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Everything posted by nfonville

  1. After a PM, I would retract my Broadies recommendation.
  2. @gsxrpilot If your speaking from experience, please provide more details. I'm in and out of FTW on a regular basis. If there is a reason they are to be avoided, I would like to know in case I have an issue when on field. I addition to Maxwell and SWTA, there is Brian Kendrick at San Marcos which did my last annual.
  3. Broadie's aircraft at FTW is a Mooney Service Center. I have used them for several things in the past but not recently. I bought my first aircraft 20+ years ago which was a 1978 C Model from the late Mr. Broadie. Worth a call... You can't go wrong with Maxwell if the seller will get the plane there.
  4. I used Jerry Johnson out of KAFW for my transition training. I have flown with him for 20 years since I bought my first C-model Mooney. He is another good option if he is available. His son Mark is in the Houston area and would be another great option.
  5. I have had my bravo about 18 months and 200 hours. I figure on 22 gal the first hour and 18 gph there after. I run 29"/2400/1580 to 1600TIT ROP. I personally have flown 4.2 hours and put in right at 80 gallons.
  6. I'm needing a waterproof PLB. I know this topic has been discussed before but I can't find the info I have seen in the past. Technology changes quickly. So if I'm buying today which one would you buy? Thanks, Neil
  7. My shadin shows between 28 and 29 gph.
  8. Lycoming TIO540 in the Bravo or at least in mine.
  9. I may be there as well. On my calendar.
  10. When I flew last friday, the heat was good and strong. Opened and closed valve multiple times and no issue. The temperature was +5 C. I'm thinking something froze up when I hit the light rim ice. Flying tomorrow at a higher altitude and it will be colder so I'll test some more.
  11. I have the sentry ADSB device with CO meter. No evidence of a leak. Experienced a CO issue in a previous plane and extra just cautious. The amount of air flow did not change just no warm air from the vents. I'll be flying it Friday and test again.
  12. Last week I flew from the DFW area to Denver Centennial. The temperature at 8-10k was between -10 and -15C. I pulled the heater on for a while and it worked fine blowing both hot air on the lower vent and defrost. I'm kinda scared of heaters to due the age of my exhaust even though it's been maintained, inspected, etc. So I turned it off. Got into a slight rime icing. Climbed up 2K and icing quit. Went to use the heater again and it did not blow hot air. Did water/ice get somewhere it should not have been and something needs repairing? Have others seen this before? Thoughts?
  13. I put in 9 qts at oil change and let it go down to 7 qts with about 8 hours of flight. Add 1qt. Mine will throw anything over 8 on the belly.
  14. They timed the left mag at reinstallation and then retimed the right mag. Flew from DFW area to Lakeland FLA today and all seems good.
  15. I got the plane back yesterday. They replaced the capacitor kit (PN: K3984) on the left and retimed the right. The crimp on connector broke off on the old one. Ran like a champ. Only cost $680 to get it out of the shop. Glad I did not have to buy a new mag. Oh well, now ready for the PPP in LAL this weekend. Mooney on folks!
  16. This mag has 113.2 hours and was new in Jan 2018. This kind of failure is really unacceptable. This will cost me $1500 before it's all done after paying the shop and return trip for the plane. $15 per hour times 2 for mag reserve seems kinda high....
  17. Shop called and said the problem is a broke capacitor wire. Replacing capacitor tomorrow and then hopefully ready to travel to Lakeland for PPP class. Good news it looks like a simple fix.
  18. Does anyone have the part number for the Left mag?
  19. So I removed the p-leads from both mags and tested the wiring. All appears to be correct and work as expected. I guess in the end it will be 100 hour failure of the left mag. Thanks for the input from everyone.
  20. I have been thinking through what I learned last night and maybe I'm now confused. Symptoms: Plane runs rough. Turn mag switch to L and engine dies. Action taken: Remove Left P-lead. Plane very hard to start and also dies if mag switch in L position. Action taken: Replace Left P-lead, remove Right P lead. Plane starts normally. Engine runs in all switch positions including "Off". Question is: With the right p lead off are both mags functional? During a run up, putting the switch in the R or Off position should kill the Left mag and get a RPM drop? Also, If I don't get a mag drop does that mean the Left mag is really bad? Forget legalities of this question: Assuming I get a mag drop, with the current configuration are both mags operating and ok to fly to home base 1.5 hours away?
  21. OK update: turns out the right mag p lead is shorted or the ignition switch is bad. Removed the P lead from the right mag and everything runs normal just won't shut off in the "Off" position. Learned that it would not start should the left mag been bad according to the mechanic. I did not look for the EGT spike in flight but will pull JPI data and look for it. CHT and EGT numbers were not out of normal range but could have been higher and just not noticed.
  22. I have never heard this so it's good to know. DMax replaced the second one right after I have the one done in Knoxville. I wish he would have said something about the failure rate because I would have waited for the overhaul and not done a new replacement.
  23. How does one do a quick test of that?
  24. Last February, I had a mag cause the engine to run rough and was stranded in Knoxville. Found that they had 650+ hours since overhaul. Easiest option was replacement. Then replaced the other at home a few days later. So two new mags about 150 hours ago. Today, I'm stranded in Lubbock TX with a dead mag. Turn the switch to L and engine dies. Turn to R and runs ok. The mag check was good on the ground when I departed. At 5000 or so, plane shook and begin to vibrate. Turned to L and it was dead. Back to both and returned to airport. Besides a bad ignition switch or mag, what else could it be? Thanks...