pinerunner

I didn't know that houses made good shock absorbers. I wonder how you can identify the soft squishy ones.

100 grand would spiff mine up pretty nice. I'd like to know what he finally gets for it.

If I bought these for my 64 E Model it would make the rest of the plane look old. So I would have to upgrade the cowling to a LoPresti (gotta have an Italian name in there) so i would have a balanced self image. Probably glass panel would follow and a Ferrari (or maybe a Bugatti, which sounds Italian but is actually made in France, or to be a bit more frugal a Guzzi motorcycle). Wake me up if I start drooling.

I agree. When I first started trying LOP I found that the EGT's started to rise again if I leaned it too much. The only explanation I can come up with was that the the fuel/air mixture was still burning when it went out the exhaust. Totally wasted calories so lower fuel efficiency expected. My GAMI spread isn't very good; number 1 is the last t go lean about 0.5 GPH as I recall. That's why I have my spread of degrees LOP so low. I never try the Wide Open Throttle LOP thing where you just use the mixture to get your LOP power. It runs too rough. At very low power settings I set it close to peak. It basically amounts to the old "lean to roughness then enrich until it smooths out. I like to think about this stuff but when I'm flying I want things as simple as possible.

Well to correct the correction..I was LOP. Manifold pressure together with RPM do not give you power when you're LOP. The tables that are published with the typical owners manual assume leaning to best power and are not valid otherwise. To do the best job I would have to do a bit more but using the MP RPM table or MP RPM rules of thumb when running LOP would not lead to a valid answer. I've read 14.9 HP/GPH gives a reasonable estimate of power when CHT and that was close for me a couple years ago when I compared LOP vs ROP adjusting to get the same IAS. The assumption was same airspeed must be same power but updrafts and downdrafts made it trickier; I had to average it a bit over time. I didn't do this over a bunch of settings; once was enough to satisfy me given the simple logic; LOP side fuel is the limiting reagent; ROP side air is the limiting reagent, thus the Tables (temperature matters too but effect smaller).

OK I did the experiment. Setting up at 20 " of manifold pressure and 2500 RPM and slightly LOP (10 LOP on the richest and about 50 LOP on the leanest cylinder) I pulled back the prop until I had 1700 RPM. I did get a decrease in CHT of about 30 degrees (from memory; notebook was misplaced). The MP went up, as expected, to 23 " since I was pulling air through a lot slower. Not that I didn't believe what others were saying but I like to see things for myself (except for how Mooneys behave in a spin; that I don't want to experience). I still totally don't believe that low RPMs on takeoff are a good idea. At high power settings I stick with the old rule "don't let MP exceed RPM/100". At lower power settings I give myself permission to experiment and watch the CHT's to stay out of trouble. This is an interesting subject. Deakins reccomends low RPM's for descent. I want to understand this better.

Yes you can run too cold. Mike Busch has a talk about it as I recall ( though it might have been John Deakins). There's an additive in the fuel that helps the tetraethyl lead to go out the exhaust and not end up as deposits on valve stems and spark plugs. It works better at higher temperatures. So while you want CHT's lower than 400 degrees for sure, you don't want them as low as possible. It's the reason I think twice about loitering mode and consider lower RPM's to keep the CHT's up when I go to lower power.

I certainly put the pitot cover on. I don't want to try landing without airspeed. We have the occasional mud-dauber wasp. I haven't bothered with cowl plugs and have the cover tucked away. Paper wasps are around. I see their nests plenty so I do my best to remember to close the little window. I think different areas of the country are different. The previous owner didn't bother with cowl plugs so I just followed that. Half the people in my hangar do. Haven't heard of any problems with bird nests and with my big guppy mouth you'd think i would have seen it if it were likely. None of the locals have told me I'm crazy not to.

My guess is they didn't split the case. If they had there would be no reason not to take out the camshaft and measure it (unless they were just afraid of the answer they'd get I suppose). If they got a good look at the lobes and they looked fine that would still be good information to have. I bet their "almost complete overhaul" was a top overhaul. They should give you the actual time since the last overhaul. It would also be good to know what forced the top overhaul. The need for a couple top overhauls between majors shouldn't be accepted as normal.

Well I did get kind of a cheap one. Paid about $100 through Amazon to get an RCA Viking. I had googled "best deals in Android tablets". Maybe the battery was one place where they cut corners. I still like it better than sectionals.

Well I got an Android (RCA Viking) and downloaded Avare to it. So far I haven't got to fly with it but that brand new private pilot son of mine likes it great. I'm pretty sure it beats the pants off using sectionals. I also bought a premade Stratux unit but we'll be trying one new thing at a time so that's still in the box. Running Avare the the tablet batteries are good for a little over an hour, so I bought a cigarette lighter two port USB charger unit that also has an LED which tells the voltage going into it through Amazon. I'm working two hundred miles away and can't play with my new toys yet.

The idea of not using carb heat during landing blows my mind. The way you'd notice you needed carb heat in cruise would be an unexplained loss of power with other wise no change in settings. During landing you're manipulating the power settings and probably judging by the RPM since the prop is out of goverance. Same RPM gives same desired power if you're out of governance so everything would seem fine. You might notice the throttle feels a bit different (I'm figuring you'd have to give it a bit more throttle) to get the same power but I think it would sneak up on you. Finally you decide you need it and pull Carb Heat and start melting the ice. All the stories I've heard are that the engine coughs and sputters a bit and then finally roars back to life. I would never want to go through that on short final, or even anywhere in the pattern. Power loss if you forgot and left the heat on in a go around would be minimal. You'd still have plenty to get climbing. Your very ROP takeoff setting would be even richer with carb heat on since hot air is thinner (same takeoff fuel flow) so no worries about detonation. I don't quite treat the owners manual like a bible but I'll go with it here. Check out "By Don Maxwell Contributing Editor Mooney Airplane Pilots Association MAPA LOG, Published MAPA, Volume 24, Number 4 April 2001 This article actually came about after a call from Bob Kromer. Bob mentioned that the Mooney community had experienced a high number of carburetor ice incidents this season and that the NTSB had called with some concerns."

