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Posted

Dear All,

I would like to buy TouchUp pens for our 1998 M20J Allegro S/N 24-3429, but I don't know the colours code.

Does anyone knows the correct colour code for our paint scheme? I send in attach a picure of the aircraft and a picture of the IPC with the paint scheme. It has base white with light blue stripes.

I know I can take a placcard and take it to a paint shop for scan.. but I already tried this and it is not equal. I would prefer to buy a Pen with the correct colour.

Can anyone share the right place to buy this? AircraftSpruce, or SkyGeek, etc?

Thanks for your help

Fredi

 

 

IMG_0756.JPG

IPC.JPG

Posted

I doubt there are any touch up pens with Mooney colors available. Even if there were, your 23 year old paint has likely faded at least a little too not exactly match the original color.

A good paint store should be able to match your current color with a sample. If not, you should keep asking around for one that can.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I tried to match paint codes at an auto paint only store.  None of the codes matched.  Just blank stares from across the counter.   If you are OK with 10 foot aways match.   Rustoleum Gloss white is pretty good match.  Some of the color from the rubbing compound helps it match.

Edited by Yetti
Posted

Take a panel off like the battery cover.  You will need to find an uninterrupted area of one color about the size of a credit card.  Then polish that area aggressively with rubbing compound or ultra or micro fine 3M pads from an auto body paint supply shop.  It will look lighter than the surrounding area.  Have them shoot the spot with their digital camera and mix paint accordingly.  This should give you a match only you will ever notice.

  • Like 5
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Lance Link said:

Take a panel off like the battery cover.  You will need to find an uninterrupted area of one color about the size of a credit card.  Then polish that area aggressively with rubbing compound or ultra or micro fine 3M pads from an auto body paint supply shop.  It will look lighter than the surrounding area.  Have them shoot the spot with their digital camera and mix paint accordingly.  This should give you a match only you will ever notice.

What Lance Link said plus going to a PPG automotive paint store will yield better results as their camera reads from 11 different color angles and 5 different texture angles. They will be able to give you the closest automotive paint code to use on paintscratch.com. Utilize the support and search feature of their website to enter in the paint code only. Also by using the pens, you won’t have to worry about activating the paint. 

Edited by hphillips
  • Thanks 1
Posted
13 hours ago, hphillips said:

What Lance Link said plus going to a PPG automotive paint store will yield better results as their camera reads from 11 different color angles and 5 different texture angles. They will be able to give you the closest automotive paint code to use on paintscratch.com. Utilize the support and search feature of their website to enter in the paint code only. Also by using the pens, you won’t have to worry about activating the paint. 

I did that and they did in fact match the original Sherwin-Williams Garnet red to a Mazda car color which was a poor match to the airplane. I called a well known local aircraft painter and they told me that they get touch up paint from a NAPA store that has a paint department. I went there and they used their camera to come up with a perfect match. So, wherever you go, if you want a perfect match, make sure they don’t just get the nearest auto color, but actually match it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to took one access panel below the stabilizer, because although our M20J had always been hangared, the batery panel faded a bit during these +20years, and took it to a new paint shopt. The colour code result was White RAL9003, and after touch up it matches prety well the original aicraft white. Now I only need to nail the finishing, polishing, etc.

Neverthless, I will search on paintscrath.com for a pen.

Thanks for all for your advice.

Cheers,

Fredi

Posted
On 8/3/2021 at 8:58 PM, hphillips said:Also by using the pens, you won’t have to worry about activating the paint. 

Why does using a pen allow to not activate the paint? Just curious. 

Posted

I just last week brought a panel to Motor car colors which the matched, I almost lost a battle with a thunderstorm which beat my leading edges up in 30-45 seconds. Great match

A5BD4E78-924E-4B20-8C61-B72C8B50596F.jpeg

A97D2473-3B5C-48F9-BB82-F7AF0EA8E1B3.jpeg

BE5AAF0C-C860-4EEA-85BD-D08493E3D531.jpeg

672B1410-D59D-48A8-B738-F5E410CCB029.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Why does using a pen allow to not activate the paint? Just curious. 

Are you talking about catalyst (aka hardener)?

If you match to an enamel paint you don’t need a hardener. Even if you use polyurethane, it will dry fine without hardener - it just won’t be as tough. Actually, this is better for filling a chip because you can buff down the softer fill paint to make it level with the harder original paint. 

If you want, you could add hardener to the paint when you fill the pen, but you’ll have use it within a few hours and then throw the pen away. 

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Posted
6 hours ago, Danb said:

I just last week brought a panel to Motor car colors which the matched, I almost lost a battle with a thunderstorm which beat my leading edges up in 30-45 seconds. Great match

A5BD4E78-924E-4B20-8C61-B72C8B50596F.jpeg

A97D2473-3B5C-48F9-BB82-F7AF0EA8E1B3.jpeg

BE5AAF0C-C860-4EEA-85BD-D08493E3D531.jpeg

672B1410-D59D-48A8-B738-F5E410CCB029.jpeg

Can you share some details?

What kind of paint did you use — enamel, lacquer, polyurethane, catalyzed or not?

Did you blend it into the old paint or leave a tape line?

If you blended it, how did you do it?
 

Posted

2k urethane, stripped edges to bare metal, primed with metal etch primer which is made for adhesion to bare metal., had  some rough edges, built up with building primer.

Decided to blend, so we put a few coats on the metal and fanned it back, blending in, wet sanding buffing will polish later. Whites not bad, deciding if I want to do complete job on white or touch and blend.

Major problem the job was done and it stayed tacky, some reason an issue with the reducer. It took another 10-12 hours to strip then prepare.

Not for the faint of heart, unreasonable cost for a shop to do it.

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