TTaylor

Chris, Those are the part numbers for the new stringers. They go above the window and tie everything together. The 1/4" is very stiff to work with. It comes pre-curved, but there is still some flexing to fit the plane. Also, I don't think the extra weight is worth adding. The original is 1/8" so the 3/16" is already 50% thicker. If I was doing it again and on my own time I would use the 3/16" and route it to fit flush. I don't think it makes any difference in speed, but I tend to be a perfectionist. We were working in my A&P's shop in the middle of winter so we were trying to get it done quickly to free up space. I had a little help from those on MS, but did not know all the details ahead of time. Second time would be easier and I would know how to plan ahead for the steps involved. I did deviate from standard by using Dow Corning sealant in bronze to match the windows. Much easier to work with and much more modern material than the old two-part sealants.

I did a search on the old thread. Parts Left Side 340285-007 Right Side 340285-008. Plan ahead and get flush rivets on hand. I recommend Solar Gray 3/16" for the replacement windows (LP Aero). I put in 1/4", but I would not go that thick again.

1. You will need the stringer from the 1976 F for each side. 2. Remove the old windows. 3. Cut out the support between the windows. 4. Install the new stringers tying the three supports together. 5. Install the new windows. My photo album has some photos from the process.

Jake, Looks like a great opportunity. As a low time pilot learning to fly the plane should not be too hard. Take it slow and allow your knowledge and wisdom to grow together. The Mooney is a traveling machine and you will soon learn that you can cover great distances and weather systems in a few hours. Establish a mindset that you don't have to be someplace and sometimes you will need to pull out the credit card and fly commercial or drive to get someplace or get home. The mechanics of flying are straightforward, the wisdom and skill to avoid trouble take time. Enjoy the great gift.

I don't remember how many amps the fuel pump switch is. Hangar elves might see if one from eBay might work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maule-M5-235C-Fuel-Boost-Pump-Switch-P-N-20TC2-BA-10-RM/232369688016?hash=item361a500dd0:g:YXMAAOSwFqNZPt8T

New available but be ready to bend over : http://www.carbonbrush.com/klixon20TC.htm

I fly with a few old sectionals as back up. I put them in my tri-fold knee board. My plane also has the sectional pocket on the front of the seat. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/flightdesk.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtvPjBRDPARIsAJfZz0rrTB1hIK2imoJzpUsapA-E7lhRhk9773UuNZm2ND6Ri5Z6QZjfqdkaAjuXEALw_wcB

Should be fine. If you can, work with your A&P to let him/her know what you are doing. Weigh parts before and after if possible so there is not weight change issues. Almost any singe stage PU paint will work.

Spend the $10 and post it to the "For Sale" section.

We just had to have our bladders worked on. There was some smell of fuel in the cockpit. Our mechanic found several of the fittings were loose, allowing fuel to leak. He tightened up the connections, hopefully that will fix the issue.

We replaced the side windows that were blue/green with solar gray and I love it. The optics are crisp, but keeps the heat and UV down in the cockpit. It is not too dark to interfere with low light or night flight. 100% recommend it for window replacement. My glider had a canopy broken before I purchased it. I curse the "idiot" that put on a clear canopy.

When replacing the cable, do tear the entire system down and replace the grease. I had a system where the manual extension would not work several years ago. After removing the gearbox between the cable and the gear motor we found that the grease had turned solid and would not allow the manual extension to operate. Good idea to solvent clean it out and replace the grease during the process.

Electric Gear 20F: 1. Downwind; GUMPS, Gear down and green on the panel and green on the floor. 2. Base; Gear check, Check green on the panel and on the floor 3. Final; Gear check, Check green on the panel and on the floor 4. Short Final; Panic check, green on the panel and on the floor When I had the J-bar 20C, I physically pulled on the bar at each step to insure that the gear was down and bar was locked.

The only time a Lycoming Engine doesn't leak is when it has no oil . Continue to chase small leaks but you will likely never stop them all.

If it is typical Whelen pricing they will double it.

I found there are significant differences between the C and F, and may also be because of hydraulic flaps versus electric. With the 63 C, I found I was better with two pumps of flap (about half) on landing. With the 75 F with electric flaps, I found it was much better with full flaps but up-trim was critical to get it slowed down and not have too much force on the yoke at flare.

After "Two Years, Two Months, Too Long" in Minnesota we have been working at moving farther south with every move since then . Last stop will hopefully be Southern Utah. The only advantage of living in Minnesota is it makes everywhere else look better. When the weather gets bad here; we say it could be worse, we could be in Minnesota.

About five months of the year my cowl flaps stay closed, but this is the land of ice and snow .

The sensor can be off as much as 3 to 7% without calibration. Once calibrated, you will likely see within 1%. Just record fuel used and fuel bought over a period of time and you should be pretty close. Start with a full tank and end with one. If you want to do a test on only a few tanks be sure to fill the tanks carefully, let them sit for a time (15 minutes or so) and top. Also be sure the plane is sitting on the same slope. If the plane has bladders, they do take a little longer to fill and stabilize. Once you have numbers you can adjust the k value. It is always mentally nice to have more fuel than what the computer says you have, so most error on the conservative side while adjusting the k value.

The servo are usually near the battery in the aft fuselage. Access through the battery door behind the wing. It is normally a one servo system (the rudder and ailerons are slaved together with springs in early 1970's Mooney's) that approximates two axis.

I placed the manual in a .zip folder in the Downloads/Avionics section.

PathFinder M2A AutoPilots Ground Check and Flight View File PathFinder Autopilot docs Submitter TTaylor Submitted 12/14/2018 Category Avionics

Utah $120

The key to working with owners like this are establishing a relationship. It can take some time and slowly educating them on the reality of the situation for the aircraft. You also have to give them time to grieve the loss and be willing to move on. If you come across as a potential owner that will love their "baby" and take care of it you can often work a deal to bring one back to life.

You might trying AL polishing compound and then a good hard wax.