BigTex

I personally cruise at 2400 and WOT when at altitude. Seems to work well for me. I also had my prop dynamically balanced at 2400 and it seems to make a much smoother running engine.

Out of curiosity it sounds like you're ready to sell even it the engine isn't run out. Are you looking at some other type of plane or wanting to get out of airplane ownership all together? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The O-360 engine is extremely easy to start compared to its IO brother. I turn boost pump on until 6 PSI is reached then off. Pump twice with a slight drop in fuel pressure each time. Then crack the throttle and crank. If your engine doesn't start in the first couple of turns, somethings not right. Check mags, plugs and carb. I'd personally not fly the plane until I figure it out. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I had to remove and reinstall Tapatalk on my iPad. That got it working again. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm afraid you might of missed your window to sell your plane without taking a bath on it. With 2100 hours on it you must of known you were on borrowed time. I'd personally have the engine overhauled and enjoy the plane for another 500 hours then think about selling it. Your plan us really nice so you should be able to get top dollar for it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good luck with the cables... I did the mixture and prop cables and it was a real bear.

If you live in the Houston area, Avionics Unlimited in Conroe is one of the best. Address: 10015 Military Dr # C, Conroe, TX 77303 Phone:(936) 788-7333

I flew my plane to Don Maxwell's with the intention of having the 201 style windshield installed. After talking with Don and looking at a few with the mod I opted to replace my two-piece windshield with a one piece. Tons cheaper and is basically a drop-in replacement. I also personally think vintage Mooney's look funny unless you also install the 201 cowl. For me, I think it screws up the lines of the vintage planes.

It's a beautiful looking plane and it's hard to go wrong with an M20E. I HAVE to ask... What's under the car cover?

Hi Barcho - I'm a little confused. Your profile said that you own a M20E. Is that what you own or something you want? Also, your question was pretty open ended. What are you looking for in regards to you average mission? Overall look for a Mooney that is corrosion free, contains ALL the avionics you'd like, decent paint and a mid-time engine that is in your price range and you'll likely have a winner. Get a quality pre-buy done to detect issue like leaking tanks, etc. and you should be in good shape. Finally, set aside 20% of the purchase price to fix deferred maintenance items. It's a rare plane that you'll not use up that 20% fixing crap that was deferred no matter the condition of the aircraft. So make sure you factor that into your purchase.

What kind of work are you needing done? If you're looking for annuals and/or Mooney specific work, then go to Don's place. Being on the east side of the Bravo airspace, it would likely be faster to go to Don's than dealing with DFW as Meacham is on the other side of the airspace. If it's something other than an annual and/or Mooney specific work, find a good A&P on your home field and use them. I'm based at Denton (KDTO) and that's what I do.

Still wouldn't fly it until it's fixed. Even on jacks you should be able to swing the gear, both up and down, without any effort.

Something is definitely not right. Mine almost leaps to the down position. All I do is guide it into place and give it a tug downward to make sure it's latched. I don't even think I use the thumb latch in the process. If you have to use two hands, don't fly it until it's figured out.

What is the price?

That's what she said...

What expenses...

Are you sure the 201 gauges would even fit? My panel doesn't have any space for a row of guages.

