Shoulder Harness Install - M20F

[MikeOH]

Okay, I got the Alpha mounting kit from Spruce and the Hooker shoulder harnesses themselves.  So, today I pulled the window trims out and got to work...

Took me all of about five minutes to get the passenger side mount installed, but the pilot's side is turning into a real pain in the posterior!!

Has anyone done this and know any 'tricks' as it's getting close to me running out of four-letter words?  The damn thing just won't slide around the frame tubing without the mount 'ear' hanging up on the roof above the tubing.

Any advice, help, new four-letter words would be appreciated!

[Skates97]

I did the left side first knowing it was going to be much more difficult than the right. 

The only thing that I can say is further up towards the roof there seemed to be more room, that may mean removing the headliner. There really isn't any trick I could come up with. 

[MikeOH]

2 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

I did the left side first knowing it was going to be much more difficult than the right. 

The only thing that I can say is further up towards the roof there seemed to be more room, that may mean removing the headliner. There really isn't any trick I could come up with. 

Thanks!

That was what I was thinking... remove the headliner and hope for the best.

[carusoam]

Spend a few minutes using the search function...

This is a pretty well known challenge. Unfortunately, I don’t recall any better advice than what Richard explained.

Best regards,

-a-

[Yetti]

I ended up taking some of the screws around the area and up towards the top of the plane loose.   Also using a number 1 phillips to put through the holes on the clamp helped keep it straight and provided purchase to slide it down from the top.  Use the #1 through the clamp holes and then a flat blade to keep it all moving down the tube.   I started up around the corner. 

Remember if you slip with a screw driver that is the outer skin of the airplane.  Don't be prying anything for the same reason.

If you have the loose nuts for the clamp some blue masking tape will hold the nut on the wrench to get the bolt started.   Use the open end of the wrench.

[MikeOH]

1 hour ago, Yetti said:

I ended up taking some of the screws around the area and up towards the top of the plane loose.   Also using a number 1 phillips to put through the holes on the clamp helped keep it straight and provided purchase to slide it down from the top.  Use the #1 through the clamp holes and then a flat blade to keep it all moving down the tube.   I started up around the corner. 

Remember if you slip with a screw driver that is the outer skin of the airplane.  Don't be prying anything for the same reason.

If you have the loose nuts for the clamp some blue masking tape will hold the nut on the wrench to get the bolt started.   Use the open end of the wrench.

I assume you mean the sheet metal screws holding the skin to the tubing?  I've removed them up the tubing on the vertical section, but not those underneath the headliner.  I wasn't having much luck at the 'corner'; if you mean where the frame tubing goes from vertical by the window to horizontal at the roof.

Good idea using the screwdriver to move the clamp down the tubing...once I FINALLY get the clamp around the tube!

How did you handle cutting the trim to accommodate the mounting bolt?  The way it assembles to the shoulder harness seems like I have to notch a cutout, rather than a simple hole.  I don't see how I could mount the clamp and harness and put the window trim back on otherwise. Am I missing something?

[Yetti]

Each of the planes are hand made....  They may have done a better job of putting your skin on tight.    There seemed to be the widest spot between the skin and tube about 12 - 15 inches up from the final install setting.   Opened the clamp and pushed through from back to front.  I believe I was sitting in the rear seat for the work.   Since I am taller the clamps final resting spot for the clamp may be a bit higher, so did not have to push as far down the tube.

I have a plastic piece that covers the tube at the headliner.  It came off.

The instructions did not say if the clamp should face forward or to the rear.  Mine face rear.   I sit far enough back that even with the harness tight I still have several inches between the chest and belt.  I realize this is not good, but I don't want to gain weight so I decided to do my best never to need the chest harness.

For the trim I did a best estimate eye ball and drilled a small hole then widened to proper diameter for the collar with a hand reamer.    Seemed like a cleaner install.   Paint the plastic before installing since you have to take the belt off before removing the plastic.

[luv737s]

Had my local A&P put on the shoulder harness.  Cost me $150 but worth it. 

