Yetti

And you can relabel the Landing light button to "Guns".

Unless your yokes have been upgraded you also have a switch on the forefinger on the left side on the back of the yoke that you can push that does the same thing. Yours has an electric dump valve behind the panel that is activated when the switch is closed and a ground path is created. For the OP. Never turn mine off in the pattern or otherwise. What you do want to do is trim and trim some more. Then there really is no fighting it. beside it makes unusual attitude very easy if it is on. Just pull or add power depending on nose up or down and let the PC do the rest. I think I took my hands off the yoke to the annoyance of the instructor.

For the tubing. Check for leaks around windows. Inspect the back side of the tubing at all joints. If no evidence of rust. then it is an SB not an AD. The AD list walk through should be looked at very closely....

Not sure who needs to hear this, so I will leave it here for next time I need it.

Mark Johnson at Dry Creek. https://themooneyflyer.com/cfi.html

Not if you pull it back to 1100-1200 at start. Engines need air, fuel and spark to run.

Learn to land in something other than a Mooney. Then transition to the Mooney.

You have completed the test. You used your training to create the good outcome. We all hope we will do as well when our test time comes.

Gravity Vortex

but you do want to make sure the ground strap to the engine is in place and the connections are shiny for everything to work properly

correct

Well first off the Engine is hung with 4 rubber mounts. there should be a ground strap from engine to firewall on the co pilot side. Some panels are mounted with rubber mounts. There is a square stiffener that could be threaded where the Com relay is on the copilot side above the intake vent. If you have Com Access panels still this will make it easier. There are also cromoly tubes behind the panel. If your battery is in the back it is probably grounded to the aluminum skin.

Do a leakdown test on the mechanical fuel pump

For the center punch to be effective it is supposed to be used in a corner of the window. They make saws or a standard battery sawzall will work for the laminated glass. https://www.allhandsfire.com/Glass-Master

As far as failure there are batteries on each screen you install and then a battery in the D10A which is your back up should the HDX go inop.

I think you will find that they suggest one of the screen is turned on by the Master switch so you have engine instruments when engine starts. Then the other screen(s) can come on with the Com Master. The EMS box and the other things on the DB9 network are supplied with 5v from the Screen. So you will want to make sure the 5v going to the Engine bay comes from the screen that is turned on with the master.

Dynon supplies the ARINC interface for connecting a certified IFR navigation source. It looks like the 375 is a certified IFR source. I would go along those lines. You may find that the data format for the 375 is the same as a 430W. I would also send a note to Dynon and see if there are plans to add it to the list.

Ground completed via microswitch on the bowden cable

It's how Lycomigs mark their spot.

@GeeBee likes ducting

Aerormotors does both Dukes and Weldons. They will redo the Dukes such that they can run continuously like a Weldon.

That's not original grease. Mine had original grease on it and it had dried to a brownish clear gunk. So mine had never been cleaned. Tooth brush to clean. That is at least 10 years of dirt off a grass strip. No I don't think it is called out on the Annual Inspection.

I don't believe in right of way. I believe in not bending metal. Whatever I need to do to accomplish that goal, doing extra circles, slowing down etc is, learning to merge onto a freeway. IT's all good.

Smoke test your intake tubes.

One thing you can get good at is cutting a slot with a Dremel cutting wheel then use a flat blade. Or go diamond tip and "drill it out" new Snap on screw drivers grip phillips head well.