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I insert the tube in the oil filler neck instead of the oil breather tube. I had the same issue with my Bravo and decided to get a silicone stopper that fit the oil filler neck opening and drill a hole in the center of it to fit the Engine Dehydrator tube. I remove the dip stick after every flight to let the moisture escape while the engine's hot, and then insert the stopper with the dehydrator tube. That gets the dehydrated air to the top of my Lycoming where it's needed most, and logically makes its way through the rest of the case. If I'm going to be down for an extended period I have dehydrator plugs to replace the top plug in each cylinder. I use a toaster oven at the hangar with two stainless steel baking pans. It takes about an hour at 250º to dry a batch of desiccant. I store both the used and dried desiccant in separate large flat tupperware-type containers. It's easier to empty the dehydrator jug and the baking pans into the larger plastic containers. And then when the time comes to dry or change desiccant I use a Solo cup to transfer the desiccant from the plastic container into the oven pans or the Engine Dehydrator jug. Sure it takes a little effort but it's easy and the drying doesn't have to be done all in one visit to the hangar. Having an air-tight container to store the dried desiccant is the key. Cheers, Rick

I have one. Last updated in 2017 (America region coverage). pm if interested

That is why the ASTM argument against G100UL has been a red herring all along.

I bought some three years ago that @flyingchump made and they are great! Smooth as they can be.

Yes I agree with you that is the "legal" answer. Yet in both cases of POH's on Normal Takeoff, landing gear are retracted before flaps........ How is the initial Climb during a Normal Takeoff different from the initial Climb during a Balked Landing/Go-Around?! Is the air around the plane, the lift of the wings or the physics of the plane any different between the 2 climbs?...No Is the recommended speed or rate of climb different?...No Is the attitude of the plane different?...No I don't understand the inconsistencies. Maybe more seasoned Mooney pilots can explain this. From a safety perspective, inconsistencies increase the chance of making a mistake. And here is another safety perspective. Problems with our landing gear systems are common topics on MS. There are many topics about the landing gear not retracting due to switch, solenoid or air-switch failures. They are unexpected events which can be startling while a pilot is under pressure of takeoff. If a pilot is going to be fiddle farting around/distracted during the initial climb cycling the gear switch, looking at the gear indicator light on the panel, looking down between the seats at the gear indicator window, or maybe pulling circuit breakers then they may not be fully focused on proper takeoff/climb. The pilot might even pull the power back intentially to keep the speed down for fear of exceeding "legal" gear retraction speed. These are times, especially at night or in marginal weather conditions, where there is a greater likelyhood of the pilot allowing the plane to lose speed or enter a banking turn that might become steep. I argue that it would be better to have flaps still deployed and out. It reduces the stall speed and gives an extra margin of safety so they don't stall the plane.

Still got a car with wire center knock off wheels that takes them lol

But the right car makes the trip to and from the airport so much more fun. Especially for rural airports as they tend to have nit twisty roads for access.

Peak of each type, F1 versus MotoGP https://www.redbull.com/us-en/formula-1-vs-motogp-speed-comparison Lap times, GP2 is 15 seconds slower than F1, but still faster than MotoGP

Sorry for the late follow up due to work obligations. I was able to sneak out one night and lube the pins. Works perfectly now. I've probably read the maintenance manual 50 times including when I wrenched on them at my family's maintenance shop and never noticed lube needed or called out for the pins. Now the door latches firmly and snuggly but not at all difficult. @Z W and @Marc_B, thanks. Next time you're at KPDK (Atlanta), reach out. I owe you at least a beer or your choice of non-alcoholic beverage. Thanks William

Lasar may have them even though they do not show on the website as available. It is worth calling them. May save you time and effort to make your own. I got a set recently from Lasar.

Excited for Mooney Summit this week! Getting the Anomaly ready now

Excited for Mooney Summit this week! I'll be there with The Anomaly!

But, cars and motorcycles both have inner tubes. Well cars used to.

@Ragsf15e PM me your address and I am happy to send you a set of Grainger sourced bushings and rollers noted earlier in the thread. I didn't pay attention to the quantity per order and way over bought. I assume you need 8 for both seats? I installed the Grainger ones earlier this year on the passenger side and have had no problem so far. My original rollers weren't that worn, but these do glide a little better. I had ordered only the pilot side from Lasar last year and the quality of the roll and fit is imperceptible between the two. William

I was gonna suggest a paintless dent repair kit as well. They're not very expensive and they're pretty effective for a lot of things. Hail dents is something they're pretty good at.

I have worked on a couple of Johnson bar Mooneys where the gear was rigged where the preloads were so high that you had to bend the Johnson bar every time you put the gear down. Having the gear rigged this way puts way more stress on the weld than it was designed for.

I needed to use it as my engine runs rough near the ocean, that’s when the cable broke when I pulled on it…

My dad was an engineer for Mooney from 1964 - 1969. He was the lead designer of the retractable step, an associate engineer on the design on the Mustang, ( he was against the roll cage concept and drew up a conventional pressurized tube design but was rejected) and lead AI/AP of the three assembly lines, back when they needed all three lines. We were cleaning out storage and came upon these items. I also found his Embry Riddle tie tack.

The connection is fragile, just a bolt and nut to squeeze the steel cable to secure to the lever arm. Why couldn’t the design be more like throttle/mixture/prop where it’s secured, considering this is a critical component to prevent carb icing…?

The Subaru has aluminum hood and roof. I had pretty good success with the Paintless Dent Repair kit off Amazon. Watched a couple of Youtube videos. Made so the big dents on the hood were just a blip. Pulled out a good size crease from Dad's fender ridge. My biggest question is I saw that the top quarter of my rudder had a slight bend on the very trailing edge. just the riveted edge The plane flys pretty straight, kind of wondering if it should be straightened or just leave well enough alone.

@Pinecone is gonna have to remember better so I can get some!

Ouch. This is not the first time I've heard of this happening. I'm glad you caught it on the ground.

Thanks for the write up.

Finally got my GAD43e upgrade completed. No additional wires needed in my case. One hiccup in that on the GAD43e configuration page on the G500, the installer initially selected "King KAS 297" for the type, but it had to be set to the "King KAS297B". When I flew home I couldn't get it to work, then after about 30 minutes of digging online I figured out the KAS297B seemed to be necessary. So I flew back over and the installer was able to update that and now it works. I love the level-off at altitude, it's super smooth. And as I age (in 25 to 35 years!) I expect that will prevent me from overshooting an altitude. I wasn't sure how it would handle the altitude hold after level-off at a preselected altitude, but it does actually turn on the altitude hold mode on the autopilot. For operation, wen you select an altitude or vertical speed on the G500, it notifies you to hold the button to select altitude capture or V/S set and capture. When you do press and hold the vertical speed, it will set the vertical speed to your current, and then you twist the knob to adjust it. Really looking forward to selecting an altitude at a waypoint, looking at the vertical speed required on the GTN750, setting that in the G500 and watching it fly me there. It's not actually a vertical nav system like if I had the GFC500 autopilot, but it's still pretty great!!