[Skates97]

1 hour ago, luv737s said:

Had my local A&P put on the shoulder harness.  Cost me $150 but worth it. 

This is probably the best installation advice I have heard!

It cost me $20 to have my AP/IA sign off on it after I was done. In hind sight, spending the extra $130 would have been worth it...

[MikeOH]

12 hours ago, Yetti said:

Each of the planes are hand made....  They may have done a better job of putting your skin on tight.    There seemed to be the widest spot between the skin and tube about 12 - 15 inches up from the final install setting.   Opened the clamp and pushed through from back to front.  I believe I was sitting in the rear seat for the work.   Since I am taller the clamps final resting spot for the clamp may be a bit higher, so did not have to push as far down the tube.

I have a plastic piece that covers the tube at the headliner.  It came off.

The instructions did not say if the clamp should face forward or to the rear.  Mine face rear.   I sit far enough back that even with the harness tight I still have several inches between the chest and belt.  I realize this is not good, but I don't want to gain weight so I decided to do my best never to need the chest harness.

For the trim I did a best estimate eye ball and drilled a small hole then widened to proper diameter for the collar with a hand reamer.    Seemed like a cleaner install.   Paint the plastic before installing since you have to take the belt off before removing the plastic.

Success!!

In my case I had to work more towards the top, where the tube had become horizontal.  I think you're right about the hand-built variation as I ended up needing to feed the clamp in from the front; pretty much tried that out of desperation after trying from the back.  The 'ear' kept hanging up on the sheet metal corner when I pushed from the back.

I'm still a bit confused on how the panel goes back on since it has to go on before the shoulder harness:  How do you hold the nut on the back of clamp when the panel is already in place before you can tighten the bolt?

[MikeOH]

11 hours ago, luv737s said:

Had my local A&P put on the shoulder harness.  Cost me $150 but worth it. 

OMG!

I really didn't need to have read that.

Man, if could have had this done for $150, I would have been all over it.  Good for you!!

Edited March 7, 2018 by MikeOH

[Yetti]

I like progress.

Open end box wrench.   Tape the nut to wrench and then hold it behind the clamp while bending the plastic out a bit and screw bolt into it. I used the blue painters tape.  then tighten the bolt.  Then install the plastic trim.

Being able to work by feel is an art form for working on Mooney's.   I don't even think I watch when safety tying the oil filter.   A fuel pump is mostly by feel.

[jetdriven]

The nut has a little flange on it, so I loaded it up into a box end wrench and just kinda stabbed it back there behind everything and hit the bolt. The feeling I had at the time is when I took off the Bahamas a couple weeks ago and its 400-1/2  everywhere around, and I had a 12 hour engine.. This will probably go alright but I'm totally screwed if it doesnt.

Edited March 7, 2018 by jetdriven

[Yetti]

You have to open up the belly if it don't go well.  Tape was insurance.

[MikeOH]

1 hour ago, Yetti said:

I like progress.

Open end box wrench.   Tape the nut to wrench and then hold it behind the clamp while bending the plastic out a bit and screw bolt into it. I used the blue painters tape.  then tighten the bolt.  Then install the plastic trim.

Being able to work by feel is an art form for working on Mooney's.   I don't even think I watch when safety tying the oil filter.   A fuel pump is mostly by feel.

Ah, bend the plastic enough to reach in with the wrench.  Got it, thanks!

In my case, I'll need to use an open end wrench as there is no way the box end has clearance to come off the nut after tightening.

Thanks for the tip about using the painter's tape.  Fishing the nut out of the belly does not sound like fun.

Edited March 7, 2018 by MikeOH

[RLCarter]

1 hour ago, MikeOH said:

I'm still a bit confused on how the panel goes back on since it has to go on before the shoulder harness:  How do you hold the nut on the back of clamp when the panel is already in place before you can tighten the bolt?

When I did mine a few years ago, the nut came welded to the clamp

[MikeOH]

4 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

When I did mine a few years ago, the nut came welded to the clamp

That would have been great!

No way I'm taking the clamps off to weld on the nuts at this point!