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@Wapst Are you after INTERIOR trim screws? (Your 'cabin door' and 'overhead console' made me think that was a possibility. If so, a quick search at Aircraft Spruce didn't turn up anything for 'kits', but you could try, as well. If not, I'd just drive down with a couple of samples and ask the guys at the counter; they are helpful if not the friendliest bunch

There are copies of the service manuals in the downloads section…

Hard to put out an AD on thinking….

And Aircraft Spruce is local to you… just down the road in Corona. For specific applications, look up the hardware part numbers in the IPC and order in quantities of 100… any fasteners in question… toss them in the trash.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/exterwasherkit.php?clickkey=3053680

Hello all. I am finally an owner. I recently purchased M20F 3288F, a 1967 model. I love the aircraft and ferried it back from Washington state with my A&P/CFI. Two issues that are demanding attention are an oil leak which is "lubricating" the nose gear, and what appears to be weak elevator bungee springs. I will be at the hangar with my A&P this Thursday to start addressing these issues. I did buy the service manuals (but I left them in the aircraft an hour away) but I'd like to know if this is something that can be solved by opening up the bungees and replacing springs. Both the A&P who last looked at the aircraft and my A&P think this needs to be addressed so I'm 100% on board, just trying to get a lead on part sourcing. Any guidance would be helpful. Can the bungee assemblies be opened up and, what I presume are springs, be replaced? Thanks! Paul

I recently acquired an M20F - but there are a lot of screws and grommets missing from body panels i'd like to try and add back. I've seen a few screw assortments for sale. Does anyone have luck with the sets? or have other strategies for finding replacements? Right now focusing on the cabin door, overhead console Thanks in advance

The Starlink mini draws about 60 watts. If you’re comfortable pulling 5+ amps (12 volt system assumed) through the cigarette lighter socket and the socket’s CB is rated for 10 amps, it should work. If you want to test first, wire a 2 ohm 100 watt resistor to a cigarette lighter plug and see. As your Bravo is a 24 volt airplane, use an 8 ohm resistor. As for me, I’d wire in a USB port rated for the power level and delete that lighter socket.

Did you see @GeeBee's posts above? Looks like a pretty elegant and effective solution and answer to your question.

did you go flying in a Bonanza recently?

According to the log books for my '83J the NBS was replaced in Oct. 2002: "C/W Mooney SB M20-279 installed ModKit-1 P/N M20-279-000" The sticker on the actuator labeled "Maintenance record clutch spring replacement A 10-85" has a "1" punched in the the first square. It seem that in 2002 Mooney sold a kit.

usually replace them once a month to prevent colonization

Surely there's a way to know in advance?

After the oil change I can confirm that for the IO550 installation in the Ovation the “ice hole” is way too far up the breather tube to make it possible or safe to use the breather tube method with this unit. You are all correct going down through the oil filler tube. How far down that tube is the breather tube entrance?? Or, how far down the oil filler tube do I have to insert the plastic tube from the dehumidifier unit??.

You won't know for sure until you try it, but the people over on Beechtalk use these and have success with them: https://www.amazon.com/Starlink-Cigarette-Dissipation-Waterproof-Protections/dp/B0DMNPGRZN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2M89JT7R8C1RQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4FFoQB6iP0a2VqCcJVbDTtVbry2BNhi5wnBRZ_xLqgJU9dw2PvUc1lwi1LSKI9c1OpsZqCAs5W0gU4caB_SxdB2ZwdEBBibNgdaTbMPLwI-QjmMNFSY1ekqt5UxJS9XoXukn0ACD1kCWTeGBMKA3JgB8wsmkPle32kYwCIuIwsnJ5Auo2ZrC73menScqOYkGz444kfFbF4upjp3VofZmF-mFBwr4-u6KMDKxcoTW6aM.1hxfH60mruFMLFWUC2C8qRxXvJq467LwRao_xQrEhfQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=starlink%2Bcigarette%2Blighter%2Badapter&qid=1758458470&sprefix=STARLINK%2BCIG%2Caps%2C363&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I'd like to use Starlink in my Bravo. I have the cigar lighter socket but how do I know it can support the power required for Starlink?

