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The way most will get their candle snuffed out from their gut, major cause of death is MIs and strokes, by and LARGE the biggest factor there is being FAT Anyone who is above their target BMI I will laugh at if they talk about “safety” Frankly the Gov goes not keep you safe, rules don’t keep you safe, “safety” is much like the Easter bunny, it’s a made up thing for underdeveloped brains to feel happy about. If YOU want to add a CO YOU can add one, but you have zero say what I do, or anyone else does. Heck look at the majority cause of crashes, it’s PILOT error, ie the person just sucks at flying, guess we could have daddy gov say no one with under 3000tt and who doesn’t log at least 50hrs a month should be able to fly, that would make us “safer” no?

I had a vibration. Had the prop balanced. A month later started slinging prop oil. Took it to the propeller company for a reseal. The hub was cracked. Replacing the hub was going to be half the price of a new prop. After 62 years, I bought a new prop.

Hey all! Quick refresh on the topic… The O is in annual, needs ELT modernization. options are… 1) Artex 345 2) ACK E-04 3) Kannad Integra 4) want to have 406mhz, 121.5, and GPS data connected to it… - I believe the old one is an Artex. - there is a GDL52(?) mounted on the shelf in the tailcone. (GPS data for the older BK X-ponder) reusing old footprints would be nice if able. expecting to replace all of the 30yr old equipment. as usual… plane is 1kmi away from me, unable to look what’s there… expect Mooney standards for 1994… Thank you for the words of advice! Best regards, -a-

The whole engine mount was replaced back in 1979 to comply. I personally saw the gussets this past weekend during an oil change. Interestingly, my tail was owned by the Mooney chief engineer at the time (I forget his name without looking in the records) so it received top treatment.

Looking for any recommendations to shops anywhere in or around VA (NC, OH, PA, MD) for a GFC500 install. Preferably somewhere that has installed on Mooneys before. Thanks for any info.

FYI note the CWS lower left in pic… -Don

Panel! Labels next and flight test next week!

Panel is done! Had to get a bit creative on the pilot side defroster as we needed about a half inch more clearance but the shop took care of that! Labels next and flight test next week. Ap is already programmed!

Mouser said no longer made. Digikey says $474 but you may have to buy 10 of them with a 36 week lead time. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/honeywell-sensing-and-productivity-solutions/1CH6-1/25328001 also in the original post, the limit switch controls the actuator, if switch was not working, the motor would keep running and the gear would be in a spot of bother. Might have just had a loose ground on the warning light.

This can be a vocabulary expanding job . .

It’s a long shot, but maybe check to see that the reinforcing gussets from AD 75-09-08 were installed.

Here in AZ, nature preheats your oil, except in the dead of winter. Run up usually gets it hot in the winter.

Really it is pretty easy. Like anything once you do it once or see it done you'll go duh. Putting it back on is a little more just because of the belt. I would lube everything as moisture over time does tend to tighten things up. I had to replace one of my plastic lever with metal one, so if you have plastic don't yank it like an after prom.

@EricJ I swear, if that happens, I'm holding YOU responsible for giving them the idea!

The rear seat recliner on the M20F is less complicated that a bicycle brake. Removing the seat back entails pulling a spring loaded pin on one side and “rocking” the seat back away from the boss. The other side of the seat has a fixed pin and can simply be pulled away from its boss after the first side is disconnected. The long side of the lap belt will come out with the seat. I mean no offense when I say that given that the above was not obvious from simply looking at the mechanism, it might be a good idea to enlist the help of someone inclined towards mechanics. The set up is not complicated, but it can be a pain to reinstall because one must align the lap belt mount with the seat pin and the seat boss all while holding the seat pin in the retracted position. There is not a lot of room to work and it would be easier with three hands.

Checked and reporting facility was Kansas City center. So likely an entry error. But searching further discovered that there is an m20e same year as our d that shares the same serial number in the FAA registration records I understand that pre 1966 serial number assigned were not as specific ie year and model related and were just sequential. This raises a question about whether I need to take action with the FAA I know the data plate on our D is consistent with the registration on file. Looking at the pictures of the E it’s a nice looking plane and has a different tail number.

I live about an hour away from Pineville, LA. That airport is in a state of advanced decay. Location is only 5 miles or so from a class Delta airport in Alexandria, LA. The population and economic growth in that area seems to be moving toward Pineville and shrinking in Alexandria which is probably why you're reading about it. Pineville recently had the single runway closed for resurfacing. It took 6 months. Otherwise the rest of the airport property is abysmal at best. On the other hand, my home airport which is much more rural, much less traffic and has much less money, had our runway resurfaced in 2 weeks. We've gotten new lighting, VASI lights, and our T-hangars are $63/month. I think it's a reflection of the airport manager. -David

I’ve been the steward of airplanes in North Carolina, California, Missouri and now Tennessee. NC and CA were tiedowns for practically free back in the late 80’s. In MO I leased hangars ranging from $130/month for a ratty bare bones bare bulb gravel floor manual door t-hangar to $280 for a nice newer t-hangar with good lighting and electric door that included utilities. The land lease for my current hangar in TN is ~$165/month. The hangar itself and utilities are my responsibility. I’m happy to have use of it. Yes, you’re correct, location makes a difference and I’ve always been a stone’s throw from a recreation destination or a “major metropolitan area”, if that applies to Knoxville . I was surprised by how out of touch I am with rural airport economics and how relatively affordable they are. Had I broadened my search, my retirement location selection may have been swayed. I guess it’s never too late for a change.

Ahh, excellent, @1980Mooney found the threads that should help.

Yes, theres a thread here on MS. Let’s see if we can find it. The seat backs are pinned at the outside bottom if i recall and are pretty tight. The seat bottom at least on mine had a thin metal bar wrapped in the seat upholstery pulled underneath it and held by a sharp metal piece under the back of the seat that was sort of accessible from the baggage door.

I did consider that. A steel screw is stronger than one of those rivets.

is there a guide on removing the seats? Bolts? Pins? etc?

The mechanism is ~55 years old and wasn’t too robust to begin with. Youll need to remove the seats and the sidewall panels. The mechanism likely needs cleaning and lubed, but it should be obvious with that opened up. I did this to my F once. It frustrating getting the rear seats in and out but not terribly bad.