Hi Jim - How much and what type of engine? Here's what Lycoming has to say about making metal: 8. Evidence of metal contamination found in the oil filter element or suction screen requires further examination to determine the cause. Below is a list of recommended actions based on the appearance and approximate quantity of particles found in the oil filter/suction screen. Continue performing steps a. through d. until there is no further evidence of metal contamination in the oil filter element or suction screen. If at any time the amount of metal contamination equals or exceeds what is stated in steps e. through j. remove engine from service. a. 1 to 9 small (1/16 inch diameter of less) pieces of magnetic or nonmagnetic metal – change oil filter and clean suction screen, drain oil, and refill. Place aircraft back in service and check oil filter or screen at next scheduled oil change/oil filter replacement. b. 10 to 20 small (1/16 inch diameter or less) pieces of shiny flake-like, nonmagnetic, or 10 or fewer short hair-like pieces of magnetic material – change oil filter and clean suction screen, drain oil, and refill. Place engine back in service and again check oil filter or suction screen after 25 hours of engine operation. c. 20 to 40 small pieces as in step b. – change oil filter and clean suction screen, drain oil, and refill. Place the aircraft back in service and check oil filter or suction screen after 10 hours of engine operation. d. As in step b., but larger amount, such as 45-60 small pieces – change oil filter and clean suction screen, drain oil, and refill. Run engine on ground for 20-30 minutes. Inspect oil filter suction screen. If clean, fly aircraft for 1 to 2 hours and again inspect oil filter/suction screen. If clean, inspect oil filter/suction screen after 10 hours of engine operation. NOTE In items e. through j. below, the engine must be removed from service until the source of the metal is determined and corrective maintenance has been accomplished. e. Pieces of metal ranging in size of broken lead pencil point (1/16 inch diameter) or larger. Remove suction (sump) screen to check for pieces of metal that may have fallen into the sump. In any event, ground aircraft and conduct investigation. A mixture of magnetic and nonmagnetic material in this case often times means a valve or ring and piston failure. Removing bottom spark plugs usually reveals the offending cylinder. f. Nonmagnetic plating averaging approximately 1/16 inch in diameter; may have copperish tint. Quantity found – 1/4 teaspoonful or more; ground aircraft and investigate. g. Same as in step b. but may be slightly larger in size and minus copperish tint. On direct drive engines, propeller action may be impaired. Ground aircraft and investigate. h. Nonmagnetic metal brass or copperish color. Resembles coarse sand in consistency. Quantity of 1/4 teaspoonful or more – ground aircraft and investigate. i. Anytime metal is found in the amount of 1/2 teaspoonful or more, it is justification for engine removal. Ground aircraft and investigate. j. If any single or several pieces of magnetic or nonmagnetic metal larger than previously mentioned in steps e. through i. Ground aircraft and investigate. NOTE If the origin of the metal contamination cannot be determined, a call may be made to the Lycoming Product Support Department. A good description (photographs, color and quantity, etc.) of the metal may result in placing its origin. When phoning Lycoming or when returning metal removed from engines, supply the complete engine model designation, serial number, history of engine, oil temperature, oil pressures, and any unusual behavior of the engine on the ground or during flight. Do not ship material to Lycoming without first calling the Product Support Department. 9. If examination of the oil filter or suction screen, per the above, indicates abnormal aluminum or iron content, contact a technical representative of the Lycoming Product Support Department at 1-800-258-3279. NOTE Warranty for the metal analysis is available for engines listed under Models Affected only if the engine from which the sample is taken is a new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine from the Lycoming factory.

Looks like a Polished Mooney M20F has just hit the market... we're not alone.. http://www.barnstormers.com/listing_images.php?id=1049210&ZOOM=650eda9776aef2a8e03fdf02677f1056

So Greg, why did you go against conventional wisdom and elected to not obtain transition training? Inquiring minds want to know.

That's who I used and they did a great job. The cluster came back looked brand new.

I just toss mine on the glare shield just left of the compass. Nothing fancy. If I wasn't so lazy I'd mount it someone in the hat rack... maybe a winter project.

Maybe I'm missing something but your GTX330ES/GNS430 combo will not provide any ADS-B In traffic without a GDL-88. Your combo only complies with the 2020 ADS-B out requirement. What you will get when in and around Class Bravo airspace is TIS-A, not TIS-B traffic. It looks similar on the display but when you get 30-40 miles outside Class B airspace, you'll loose all traffic.

It's very difficult to achieve proficiency in a tailwheel aircraft in less than 10 hrs. There's just too many aspects of flying tailwheel aircraft you can't experience without putting in the hours. Just getting proficient with wheel landing in a crosswind on a paved runway can take 5+ hours. There's a touch you have to develop to be able to arrest your decent and fly the plane on and apply forward stick at the exact right point to plant the plane on the runway. Some things can't be rushed.

Why don't you just loosen up the turn coordinator and give it a turn until the ball is centered? You can tell by the seat of your pants if you're coordinated.