anthonydesmet Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 Hello Forum, I need to replace a couple of my shock mounts on my panel (pilot side upper left and lower left). I have part numbers and diagram from my service manual but just wondering if anyone has done this could give me some insight of what I am getting into. Looks pretty strait forward but would like to hear from people that have had hands on. If there is already a post on this that someone knows about please pass. VR, 1 Quote
milotron Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 Tuned in...I am waiting for parts to be delivered so I can do this to my K. I am pretty certain that my panel is just resting with the lower row of switches on the steel bar behind the panel. Quote
PTK Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 On 2/13/2017 at 7:06 PM, anthonydesmet said: Hello Forum, I need to replace a couple of my shock mounts on my panel (pilot side upper left and lower left). I have part numbers and diagram from my service manual but just wondering if anyone has done this could give me some insight of what I am getting into. Looks pretty strait forward but would like to hear from people that have had hands on. If there is already a post on this that someone knows about please pass. VR, I replaced all my panel shock mounts and I can share with you my procedure which allows for the replacement of the mounts by suspending the entire panel weight without removing any instruments. I would urge you to replace all of them as well. The Lord part no. that I used is SMB 003-0200-9. It is the one that's female threaded to receive male phillips screw. (The existing acorn one is male to receive acorn female.) It allows you to use a phillips screw to mount the panel. Instead of the acorn nut. I like the look of the screw flush with the panel better. Start across the top. Remove the glare shield and remove and replace the shock mounts across the top one at a time with these new ones. Don't remove any others and don't use any screws to hold the panel in yet. Only the top one at a time remove and replace. When done with this step you have the new mounts across the top with the screw hole in the panel. Now install some longer temporary screws across the top to temporarily hold the panel and suspend its weight on the new shock mounts. Longer screws so you can slide entire panel out just enough to give you room to work in removing the bottom shock mounts in the next step. Once these longer temporary screws are in across the top securing the panel, remove remaining acorn nuts across bottom. Now slide entire panel out a little maybe a cm or so while suspended on longer screws across top. Just enough to give you room to remove and replace shock mounts across bottom. Remove and replace mounts across bottom. These are fun because you'll have to get underneath to access these bottom ones! Now slide panel back in and attach it to bottom mounts with permanent flush phillips screws. Remove temporary screws and put in permanent flush screws across top one at a time. Make certain all screws are tight! Replace glare shield. Now sit back in the pilot's seat and look at your beautiful panel that's tight up against the glareshied and held in with flush phillips screws instead of those acorn nuts! Done! 3 Quote
anthonydesmet Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Posted February 14, 2017 2 hours ago, PTK said: I replaced all my panel shock mounts and I can share with you my procedure which allows for the replacement of the mounts by suspending the entire panel weight without removing any instruments. I would urge you to replace all of them as well. The Lord part no. that I used is SMB 003-0200-9. It is the one that's female threaded to receive male phillips screw. (The existing acorn one is male to receive acorn female.) It allows you to use a phillips screw to mount the panel. Instead of the acorn nut. I like the look of the screw flush with the panel better. Start across the top. Remove the glare shield and remove and replace the shock mounts across the top one at a time with these new ones. Don't remove any others and don't use any screws to hold the panel in yet. Only the top one at a time remove and replace. When done with this step you have the new mounts across the top with the screw hole in the panel. Now install some longer temporary screws across the top to temporarily hold the panel and suspend its weight on the new shock mounts. Longer screws so you can slide entire panel out just enough to give you room to work in removing the bottom shock mounts in the next step. Once these longer temporary screws are in across the top securing the panel, remove remaining acorn nuts across bottom. Now slide entire panel out a little maybe a cm or so while suspended on longer screws across top. Just enough to give you room to remove and replace shock mounts across bottom. Remove and replace mounts across bottom. These are fun because you'll have to get underneath to access these bottom ones. Now slide panel back in and attach it to bottom mounts with permanent flush phillips screws. Remove temporary screws and put in permanent flush screws across top one at a time. Make certain all screws are tight! Replace glare shield. Now sit back in the pilot's seat and look at your beautiful panel that's tight up against the glareshied and held in with flush phillips screws instead of those acorn nuts! Done! GENIOUS! Thank you. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 I did mine two years ago. I was expecting it to be a real PITA. I was surprised how smoothly it went. Quote
Brandontwalker Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 I did mine last year using shock mounts from McMaster. It was a simple project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
milotron Posted February 14, 2017 Report Posted February 14, 2017 Most of mine are actually completely separated. Is there something to grip the frame side with in this case? A job for vice grips? It doesn't look like much material left there. Quote
carusoam Posted February 17, 2017 Report Posted February 17, 2017 My C got all new acorn nuts when they were done. Brass ones for a classic look and magnetic free... Best regards, -a- Quote
milotron Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 I just completed this today. About an hour and a half including looking for dropped/lost hardware... Not too bad a job. Pulled the glareshield out. Removed the isolators at the top and replaced with long 8-32 screws per PTKs suggestion above. Replaced all of the lower isolators, then removed the screws at top and replaced those. Worst part was getting all of the lower screws aligned with the holes; my holes were barely large enough to clear the studs and were a tight fit. Note that I used the 'Cessna' isolators from aircraft spruce. These have studs of equal length on both sides. The Mooney studs are not the same length, so I had to cut 1/8" or so off of each one. I could not find the exact match from someone who would sell/ship to Canada. All save for one of my isolators were separated. Judging by the condition of the rubber, they have been like this for quite a long time. The panel went up a full half an inch when finished, in fact I had to rotate a toggle switch as the glareshield now contacted it! While off I also replaced a couple of glareshield lamps and put one of the lamp shrouds back on. I now realize how bad my glareshield is and look forward to having it redone by Aerocomfort later this year. 3 Quote
carusoam Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 Great Pirep milotron! Best regards, -a- Quote
xcrmckenna Posted August 14, 2017 Report Posted August 14, 2017 My grounding strap broke when the mount broke. I found the mounts but not the strap. Should I just cut them myself? Or is there a part number? Quote
bradp Posted August 15, 2017 Report Posted August 15, 2017 I could never find the ground strap easily. You can get substitutes on mouser / Newark etc. For those undertaking this project id recommend using McMaster - they have a great selection of equivalent or better shock mounts. I would go with something with a little bit more shear weight - I've had to replace my mounts twice now within the past 6 years. 1 Quote
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