On my old 64 M20E I ran one tank to the point where the fuel pressure was starting to drop and move around, then switched to the other tank; it must have been sucking some bubbles. The next morning I could just see a little fuel coming out from under the rib that separates the two sections of my wet tank. So in my M20E when it disappears from sight (looking in the filler cap) it's just about to die. My fuel gauge isn't far wrong either; it was reading close to empty. I mainly trust the dip stick but the fuel gauges have value too and aren't quite worthless. I've run it dry once. I had plenty of altitude. It took me a little longer to restart than expected; I had it set up for low flow rate and LOP. Auxiliary pump and full rich brought it back quicker. I think you should set yourself up to run it dry at altitude. Even though you're expecting it you get busy with something else and...surprise. It's hard to train for surprises but this might actually give you an idea of how you respond. You get to spend a few seconds as a glider, sort things out, and then back to normal. With plenty of altitude pretty much zero risk (I my book no such thing as zero risk). Give yourself plenty of altitude and don't be in a high traffic area since you'll be distracted for a bit.

My old E model kept turning off toggle switches until I got new vibration mounts installed at my first annual. The instrument panel was just drooping too much. I would think that if you were over loading one circuit that would be the only one to trip off. Maybe when you set up for landing you set up a harmonic with panel that makes it just barely knock the switches off. I'm just guessing but what Yetti said rang a bell with me.

I'm drooling. I considered the 900 nm flight form Maine to the Nashville area. There and back in a day? I figured I'd just be too tired out in the end. I was up here at work in Boston and made a pinhole to show the 60% eclipse cast on a piece of paper.

Update: I'm still on the waiting list for my set of Halo's and the owner told me it will be 2-3 months. It seems he told his employees he's moving to a new location and a bunch of them jumped ship. There's also a hold-up on one of his raw materials. Ahhhhh. It sounds like it will be worth the wait but I want to try them out NOW! OK so I guess I'll try out my new Stratux instead.

When I did it I left the screws in place sticking out a quarter of an inch. Then I put a flat board and heavy weight on top and left it over night. The next morning one of the access was down and the other I put more weight (220 lbs) on it and it partially broke free. That one I had to work a thin putty knife around to get it off. I also took a file and rounded off the edges of the putty knife. If they haven't been touched for decades they can come off hard. I was concerned about bending and/or denting the aluminum. It worked out fine. I managed not to mess up the paint either.

OPENGL is a library of graphics routines, etc, that a programming language would use to save the programmer from having to write everything from scratch. Instead of having different programs repeat these routines over and over again and take up a lot of space, the programs that use them make calls to the library. Of course if the library isn't there they bomb, or tell you to load it up. I've used a version of the the GL graphics protocol called freeglut in my hobby programming. I've chosen to copy the part that comes from the GL-based library into my programs, so I can carry them to another computer, but it makes them very large. I imagine OPENGL ES3.0 is free and you can install it from their website. I guess if every program you download wants a different library you could end up with a different kind of memory bloat.

OpenGL is a graphics library. Programming languages use them so that a programmer doesn't have to rewrite everything from scratch.

Opps. I meant AvNav's EFB. As I read the responses it looks like almost anything I get will be fantastic compared to only using old style paper charts. I'm too lazy to try them all. I suspect I may end up using the first one I load up.

As part of my "Upgrading Dave" program I'm thinking about getting an electronic flight bag. While many have told me "Just get Foreflight on a good Ipad" I like to consider options and I've met a couple (well one) who like their Android. I also just came across the concept of Stratux ADS-B in that works with a big bunch of EFB's some of them Androids instead of Apples. So does anyone want to chime in for their favorite EFB? I had no idea there were so many options. AirNav's version has caught my eye. I don't have time to read about them all. I know the FAA publishes the geo-referenced charts for free so I'm inclined to be a CB but I don't mind paying a little fee if I get my money's worth. I'm pretty sure I'm going to try Stratux first for ADS-B in before I pay a lot for something costing more. I'm getting back to work at my real job now. Folks are looking at me funny because of the way I'm drooling.

Topic: Why Tolerate Radio Noise? on the www.eaa.org site.

Well I'm on the list for Halo's. I've also been talking to Headsets Inc and may upgrade my passive DC's. I'll be going over the electronics for bad ground's etc. I found a website that discussed how to track down noise originating from my own plane. Ignition and alternator are often culprits. I've been away from home for more than a week so I haven't had a chance yet. One way or another I'm going to get upgraded.

Why so many? One reason would be that Mooney get flown quite a bit. They're affordable and very attractive as a complex time builder. I agree that a brand new complex pilot may be the least likely to forget. I suspect there is a sour spot (opposite of sweet spot) in ones experience where you are getting comfortable with the whole thing and are ripe to get burned. I suspect I'm in that category at 450 hours, especially I'm since working on my instrument and everything else is getting more complicated.

I bought some stuff at the local Harley Davidson shop and it works great. They sold one item that was specifically for bug removal and works well on their windsreens. I also bought Novus 1 and Novus 2 to polish away fine scratches. They work great. If things are really bad there's Novus 3 that takes out the deeper scratches and then you work your way back through Novus 2 and Novus 1 to get to a like new surface. Mine wasn't that far gone and I never bought #3 which you would have to order special (the Harley store didn't carry #3). I also bought the micro mesh pads instead of just using paper towels and that was great but lately I've used paper towels and they seem OK too.