47U

We’re still referencing the master relay, correct? Mx Manual 106, pg 9-129. Original installation by the factory was manufactured by Cutler Hammer, pn 6041-H-231. Several used examples on controller.com, and BAS lists them on their website, also. https://www.controller.com/parts/search?PartNumber=6041-H-231&SearchType=Start I think Spruce sells TSO’d replacements… if you’re looking for a new one.

Look on the BK website… https://aerospace.honeywell.com/us/en/products-and-services/products/cabin-and-cockpit/avionics/autopilots-and-indicators/aerocruze-100-autopilot#resources-tab

Is the installation of the ALY-8520 accomplished with an STC? I’d think that paperwork would include the part numbers for the brackets? If I remember, @Ragsf15ehad an F model (and he’s since upgraded to the Encore) but if you can track down the STC paperwork that might help your search for the right bracket.

I did almost the same, but used a scrap piece of baffle. Not installed yet in the picture, I ran a .032” safety wire between the screws so the baffle wouldn’t fall off. (And I replaced the exhaust ball-joint hardware with castellated nuts and cotter pins.) The landing light lens cover may cure more vibration than you realize. When previous owner installed the 3-blade McCauley, he didn’t like the vibes. Had the prop dynamically balanced, still not happy. Smoothing of the cowling surface with the lens cover is what finally made him happy.

Someone with real J-model knowledge will be along shortly… A ‘78 J would be an early serial number, yes? Would the applicable figure in the IPC be 71-10-00? Index 27 and 28 relevant to the cowl flap hinge, with Note 3 reference to using -500 part numbers (depending on the serial number) and SB M20-231. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-231.pdf Regardless of everything I said above, try a longer bolt to get two or three threads protrusion through the nutplate. Or, do the M20-131 (if it applies).

Thanks for posting the Type Certificate excerpt. A caution to the early short-body owners, your IPC may show a 4-ply tire on the nose. When the F/G models came out in ‘68, the IPC showed a 6-ply tire on the nose and a 4-ply tire on the C/D/E. The 6-ply tire is listed in the last version of the vintage models IPC, Manual 205. The 4-ply tire was removed altogether.

https://www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net It was maybe five years ago when they did the 500 hr on my right mag on my ‘63C. They identified the wrong model mag was installed (who knew?), but they worked with me to make it right.

Not that I’m doubting your statement… when do you hear this squeaking? Have you hit all the zerks on the gear to make sure it’s not a dry bushing? Probably some version of silicone spray would not damage the donuts. Read the label before application. Someone with better perspective will be along shortly…

I’m speculating… originally Mooney thought that air flowing through the heat muff would lower the muffler temperature, perhaps extending the life of the muffler (?). It is odd, though, that the factory decided to just weld a plate over the outlet to close off the exhaust valve. And then keep the double linkage through the dump valve to actuate the carb heat? Doesn’t seem very well thought out. (Or, maybe the picture below was modified after it left the factory?) They must have had a bunch of the old air boxes in stock and used them to save money, rather than redesign the carb heat system without the dump valve.

Consider asking your A&P to add the hose to the carb heat dump valve. The hose is routed to the left exhaust cavity and gets the hot muffler air out of the lower cowl. And the linkage wire to actuate the dump valve looks a little banged up…

Yes, the dome nuts have ears for rivets to secure them to the panel and keep the fastener from turning. (Apologies for saying the obvious.) I don’t see any ears on the nuts on your access panels. Maybe it’s some other kind of anchor method (fixed into the plate?), or maybe I’m not seeing clearly, but I hope you are able to figure out a solution so you can get back into the air. Another pic from the archives… even with sealant, the nut plate ears are obvious. You’re on the right track on access panel installation. The mx manual provides some guidance there.

The alphabetical parts listing in the early IPC (‘61-‘64) includes the dome nut plate, pn ESNA-22-NAIK-02, applicable to production serial number 1701 and on. The mx manual (104) addresses sealing of fasteners and nut plates only in generic language. Whoever used plain nuts installing the fuel access panels didn’t follow the IPC for proper hardware, in my opinion.

I remain confused. But, I’m not a fuel tank guy, either. By not employing nut plates, dome or not, how do you hold the nuts from turning when the last access panel is installed to close up the tank? And how are those nuts sealed? Installing hardware with sealant isn’t unheard of, but mostly as last-ditch effort to stop a leak and avoid pulling an access panel to make a proper repair. Maybe I should go read a mx manual… Glad you have a way forward.

Near as I can tell, fuel tank access panels are pn 210099-1. Same part number top and bottom access panels. Same part number in the mid-60s IPC, so there should be some available through the salvage yards, for sure.

Hangtown Aviation in Placerville (PVF). Brandon is honest. He repaired fuselage tubes under the pilot’s window on a really nice J model. It was perfect. LIncoln Skyways (LHM) has worked on Mooney’s, but I’ve heard they can be pricey.

