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Don't you know that GA planes will suddenly spin at >=31 degrees, regardless of speed or angle of attack?

There is much spirited debate about this topic. Look for @DVA’s post on Bravo engine management and join the fun. Since the POH Cruise Tables are effectively useless above 27”/2200, many opinions on operating the TIO540-Bravo have developed here. What I posted above is by no means an absolute, but my experience with my 240 SFOH engine. @donkaye, MCFI does not ever run LoP, having had issues, with the exhaust I suspect, and will probably chime in here before long. You’ve already heard from @Rick Junkin who is probably the most successful at running LoP. For awhile, I was fat, dumb and happy thinking I was able to duplicate his numbers but he kept nagging at me that my TIT was too low despite a very well respected Mooney Shop telling me it was just fine. Well I had a different well respected Mooney mechanic tell me it was too low as well. Turns out my TIT Probe was 1 ohm too low and I was really running the 30/22 peak numbers (1690°TIT), and not the 1540 I believed. It’s why I try to post as much data for a power setting here as possible, it’s already saved me from abusing my “baby” engine. After my research, I’m comfortable running CHT’s up to 400, the 380 offered here often is an actual Continental number, not a Lycoming number. My other mechanics recommendations range between 380-420° in higher power cruise, depending on the operating FF. My personal limit is 399° in cruise and I prefer lower while keeping the Cowl Flaps closed to get that 1-2kts. Since I added the FineWires and SureFly mags, the climb heating problems I was having with a cylinder are now down to “sometimes” a problem in cruise. The actual weak link in the engine is the exhaust and that is the reason why the unofficial TIT limits are 1600-1620 depending on who you ask. I’m sure I drive a few crazy here because I not only want to know how, but why people advocate what they do for our Bravo’s. Many here run the Key # method, but note above, not all Key 53’s are equal, nor is the % power of Key 53 constant for all altitudes if you are considering running Key53 peak or lean, see the engine manual to confirm that. I assume you have the ability to record data from your engine monitor. If not, I’d suggest getting one where you can and have it analyzed, by someone like Savvy. Ref: https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2025-02/60297-23P%20-%20TIO-540%20Series%20-%20Parallel%20Valve%20Cyl.pdf Moral here is read, research, and figure out which method works best FOR YOU! And understand why it works for you!!!! The good thing about this group is that we are happy to share. Invest in Savvy Engine support and take the APS Engine class, at least online. We own a collection of high strung thoroughbreds, each with their own idiosyncrasies, on a good day we tame them. This week, I limped to cheap gas at 24/22 peak TIT, only to run the next leg at 75% and 18gph to make up some time. I’m getting progressively more comfortable with need based settings vs one size fits all. There is much versatility available as you get comfortable with the options. Yes, I’m probably going to run mine a bit harder than you intend, but I’m also boroscoping every other oil change, or more and so far my only problems have been bad mag and wrong probe induced. How I run it also varies on the day’s mission. HTH, and don’t hesitate to reach out with or post questions.

Research "Owner Produced Parts". There has been a lot of discussion here about it, there are many FAA presentations about it, etc., etc. Basically, you can make them or have them made for use on your own aircraft, there are several different ways in which you can "particpate" in the production to make it officially blessed as a properly produced part for use on your aircraft.

Lasar will also have records of the testing yellow tag as well from 8/19/2025.

Yes, I believe it is my first post. Not exactly sure the signifigance. I’m in N2554W if you want to verify me or my aircraft. I bought this acuator to fix my M20E model, but was able to locate a new set of 40:1 gears for mine. Lasar thought that was the better option, so I had them certify this one and send both back to me. Gears are in good shape.Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Ryan 9102648213

So how does that work? Is it legal to have a shop build that block for me? I’ve never been down that road before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then once you follow @KSMooniac's advice on seeing whether you have provisions for headrests, if you find you do, some have gone to salvage yards and found Toyota headrests the same size and had them upholstered to match their seats.

Still have it, let me know!

@AndreiC I would love that! I'll reach out via DM. Thank you!!

Many older airplanes (i.e., ours) have damage history. It's pretty normal for something to have happened over 40-60+ years. As long as it was properly repaired, there's usually not much consequence after a few years.

I have also done it alone several times. I had 2 issues - my headliner is pretty brittle and some of the screws in the headliner are a PITA (especially to find to get started). While unscrewing the last corner or trying to thread the first corner, I ran the risk of the headliner flexing and cracking. I used some long pieces of cardboard folded into V shapes as props cut just long enough to support the headliner weight both removing and installing.

What seats do you have now? There might be headrest provisions hidden under the covering. They're just simple aluminum vertical tubes welded to the top of the frame that are a couple of inches long. You might have to remove the back panel and take a look.

I just got a text from a friend selling his 1987 252. If you're looking or know someone that is, it may be worth taking a look. https://aircraftforsale.com/aircraft/single-engine-piston/mooney/m20/m20k-252tse/68debd04-f73b-4507-989a-0f5a3eaf2642

Hello Mooneyspace, would anyone happen to have a high-resolution digital image of the Mooney logo shown in the attachment? Scalable vector graphic (SVG) format would be preferred. Thank you in advance.

Yes, this is the plane I'm getting. We went thru the logs back several years. I didn't think about the fact that the "damage history" could have been simple hanger rash or a runway excursion. I'm pretty confident that the damage was several years ago and the bank was only concerned with damage in the last 5 years. Thanks for the reply! Really looking forward to being part of this community.

Where did you get the seats with the headrests? That's the ones i want.

That’s how I did it. When I put it back, I connected the ducts and wires and used some string around the ducts to hold the weight until I could get a few screws in and slip out the string.

I have the drawings as I have made these in the past. Since it cost me money to have the drawings made, I won’t give them out for free but won’t charge an arm and a leg for them either if that’s something you’re interested in. Thanks, David

I will try to get out to the hangar and take a look at what I have.

I appreciate that, those are the photos I was able to take by squeezing my camera between the glare shield and the panel.

To my best knowledge I was told to keep CHT's low 380's to keep the engine happy even if you have to crack the cowl flaps open a little. Speed loss when they are half open is probably 1-2kts. Gas is less expensive than cylinders or premature turbo overhaul. Last time I was up at 17k TAS was 180kt at 17.7 GPH with hottest cylinder at 383 and TIT 1595. I am planning to install fine wire plugs during next annual and have my injectors recalibrated by gammi. Hopefully it will have a more complete burn and reduce TIT. Engine is around 270 since factory reman and I am trying to last as long as possible without any major service. Time delta on a 500nm flight and running it hard to get additional 10kt is 9 minutes.

I have an annunciator panel in my junk pile. Send me a pic and/or part number and I will see if it will work for you.

I have a g500txi with Garmin eis and no vacuum pump, so I think I have everything covered except gear.

I did the same thing and removed the annunciator. You’ll need engine monitoring to substitute for the fuel low and voltage lights not to mention the engine instruments, get rid of the vacuum pump, and then it’s just gear lights. Be aware the nav lights dimming circuit for gear down light.

I'm pretty sure that's who I contacted, it's $250 to bench test it and that's waved if I accept the repairs, but honestly I just don't want the downtime to deal with this thing more than I have to because I don't have a good mechanic at my field atm, that's why I was wondering if there was just something dead simple I could replace it with to avoid any future issues with it. Does anyone know if it's necessary for flight? Can I pull it out and rely on the floor indicator while it's being serviced -- I don't like that idea, just curious.