-1009-how-to-charge-a-agm-battery/ The Gill is a Sealed Lead Acid. Regular car chargers are pretty good at killing SLA batteries. What I have found is the little wall warts at 12volt DC are pretty good at maintaining motorcycle batteries and SLA batteries. Some people put them on a household timer. If you think about what is coming out of your alternator or generator and replicate that.

Google Fu says http://www.monticellofc.org/aircraft/Mooney%20M20%20Series%20S-MM%201980.pdf