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47U

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Everything posted by 47U

  1. A healthy ingnition system is key to satisfactory run-ups. What are the condition of the mags/ignition harness? Have you ohmed the plugs? Is the Tempest BY plug an option for your A1A engine? I’m with @201Steve… borescope the cylinder. Your A&P must have pretty good ears to hear air hissing in the oil fill tube with an only 3 psi drop during the compression check.
  2. With the 201 windshield, do you have the small triangular panels? Otherwise, I’m guessing access is problematic. When the brakes were solid, did the parking brake hold then? Or was it always slipping… Sounds like @Andy95W has the inside track on troubleshooting. Once you identify which valve you have, the o-ring part numbers are in the mx manual (104). Or, depending on which valve, a replacement/salvage valve might be in your future.
  3. Scott… do you have an external leak? Does the parking brake actuate but not hold pressure to the brakes? Is the cable functional throughout its full travel… or stiff from lack of lubrication and decades of neglect (obviously, neglect from previous owners).
  4. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SIM20-137.pdf A few months ago I ordered the kit from the factory through LASAR. I think they might sell the placards separately.
  5. Yes, someone did replace the 3-piece panel with a single sheet. Don’t remember who. It looked great, although compound curves in aluminum would have me turning out some scrap on at least the first attempt, maybe two attempts. As an alternative, just replace the center section (with the antenna hole in it) with a new piece of aluminum (mine is that way). Sure, the single piece will be less likely to leak, but there’s many posts on how to successfully seal up the avionics panel. And, if you keep it as a 3-piece, if you need to access only one side you can do that without removing the whole panel.
  6. My best guess? It’s a typo. Your yoke shafts should be pn 710005-1/-2. Fig 29, Ind 1 (pg 120) shows 720005-501 as the rudder torque tube assy (in front of the rudder pedals). Further, the part number/page cross reference shows 710005-000 on page 114, which is where the yoke shafts are depicted.
  7. My ‘63C has the yoke installed with an AN3-14A bolt, no tapered pin. My (very brief) research shows the tapered pin shows up starting with production in 1965? I replaced my control shafts this past summer retiring the 500 hr AD inspection. Mooney had them in stock.
  8. LASAR is still rebuilding the nose gear truss, although they are (apparently?) in (extended?) consultation with their FSDO. They told me over a month ago they needed a signature from the FAA and then they’ll ship me the part.
  9. This one? https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-222B.pdf
  10. Mine was way worse than that and I didn’t have any shimmy either. I don’t think what you have is all that unusual, but someone with experience over many airframes will be along shortly. To address it, I’d start with the steering link. LASAR overhauled mine, just north of one amu. And they added a zerk so it can be lubricated.
  11. Forgive this unasked for advice… ask the mechanic to check the free-running torque on the nutplate. With a new screw, it may be ok. Or, maybe all the screws should be replaced. You certainly don’t want to over torque spinner screws, but they shouldn’t be falling out in flight, either.
  12. Is it possible to dent the truss with only the hand tow bar? The 1/32” limit isn’t very much. Since 2008, my airplane has only been moved under tug one time, by Dugosh at KERV. I doubt they exceeded the limits. The previous 35 years under the prior owner, I don’t know. I pulled the nose gear out to clean up the slop in the bolts, bushings, biscuits, and paint (obviously). The replacement from LASAR is due to ship any day… I’m looking forward to installing a truss with the steering stops and I’ve got the steering limit pointer SB on hand.
  13. Maybe… paint tow bar limit stripes on the aircraft nose like my -135 had? (To heck with paint scheme aesthetics?)
  14. It’s leaking somewhere in the internals. Someone here knows which ball/seat it is, but (pending expert replies) perhaps taking the pump apart and under close visual inspection you can determine what seal/ball is not sealing correctly.
  15. Advise caution using a big flat washer which compresses the slip joint between #1 and #3 cylinders. There might be a crack developing in the #3 baffle. On my doghouse I filed out the slip joints to make space for the washers. But only after my IA pointed out that the #2 cylinder baffle had cracked. Which then I got to do the patch and then I filed the slip joints to make clearance for the flat washers.
  16. A picture the tube in the video before it was cut out of the aircraft. The video estimates 10 amu for the repair. That was a few years ago, probably more now. Hangtown Aviation in Placerville did the repair. When it was finished, you could not tell that any work had been done, paint included.
  17. The brake calipers in my Cherokee (circa 1998) were so neglected that the cylinders were corroded on the outer surface, past where the o-ring rides. The wetted area of the cylinder was fine. But, when the pads were worn down to the rivets the o-ring was now trying to seal against the rough cylinder wall surface and the leak ensued. I was able to clean up the surface with emory cloth and scotchbrite. And new break disks that didn’t wear the pads out every year.
  18. Here’s a link to catch you up… there is a lot of thread drift in areas, but if you have the time to sift through…
  19. I can remove my battery box in less than 10 minutes. I have the avionics access panels (no 201 windshield mod) in my ‘63C. I can reach the nuts on the inside sticking my right arm through the avionics access and my left hand on the engine-side of the firewall. This is possible because my avionics guy does a very clean installation. Artwork even, if you will. If your wiring is haphazard, you might not be able to do this. Or, with a lot of work, the battery could be moved to the aft avionics bay, if your CG supports that change.
  20. Not really a mod. As near as I can tell, when the E was introduced in 1964 it had the doghouse. When the F came along in 1967, it had an open baffle system. The E adopted the open baffle in 1968. The C/G had the doghouse throughout their production runs. I’m sure there are some C/G’s out there with an open baffle, either through a cowling STC or field approval, but there are complications to be solved when going down that road. If @Sabremech has a moment perhaps he can share a thought.
  21. With you and the instructor and no other (significant) weight in the back seats or baggage compartment, the CG will be forward. When the trim is run full up and full down to the stops, how do the respective markings line up then? I’m almost always solo in my C and set the trim indicator about one bar-width above the takeoff mark. When I have the back seats filled, it’s aligned with the takeoff mark. When solo, I also land with close to full nose-up trim.
  22. For parts, Manual 205 in the downloads section. https://mooneyspace.com/files/file/176-m20-series-parts-catalog-1968-1978-2pdf/?do=download&csrfKey=9194640cfba33877f31feb0dd4d9ce1f
  23. I didn’t receive this notice, but a similar one. LASAR requested the steering horn they overhauled for me last March needed to go back to them as it had missed ‘an administrative step’ in their certification process. I’m guessing possibly related to working under a new FSDO since their move to Prineville? Fortunately, all the quality control steps were performed, and they had it turned around and shipped back to me in just one or two days. And, fortunate for me, I hadn’t installed it in the aircraft yet as I’m still going through my nose gear rebuild. For once, procrastination worked in my favor.
  24. Try these… https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-93.pdf https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-99.pdf
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