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carolinaflying

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  • Reg #
    6768N
  • Model
    M20C

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  1. Just transitioned this summer with similar experience to you. Gear up on takeoff gives you the Mooney wave until you get the Johnson bar movement in muscle memory. The variable speed prop took me a little to get used to, but feels second nature after several hours. I was flaring too high according to my instructor and trying to land with too much of a nose up attitude which he said is common with Cessna pilots. We practiced a lot of cross wind landings as I liked to crab into the wind on approach and land somewhat askew in the Cessna. With a retract, too much side load could collapse the gear so we practiced the proper cross wind landing technique. He liked the fact this was my first retract experience as I was quite paranoid about gear down and locked. GUMPS multiple times on final. It wasn't as hard to slow down as I imagined, gear down and full flaps felt similar to me as the Cessna. Have fun!
  2. Having never done that can you advise what it's like when that happens? Obviously you are anticipating that, but how much warning do you get when the tank is finally dry?
  3. Curious for your thoughts since the mechanic is closed today. Last night I took my 68 M20C out for the first night flight. I wanted to be by myself since I've already found a number of things that need to be fixed in daylight hours! Everything pre-flighted fine and off I went. On my second approach to landing, all three of my light toggle switches simultaneously flipped off on short final. I was only on the yoke and throttle at the time. Safe landing and tried to pop the landing light back on the runway to no avail. During taxi back to tie down I was able to get all of the lights back on and they stayed on until shut down. My radios and transponder worked normal and the electric fuel pump worked fine as well. No over voltage light (but it's never illuminated so it could be burned out) and amps were fine once I was able to get light on the instrument. No popping, crackling, or electrical burning smell. The flight lasted a total of 25 minutes from crank up to shut down. It was a warm summer evening but nothing ridiculous. As I research online and play the scenario back in my head, I'm almost wondering if the lights overheating would cause this problem? No circuit breakers blew but I understand these toggle switches act as a circuit breaker as well. The fact they would not switch back on immediately but did within a few minutes of failure prior to shutdown leads me to believe whatever that was too hot had cooled enough. If I had an overloaded circuit I imagine I would have experienced the issue sooner than 20 minutes, loose wire or ground would show intermittent issues instead of all 3 immediately shutting down? I had left my landing light on the entire flight due to staying in the pattern. I had not been adjusting anything electrical after my run up, just power adjustments. Since my landing light is old school, my initial guess is it got too hot and blew my circuit but I am open to hearing your opinions as my electrical expertise usually involves shocking myself. Needless to say, no more night flights until this gremlin is fixed! Thanks
  4. Since I already feel like a clown squeezing into his car, how have you found entry/exit with this setup?
  5. Before this thread gets hijacked again with locker room humor, can I ask that any further replies stay on the original topic?
  6. Almost too nice to throw on the ground!
  7. My repair is complete for now. I have attached the instructions I used as a guide with my pictures and comments added in red. If you don't have time to read it all, my conundrum is described below. I'd appreciate any educated thoughts on why I'm still having problems. While my repair was partly a success, it was not complete. The knob will open the vent from inside but will not close it. When fully open, I cannot push the vent down from the outside but the only way to close it is to crank inside to fully closed and then push down from outside. After multiple troubleshooting methods, I resigned myself to the fact something must be wrong with the shroud itself in an area I did not expose. As I stated earlier, I did not open every interior cover due to them being sealed and not wanting to reseal everything myself. My only guess is that something is supposed to hold the shroud in place as it travels from the vent to the knob and that piece is no longer holding properly. My guess is there is just enough play due to this movement that it cannot fully close. My game plan is to uncover this during my first owner assisted annual and troubleshoot some more. MooneyOverheadFreshAirVentRepair-woPartsBD.docx.docx
  8. It has been a few years, but I used @rogrbal instructions above to complete my project. I added photos to his instructions with his permission and my comments are added in red. Hopefully this helps your next project if you have a similar problem! MooneyOverheadFreshAirVentRepair-woPartsBD.docx.docx
  9. Own a 1968 M20C based at UZA. Possibly parked next to Merrja, small world! I'll be out Friday afternoon and will PM you my cell if you are interested.
  10. Thanks Hank, that's what I was afraid of. Back to figuring out where that inch is disappearing to.
  11. Appreciate it. I saw your advice to others and checked that already. Surprisingly enough it's in good shape and draining well! I can tell this wire had already been replaced before so I imagine the drain was repaired earlier too.
  12. I've been reading your posts for several months now and have learned a ton, thanks! I was hoping to have something better as my first post, but here goes. I recently purchased my first plane, 1968 M20C. I am now in the middle of my first owner repair, air scoop wire snapped mid flight. Thanks to previous MS posts, I found thorough instructions on how to complete it. My question is how much wire do you see exposed in the fully open position? When I measure at the crank end, I'm seeing about 1.5 inches of movement but at the exterior scoop end I'm only seeing .5 inches at fully open. I doubt the curvature of the crank accounts for that much of a discrepancy but when I tug on the wire from the outside I cannot get anything more. If someone with an intact scoop can advise a measurement, I would be grateful before I close everything back up. FYI, taking lots of photos and planning on updating the instructions I'm using to hopefully save the next poor guy some time!
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