I also looked up Brown Aircraft you mentioned in another thread and thought this might work on the back of the glareshield. It’s pretty small. https://www.brownaircraft.com/Black-Trim-Lok-Edge-Trim-1-64in-by-3-8in-p/trim-lock-0-b.htm

My personal minimums are 2100x30 ft day VFR, 2500x40 night VFR.

Finally got the opportunity to attend a local fly-in that I've been wanting to get to at 1KS3 Leo's Place (1100' published, but later lengthened to 1400'). I reviewed this thread extensively last night along with my POH which was helpful to set my mind at ease, so a big thanks to the guys with MUCH more experience than myself. I did a couple power-off stalls on the way over so I knew the plane was stalling at 59 mph. Overflew the field to check the windsock and landed into the wind. Turns out, the "wind" was about zero and that set me up for a downhill landing. Started final at 1.3 Vso, realized I was a bit high, so I slipped it down and then slowed to 1.2 Vso. Just enough energy to flair but not much more, not a whole lot different than a normal landing other than very precise speed management. Flaps up and back pressure for aerodynamic braking and weight on the mains. I could see I had plenty of room so used very little braking. Stopped in about 900' in spite of the downhill runway. The stall horn chirped once on final, then blared as soon as I started my round out to flair. For takeoff, I chose to accept about 5 knot tailwind so I could takeoff downhill. Did my run-up into the wind, then applied full power about 90 degrees through my turn to final. Kept it on the runway until I knew I had sufficient speed to lift off. Then gear up, flaps up and climb away. The terrain fell away after the end of the runway so no need to worry about clearing obstacles. Lift off was about 950', probably could have yanked it off the ground sooner, but again, could see I had plenty of remaining runway. I don't think I was far off the book numbers for either the takeoff or landing given the conditions (grass, downhill, tailwind, etc.) Of course I went light, about 530 lbs below gross. There was a lot of discussion on here about whether to have a steeper approach or a normal 3* approach. With no glide slope indicator, I couldn't really tell you what I did. It felt like a normal approach, but I almost always use a steeper approach than the glide slope indicators. Sorry, I can't help settle that argument other than to say, don't change your approach substantially from your normal approach. All and all, quite fun, but don't do it without a bit of practice at a longer field. My hangar is 1700' from the end of a 12,300' runway, so I do a lot of short field landings to make my turnoff.

They seemed pretty easy to get until shortly before the most recent factory ownership change. When Jonny took over, one of the things people were asking for was availability of the NBS, and I know this was on his short list of things to shore up. But it never really seemed to happen. Prior to 2020, iirc you could get one of these through a MSC for under 1AMU.

The way I was interpreting it was that the spring breaks when the lever goes up, and the gear remain down and locked. So no gear up landing, no report filed. I don’t pretend to be an expert in these actuators or the sequence of events, so I may be way off base.

I believe that's Trim Loc which is pretty thick. I haven't tried this, but I think it's a possibility https://www.glapinc.com/Cessna/misc/misc.htm

Have you got the “bravo” style glareshield in your MSE? I thought that didn’t come out until the Allegro in ‘96? My ‘91 isn’t bad to remove. I do put some gaffer tape on the center post to avoid scratching it, but otherwise remove the two screws, disconnect the glareshield lighting, and pull straight back while bending it at the seam in the center. Slides right out no problem.

Jaeger no longer sells it; they've lost their supplier. Vantage has some and this MM Seal looks to be an option https://mmseals.com/collections/edge-trim/products/gray-edge-trim-standard-size-u-extrusion-u-height-17-32-grip-range-3-64-9-64

I replaced the windlace in the baggage compartment area today; it was much easier than I thought (and that's without having the old one to match the cut/hole placement). I also re-installed the overhead piece in the baggage area so I got a first view at the colors and I'm very happy with the color combo. I'm glad to have gone a custom color (even if I means waiting a few weeks to get the last piece painted because the shop ran out of on ingredient). The only downside is that it will show dirt much easier. I'm leaving town tomorrow morning for a week so no more progress but it gives me time to order a few odds/ends I didn't expect to be issues like the window beading.