Skin surface corrosion?

[RobertGary1]

Does this need to be sanded or just etched?

-Robert

[carusoam]

Is that the trim piece between the cabin and the wing?

Byron @jetdriven usually has good answers for this kind of question...

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

If you sand, be careful of the rivet heads!!

[markejackson02]

Cleaned with a scotch-brite pad then alodined and repainted.

[jetdriven]

Zoom out a little bit, what is it 

[RobertGary1]

Its a trim piece between the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical.

 

-Robert

[RobertGary1]

2 hours ago, markejackson02 said:

Cleaned with a scotch-brite pad then alodined and repainted.

Would you expect that I'd be able to get all the blotching out with the scotch-brite? How aggressive would you get with it?

-Robert

[markejackson02]

15 hours ago, RobertGary1 said:

Would you expect that I'd be able to get all the blotching out with the scotch-brite? How aggressive would you get with it?

-Robert

Let's put it this way.  If it doesn't come off with a little elbow grease and a maroon scotch-brite, then you need to step back and have the experts look at it. 

[Releew]

With deep corrosion your best bet is a cheap soda blaster from Harbor Freight.  Its really the only way to truly get all the embedded corrosion.

1. Blast
2. Feather edge surrounding paint
3. Wipe with MEK
4. Tape up
5. Alidine
6. Use Etching Primer...a couple coats (Rattle Can)
7. Regular primer...a couple coats (Rattle Can)
8. Sand with 400G wet paper
9. Use a scotch pad pad to scuff around the area
10. Light coat of paint until tacky followed by two cover coats
11. Let become tacky once completely covered
12. Use a rattle can product called FADE to blend the dry edges of the new paint.  USE SPARINGLY.  This is a HOT RETARDER
13. Let dry for a week if rattle can, a day if polyurethane or an activated cover coat
14. Buff with compound

It will look like nothing was ever there!

 

Rick 

[LANCECASPER]

On 4/25/2018 at 11:47 PM, Releew said:

With deep corrosion your best bet is a cheap soda blaster from Harbor Freight.  Its really the only way to truly get all the embedded corrosion.

1. Blast
2. Feather edge surrounding paint
3. Wipe with MEK
4. Tape up
5. Alidine
6. Use Etching Primer...a couple coats (Rattle Can)
7. Regular primer...a couple coats (Rattle Can)
8. Sand with 400G wet paper
9. Use a scotch pad pad to scuff around the area
10. Light coat of paint until tacky followed by two cover coats
11. Let become tacky once completely covered
12. Use a rattle can product called FADE to blend the dry edges of the new paint.  USE SPARINGLY.  This is a HOT RETARDER
13. Let dry for a week if rattle can, a day if polyurethane or an activated cover coat
14. Buff with compound

It will look like nothing was ever there!

 

Rick 

Great write up! Where do you buy FADE? Who makes it?

[Releew]

Any automotive paint store.  I think its a DuPont product.  Great product!  Be careful....its tempting to put it on heavy and it will RUN the paint off the plane!!!

 

It's called Fade or Blend....depending on the supplier.

 

Rick

[RobertGary1]

57 minutes ago, Releew said:

Any automotive paint store.  I think its a DuPont product.  Great product!  Be careful....its tempting to put it on heavy and it will RUN the paint off the plane!!!

  

It's called Fade or Blend....depending on the supplier.

 

Rick

Is it this?

 

-Robert

[Releew]

Yep.....   But you can get it in an aerosol can too.  One can will last a LONG time!!!

[RobertGary1]

1 hour ago, Releew said:

Yep.....   But you can get it in an aerosol can too.  One can will last a LONG time!!!

IDK. You have be worried about overspray the way you described the stuff. I'm thinking a dab on a rag would work better???

I hope I can even buy the stuff. So much of the stuff I used to get at the paint store isn't sold in California any longer.

 

-Robert

Edited April 26, 2018 by RobertGary1

[FloridaMan]

Those Harbor Freight soda blasters work wonders on corrosion and you get the added benefit that you're not taking off good aluminum at the same time. 

[Releew]

Do yourself a favor.....  If you purchase the Soda Blaster, also purchase the BEST air filter available.  I personally like the Paper Filters to completely eliminate water in the line and mixing with the Soda.  When it does, its a PITA to clear out.  These blasters utilize a pressurized tank so the air pushes the blast media out.  Its not like the old hopper sand blasters that pull the blast media through a venturie.

Another trick I found is to take a garden hose and adjust it to a cone spray.  Place the Blaster Nozzle in the middle of the cone and the residual atomized soda will dissolve eliminating the dust storm.  Works really well and your hangar neighbors will be thankful...!

It takes ~90psi at 15CFM to get a good cut at the tip of the blaster.  You can do it in less but it will be in short spurts.

 

Rick