Andy95W

Reiff used to have an “upgrade” version that was only the cylinder bands to add to a preexisting oil sump installation. Might be worth a call to Reiff.

I’d call Don Maxwell’s shop first and describe the problem. They’ve been around long enough to have probably dealt with this before. After that, I’d call LASAR. The good news is that it’s not a huge issue. When you send it out, you may as well have them do the work required by the Dukes gear AD and restart the clock on that as well (unless it was just done very recently.)

My ‘67 M20C had an issue where the landing gear preloads were being released by the Dukes motor. It is supposed to prevent rotation of the motor shaft. Mine was releasing slightly when the gear was down, and also my gear was sagging slightly when it was retracted. It usually wasn’t enough to break contact on the up or down limit switch. It’s not really a dynamic brake but more like a clutch that holds the motor shaft stationary. I took it down to Ronnie at Dugosh (this was 30 years ago) and he disassembled the Dukes motor and installed two standard -10 washers, one on each post. The problem he said was that the springs that hold that clutch stationary get weak over time. The -10 washers are used as shims to increase the spring pressure. Ronnie was sure to explain that this is only a temporary fix, the springs need to get replaced. Also: these memories are 30 years old and two airplanes ago and before I got my A&P license.

@Phil123- try the usual places for KA-134 overhaul like Sarasota Avionics, Gulf Coast Avionics, and Bevan ( @Jake@BevanAviation). I bet a good cleaning will probably fix 90% of your issues. Those audio panels are fairly bulletproof.

I never said that, Scott. I thought it looked like a nice airplane. Just curious about some of the instruments. And if it is a 711, that explains the CHT removal. All good questions to check the logbooks for answers.

Thats a really good question. The digital Oil pressure, and temperature might be TSO’ed. Same for the fuel levels. Amperage indications don’t even have a TSO, so that is kind of a “Meh” thing. The CHT is another matter. The EDM is not certified to replace a primary CHT, so that would need a Field Approval before I signed it off. Most A&P/IAs I know would agree, but I bet it just got a logbook entry. Odder still is the vacuum gauge and the indicator light for low vacuum installed in an airplane that doesn’t have any vacuum instruments or Brittain wing leveler. I couldn’t tell if the speed brakes were vacuum driven.

@Sabremech

Hmm. My M20C has the InterAv alternator conversion. I just had it overhauled for about $800. It was still working fine when I sent it in, I had assumed it was overhauled in 2005 when the previous owner overhauled the engine, but it wasn’t. It turns out it was installed in 1995 and hadn’t been overhauled since. It had about 5500 hours on it. I did replace the voltage regulator with a PlanePower just because they are digital and far, far superior to the one that came with the original kit. My advice to anyone with a generator that wants to change to an alternator- get a used InterAv, overhauled it, and install it with a PlanePower regulator.

I went on a tower tour in DTW about 25 years ago. Similar to GeeBee, the tower supe said that if you’re in line with a bunch of other airplanes and you’re cleared for the approach, please just land and don’t worry if you had a clearance. A few years later it happened to me and we landed without a landing clearance. The tower controller told us “turn right, contact ground, cleared to land.” Thank God for common sense.

That’s a really good article, thanks for posting. I was able to save it as a PDF, it’s a lot easier to read that way. Thanks, Don!

+1. Nicely stated, Dev.

You should re-read what GeeBee wrote. He said he stopped the airplane using accumulator brake pressure. The transport category airplanes I’ve flown had hydraulic accumulators which were good for at least a few applications, and certainly enough to engage the parking brake.

@JBlueSkys- Happy Thanksgiving to you! I forgot to mention, that’s with a blanket on the nose and foam in the cowling inlets. Enjoy, good luck!

I have the same system. I preheat if it’s less than about 35°. I do one hour if it’s about 32-35, two hours if it’s 20, 3 hours if it’s 10. Reiff says 3-5 hours, or 10-12 hours for “maximum heating”. I based my times from their chart: