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Everything posted by Yetti
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Never have done ACF, Never will. Adds weight and creates a big mess. We check the spar and the other corrosion points each year.
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So over the weekend I thought if one plug was cracked. Maybe I should check them all. These are the REM37BY. They have the longer nose that were put in because one of the cylinders was a bit oily. Of the other three 1 had part of the insulator cracked away. One had a hairline crack on the insulator and the other I could not find an issue. So I put 3 new in and will have to contact Champion. The log books are at the IA, so not sure when these were put into service.
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On my third piece of wire for the alternator tensioning bolt I knew it was time to quit.
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Alternator mounting bolts were loose. - tigtened strobe light one side was out - Replaced with AeroLEDs - $1000.00 Have old ones for sale Compression on number 1 was wonky/leaking would sometimes come up. Staked, no bueno. Tossed valve into cylinder and reamed with .4995 ream. Used grabby things through spark plug hole and top of cylinder and screw driver through bottom spark hole to get valve back in. found cracked insulator of bottom plug. Replaced. Retested compression and passed with 78. Greased landing gear Washed engine down with mineral spirits. Replaced fancy ELT battery $275.00 Emergency gear test. Lubed all pivots with Triflow Pitot/static test passed on Dynon. May have leaky legacy ASI
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I rebuilt the wires to the alternator about 6 years ago. I had a voltage failure last year. I replaced the brushes in the alternator as a first step. Then replaced the voltage regulator and solved the voltage issue. Best I can tell the brushes and alternator are from 1974. Won't worry about that for a good while.
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at annual. One of the valves was not closing all the way. Which resulted in hammering out of the exhaust valve. and then reaming the crud out of the guide with a .4995 ream. We pulled the Champion BY plug (longer plug for oil fouling.) half the insulator for the electrode was gone. These plugs were replaced about 4-5 years ago so same time frame. Excited to fire the engine up and see how she runs. There was a tiny bit of morning sickness for a quick period of time.
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If you will note the F is listed on the certification schedule. "Mooney M20 Exact submodels and serial number ranges are TBD and subject to change. Dynon's M20J demonstrator aircraft represents “mid-body” M20F-M20K airplanes, and models within this group are the most likely to be approved in this project. The M20-M20E “short-body” airplanes are similar; it may be possible to approve some of these in this project as well. This project is not likely to include an approval for “long-body” M20L-M20V airplanes." Dynon tried going through Alaska but it still goes through Seattle for the Baron.
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This is all on the FAA. Their miss on the Boeing is what gummed up the works. Basically the paperwork for Dynon sits on the desk for months at time waiting for the guy to sign off. People have tried several ways around the Seattle guy. But all the Autopilot stuff goes through there. The Baron is done. So maybe the Mooney will get it's way through. For those that ask, the Autopilot software is already in the Skyview screens/computer. Along with the D10A has the autopilot software. It is just a matter of hooking up the servos and configuring the autopilot. Funny enough when they sell you the system the STC for the Autopilot is included as part of the whole system, so the plane is kind of already STCed for the Autopilot.
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The list of planes I don't fit in is long. all the Piper 4 seaters. Some of the early Bonanzas. The Cessna 172 I could fly, but with my head up so high my view was really limited. It's was amazing how much better my visibility is in the Mooney over the 172
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As long as you are just tall, you will be fine. I have set in several and found that sometimes when the seats are rebuilt some get more foam put in the seat so they sit a bit taller. There is a mod to drill another couple holes in the rail to move the seat back. I found that kneeling on the passenger seat spin around to get in. Then I have started exiting to the front of the wing between the door and the leading edge is a bit more graceful getting out. I carry about 3 pillows for passengers
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Is cruising at lower power bad for the engine?
Yetti replied to RescueMunchkin's topic in General Mooney Talk
I have run my A1A 24/24 for the 6 years that I owned it. It always gets 79 or 80 on the compression tests. It is fun to do 21/21 for a bit as the plane feels completely different but this is the more like the landing speed and teaches you how it feels when landing. -
some bit of info. Cessna also used this actuator as a flap actuator. I never figured out the cross reference number. I have been through the disconnect gears and they are well made. The biggest thing that would fail would be the motor and probably could be fixed with a set of brushes. It's basically a side window motor and could probably find it on an old ford.
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Just curious is this an issue on say like an Ovation?
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In the older models ie 75 F The avonics switch Turns the relay off when energized. ie applies power to the relay which uses opens the NC circuit. This is the fail safe if the relay fails, the avionics will still stay powered. The key switch to starter solenoid positive wire also goes to the avionics relay and applies power, which kills the avionics by opening the NC relay.
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I have center drills. It has more to do with centering in the chuck and the rod not staying square to the chuck for the part that is not in the chuck. I found it better to cut to length on table saw and then put in a jig, then drill.
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I found that putting a hole in the exact middle of the rod to be quite challenging. The plastic likes to grab the bit and take it off center. I ended up with a square jig in a vise to hold the round rod. I have kind of moved on and now building a 300 gallon water tank from HDPE sheets for a HMMWV fire truck.
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yes. I guess I should check to see how they are wearing. Have not thought about it, so must be ok
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How do you close off the cooling air to the avionics bay?
Yetti replied to AndreiC's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I think that is poorly worded. My F has louvered vent on the Left side of the skin near the baggage compartment. There is not a vent in the inside sidewall panel in the baggage compartment. So airflow would between the sidewall and the skin of the plane. Thus creating airflow behind the panel from the right vent with the tube attached. -
It's a decision process between you and your IA. Find out what they want.
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And the FAA and DOT are under the same US government department. But can I use my FAA medical for a DOT medical for a CDL. NO.
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I used sheet aluminum covered with cow hides. The pattern for the alum was the cardboard stuff covered in moss Green carpet. I over cut the alum by an inch and then bent the edge over. This gave them some stiffness. Used contact cement to glue the leather down to. https://leatherhidestore.com/ The Mooney is Certed under CAR3. The burn test is a AC (not regulatory). I did my own burn test following the AC. used the same piece of leather for all three tests and it did not burn through. You are supposed to use a new piece for each test. There are several weights of leather.
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yep, but he may have popped one in the overvoltage state. Probably not, but you are in there.
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Get the plug that matches. I think I had the same question on a 75 F model. The matching plug will be plug and play. My Regulator is outside the cabin on the firewall. While you are in there you might want to check for two black inline fuses. Check the fuses.
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The ground is important to all the things in that part of the panel. It could be they removed the ground.
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I have used https://www.meguiars.com/node/20783 on everything from boat plexigas to HMMWV plastic windows. Use it for daily cleaning of airplane windows. Think overtime it will get the plastic windows better and better