Yetti

Most likely you have a ground not attached firmly. Start with the battery and then check the grounding strap that should be on the passenger side from engine to the firewall. What your comms/EMS is grounded to is the most suspect.

Is your oil cooler in the front or back? What I have noticed is that New Oil stays in the crankcase longer than older oil. I use W100 cause I live in the south.

lycomings like to mark their spot

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don't disparage my grandfather. "Right tool for the job" In other news google searches for Stilson Wrench are up by 40

Stilson wrench. Last fitting I had to get out was I used a dremel to cut a slot for a big screw driver to get them out. Someone ran the air tank drains on the LMTV into a tree. The final way is a diamond bit on a dremel tool and take it out a little at a time after you snap it off with the Stilson Wrench.

LOL nailed it. Don't want to be able to read them in a couple years

Nice If you had one of those ink serial number machines. I always say if it is as good or better than factory then How would they know.

On my 75F there is a brake on the back of the motor that prevents the motor from chattering. So I think this is a known issue with a fix. The fourth lug on the Ford 8N tractor solenoid releases the brake when the motor puts the gear down. Sometimes the contacts for the brake become unstaked in the motor.

not sure about scud running, but more challenging weather at the same level he was flying at. Misty rainy as the day transitions to night can be a big challenge. It's almost better for it to be night vs the transition. I had this happen a couple weeks ago. I got "lost" in the dark during touch down. Found the runway a little harder than I wanted to.

I should probably figure out how many hours are on them and start the questioning process. It just does not seem that ceramic bouncing around in the cylinder seems like a good idea.

When where the plugs purchased? try vincebechtel@tempestplus.com or gehrlich@aeroaccessories.com Since that time I have 3 of 4 Champion BY plugs with cracked insulators that are sitting on a table waiting on me to do something with.

Think you will find one of these will fit. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Cabinet-Hardware-Cabinet-Accessories-Cabinet-Locks/N-5yc1vZc865

Could also be the side window leaking along with the vent window.

Ad says it was sold.

So I looked into this. They are now printing with silicone, which would be muy bueno. Not sure if there is a service that will print in silicone yet. I did check into buying the slicone printer. I saved my old duct for this reason.

Think maintainers do alot of putting it back they way they found it and not know how it was supposed to be. But then what maintainer thought that zip ties through a clamp was the right way to go. I hate doing Adel clamps, but found that using Hemostats help. Hemostats also may safety wire a bit easier

You make wire bundles for support. and then have the bundles go to the middle of the engine (as close a possible to the middle) to transition to the firewall. That way when there is the least amount of movement. The about 3 small tywraps should do the job to put those 2 wires together. also there is supposed to be a large Adel clamp around the orange heater hose that ties to the lug on the end of the footwell.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2226961823/user/100001679114403

That's a halagon bulb. You can get them at HomeDepot. Make sure it is 12volts. They have 120 and 12V. take the bulb and make sure the pin spacing is the same. You may be able to find a ceramic socket in a lamp they sell or order some off amazon. First step would take a VOM sick the leads in the pin sockets and wiggle to make sure the wire is good. See the rust on the rivet on the socket. Probably the same with the light pin contacts.

On the factory you can use a pair of needle nose to gently tighten the nut. Since you are going to take it all off and redo the ring terminal, take a wire brush and make the brass contacts all shiny.

#3 has the worst air flow. That is why it will read hotter. The piggy back one is not going to be the same as direct probes. Too many environmental variable. The Dynon CHT probes use a screw in adapter and then a twist lock on the thermocouple. The Ring terminal crimp on the stock probe is yucky. Redo it with these from Home depot. a new ring terminal and some heat shrink for support. All that stuff has 100mph wind blowing past it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Crimping-and-Cutting-Tool-for-Connectors-1005SEN/100352095 Use crimp slot with the bump in it. All those wires should not just be hanging and flapping in the wind. and it should not be rubbing on the engine. That fuel line should have fire sleeve on it. Or replace with the brown hose.

I had the #3 CHT start showing hot. So I crimped the spade connectors CHT and EGT with a pair of Kliens ie good crimpers. Surprising little corrosion on small low voltage stuff will cause problems. Switched the spark plugs between 3 and 1. Seems to have cleared up the issues.

I removed a couple of antennas and such and was all excited to make some patches and rivet them in. The Grumpy IA said "Why don't you just put the bolts back in the holes" It made lots of sense I just walked off dejected and did the work.

If you calculate the point at which the propeller tips go supersonic, the Mooney is already pretty close. You don't want your tips supersonic.