Top and bottom panels installed without using dome nuts. That’s a challenge. How did they put that together? Anyone? Can you access through the fuel sender hole in the cabin? It’s not very big, but I think less challenging than the filler neck on top of the wing. In the end, you may end up with the suggestion by @Aerodon and cut access holes in the panels. I’m thinking the panels would have been made on a fixture so the hole pattern ‘should’ match.

The ‘approved’ way, would be to pull the panel on the top of the wing, then you have access to the nuts. Remove the improper hardware, install dome nuts, reseal the panel, and reseal the top panel. After cure check of the sealant, leak check the tank with full fuel. I don’t think you’ll have any luck trying to reseal the hardware fishing through the fueling port. I think you’ll end up pulling the top panel, regardless. Making a big mess with sealant inside the tank could create a safety of flight issue. If your tank sealant is in otherwise good condition, you might get by (for a while) just resealing the hardware that’s leaking. Probably remove the hardware, strip the area, reinstall the hardware, and then sealant. Not sure if your A&P would concur with that option. It would not be IAW any Mooney tank repair guidance I’m aware of… surely (?) Mooney used dome nuts in the tanks in the B model. You might check to see if the other tank uses the same hardware. When was the last tank work done in the logbooks?

Original manufacturer Micro was bought by Honeywell. You can probably find the suitable sub on their website, or any of the big warehouses (Mouser, Digikey, etc.). If the pn crosses to a mil-spec, that’s good enough for approved replacement. Actually, most of the major electronics manufacturers meet some type of standard that is good enough to be installed as a ‘standard part.’ Or try a salvage yard… https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/switches/toggle-switches/ts-series/documents/sps-siot-microswitch-ts-toggle-ps-005427-4-en-ciid-145144.pdf

ACK! As Bill the Cat might say? I’m thinking transponder, and writing ELT. I plead late night induced sleep-surfing. Thanks for the correction, I’ll change my post for clarity and will try tp do better in the future.

Peyronie’s disease? (Sorry, Rich, but I couldn’t help myself.)

Welcome, bradcarr. Sorry you’re having these issues, but the longer you own your plane, the newer it will be… someone here (I think) says that. The gouges on the aileron rod look pretty fresh. If the wing-to-body fairing were removed during the annual inspection (or prebuy), and then reinstalled with the screw that’s too long, that would be an explanation. The drag on movement might be negligible and not heard in a noisy environment. It’s still not right by any means, but putting panels on might be the job of the less experienced mechanic’s helper. The damage should be checked for depth within tolerance, any burrs removed, and some primer applied. and the correct length screws installed. The fuel leaks on top of the wing should be (should have been) investigated. It doesn’t look like ‘normal’ fuel stains to me anyway. Generally they are either blue streaking/stains or if very, very slight seepage, brown stains. It almost looks like someone rubbed some type of oyltite product on the surface as a (temporary) repair. The ELT TRANSPONDER antenna broken… very unfortunate. I’m no expert in avionics, but I don’t know if I’ve seen an ELT TRANSPONDER antenna mounted on the top of the fuselage. And the skin in the area has been touched up, poorly by appearances as it’s now peeling paint. It looks like there’s a blade antenna in the ELT TRANSPONDER/DME frequency installed behind the exhaust, on the bottom of the fuselage (blurry in the picture of the wing-to-body fairing) in the more traditional ELT TRANSPONDER antenna location… I’d investigate what the broken antenna is hooked up to. As far as the throttle/prop cables… I’d recommend replacement. It would have been nice if the prebuy and annual would have made a note, but I think it’s time. McFarlane is the place I’d go for cables. The oil cooler hose on the firewall behind the prop cables support looks suspect, too. Check the logs for install dates on all the hoses. Where are you based? Post some pics of your new to you bird. You’re asking the right questions and that gains you the knowledge to be an experienced owner. Stay involved with your airplane and you’ll be fine… keep us updated on your progress. There’s a lot of really smart people here so don’t be afraid to ask the questions. Wishing you good luck in with future ownership challenges.

Which the plastic washers help to prevent the tendency to over-torque the screws. Tighten the screws to ‘snug’ (a technical term). And that’s it.

And where was it leaking from the first time you had it fixed?

It sucks when you’ve done nothing wrong but still draw the short straw. I’m thinking this NOS was built by Mooney, and then languished on some MSC’s inventory (perhaps for decades) until it ended up on eBay. Obviously the factory’s quality control was lacking at the time it was manufactured. There could be something nefarious involved, but I doubt it. This isn’t a deal breaker. You’ll get it straightened out and 10 years from now it will almost surely be just a distant memory. Many (most?) of us have experienced maintenance issues that went sideways. Keep focused on the brass ring. You’ll get there.

That’s a bummer… hopefully, eBay will give you recourse. Is your old mount beyond repair? I’ve seen some mounts with very elegant patchwork, compound curves and everything…