Andy95W

Dank je wel!

The “National Coverage” was simply because it was a slow news week and the 24 hour news outlets had to find something to fill the time (otherwise they couldn’t sell advertising.). Now with other stories to report on and cloudy skies, this is going to go away. It’ll be interesting to see what remains after the stories are gone.

I’m 59. My answer is No. Comparing my non-turbo M20C to a non-turbo Cardinal RG- my airplane is faster, flies better, and is less expensive to buy and maintain. The Cardinal is a nice, good looking airplane. But everything is a trade off.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/iclothwipes10.php

All that junk on the battery box was an external power plug that was added in the 1990s. It wasn’t wired correctly and I removed it the first time I took out the battery box (ironically, to close up gaps in my doghouse behind the left upper engine mount).

That’s a lot of not easy work. Yes, I would connect the hose to the box, and then make sure the bottom hose to the cowl flap area is also connected. That will keep the air flowing like it should (plus add to battery cooling). Looking forward to more updates!

It is. The filler neck is just plastic, so if you crank down the safety wire it’ll break off the ear with the safety wire hole. So the tube will loosen 1/4” and get stopped by the safety wire- which then causes more wear to the ear. So the best thing is for people to simply not over tighten the dipstick. There’s no reason to do so, it won’t come out in flight, and even if it did the oil still couldn’t get out.

That tube is supposed to be connected to the battery box with a rubber hose attached to a fitting. Your battery box fitting might be missing. The original idea was to pressurize the battery box in order to ventilate corrosive battery acid fumes out the tube at the bottom drain through another rubber tube to the cowl flap area. Not so important nowadays with sealed batteries, but should still be connected for cooling.

Don nailed it- your engine (#2 cylinder, specifically) is showing classic signs of an exhaust valve just starting to stick. It won’t get better, Marvel Mystery Oil might help but doubtful. The only real cure is to ream the exhaust valve guide IAW the Service Bulletin. If it’s not done, it will get worse. Eventually it will stick the valve so badly there’s a good chance it’ll bend the pushrod and the shroud. At that point, you’ll need a cylinder overhaul. The EGTs spiking on a single magneto is completely normal. That happens because with only one spark plug firing, not all the fuel is burned in the cylinder. Some of it is still burning during the exhaust stroke so the EGT probes show the increase.

That’s different from my FSDO’s guidance during IA seminars. Not a big deal, I bet a lot of guys don’t do it, but they said to do it because 337s are the only “eternal” record of the aircraft and it’s Type Certificate alterations. (ie., if the logbooks were destroyed or lost.)

The reason the Mooney has the push to start is so that you can engage the shower of sparks without engaging the electric starter. Without that feature, you would not be able to hand prop the engine.

Mine isn’t like that. The orange baffle seal material could be extended down to seal in that gap nicely and then secured with a pop rivet at the bottom. You’ll find some creative solutions to sealing all the holes. Big pain, but it’s worth it in the long run. Good luck, keep us posted as you continue the progress!

Lead in the fuel, plus normal carbon deposits.

If you don’t like it, why do you bother reading or posting here?