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47U

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Everything posted by 47U

  1. This might be the prop control version you have…
  2. Located in SOCAL… https://timsaircraft.com/contact/
  3. Now I’ve embarrassed myself… I’ll just delete the previous mistake and let sleeping dogs lie… Thank you.
  4. Are you looking for the panel footprint? I know the brochure says brand ‘C and P’… but the same control head options are used in the STC Duncan got approved for Mooney. I can only guess that the same supply chain issues getting parts for the Duncan/Mooney STC install is also affecting parts availability to do new installs in brand C and P?
  5. The amount of available panel space might influence your decision… The ACK E-04 control panel has a pretty small footprint. But, wow, the 406 ELTs have gone up a lot in price the last few years.
  6. controller.com https://www.controller.com/parts/search?PartNumber=D6502&SearchType=Start
  7. Sometimes mx induced. There is a right way to add weight during a dynamic prop balance, and (in this case) a wrong way. Good luck in your search for a backplate.
  8. To keep the smoke in? (Sorry… I couldn’t resist.) Seriously, sealing the rivet won’t keep the two assemblies the rivet is fastening together from movement against each other, or the rivet, whichever is the case causing the smoke. The rivet should be drilled out and reshot.
  9. I replaced the engine shock mounts on my C without removing the engine mount from the firewall. I disconnected the throttle/prop/mixture controls, wiring harnesses, etc., and hung the engine on a hoist. Not a fun job, but doable. Just make sure the alignment pins are in the correct orientation, or you might end up with this, which I discovered on a couple of the old shock mount washers. I think the IO-360 engine mounts may not have alignment pins like the O-360 engine mounts… not for sure, though. Previous owner (and me) flew for years and years with the hole in the engine mount not lined up correctly, deforming the washer.
  10. Yes, you might be crazy, but that doesn’t mean it won’t work out for you. For your purposes (building time), the B model is the same as the C model. The vintage Mooney’s are not hard to land, but you need to stay on speed or you’ll float forever in the flare. I don’t think the complexity will be an issue and obviously your instructor doesn’t, either. If you can deal with all the risks associated with buying an airplane unknown to you (many threads on that subject), and have resources for unscheduled repairs (ballpark 40 amu for an engine overhaul) and fixed costs (hangar, insurance, taxes), I would be in support of you undertaking this adventure.
  11. Perhaps the baggage floor is not primary structure, but consider that the front section is riveted to an aluminum angle that is bolted to fittings attached to the aft end of the fuselage tubing. The other three sides are riveted to the longerons on the sides and the first bulkhead aft of the fuselage tube structure. There is no monocoque skin on the bottom of the fuselage under the baggage floor. Instead, it’s the flap torque tube access panel… and the baggage floor. There’s the stub spar and wing structure forward of that, but I’m not sure how much longitudinal support that provides. Disclaimer… I am not a structural engineer and I’m not trying to impersonate one.
  12. AN5525-1… now MS28034-1, only $840 on Aircraft Spruce. Do some troubleshooting… thread on oil temp below might have some relevancy.
  13. The crack in the stub spar might be hard to see. To look for a crack, first pump the flaps all the way down. The flap torque tube tries to rotate the torque tube support bracket that is bolted to the stub spar and the crack will be more visible. That’s how I discovered my stub spar was cracked. Flaps are up in this pic. See a crack? I don’t… But it was there. And not a small crack, either.
  14. Yes, what Sabremech says. He types faster than I do! I remove the battery box for left mag work. There are two bolts on the back of the battery box that go through the firewall, one of the nuts is near the parking brake valve. There are also two bolts on the two struts that hold up the front end of the battery box. One of those is in the footwell, forward of the rudder pedals. If you’re lucky (like I am) I can get my right arm through the avionics access panel and reach all four nuts on the cockpit side of the firewall. Otherwise, if you can’t get your arm down there, or, if you don’t have the avionics access panels (sometimes removed with a 201 windshield upgrade), someone will be standing on their head under the panel to reach the nuts. I replaced the battery box bottom in 2010… in this pic you can see the bolt locations in the two front struts.
  15. I reviewed the Airplane Flight Manual for my ‘63C, revised 17 Apr 63. I found no reference to the speaker anywhere, including the Equipment List (dated 11 Jul 63). I don’t think the speaker is required equipment. My serial number is 2552, so (based on tail numbers) my C was somewhere ahead of yours on the production line. However, I would vote to keep it for all those reasons listed above. If it’s not working, there might be some troubleshooting of wiring involved to determine the reason why. My speaker is original and works fine. Knife connectors and all. If you do decided to pull the speaker out, I imagine you would placard the audio panel speaker button as “INOP” and your A&P would make that part of the logbook entry removing it.
  16. Yeah, it’s been a few years, but I think I called them. I needed a new flap/trim indicator placard, which the nice lady said that it’s such a small job she sent me two of them for free. So I try to send them some business when the opportunity arrises. I not sure what a full set would cost.
  17. http://www.aerographics.com/images/documents/kits/interior/Mooney_M20_Series_Interior_AeroGraphics_Placards.pdf
  18. Sometimes, a couple bursts of shop air up through the sump drain clears debris that is stuck to the o-ring. If you have tank sealant and/or top coat degradation generating debris, the shop air trick is going to be short term.
  19. Found one on controller.com… but it’s in Germany.
  20. Burying antennas and reducing the number of screws is secondary to me. I want the access for inspection and maintenance. Photo credit to @Sabremech
  21. Welcome, Bill! Not sure where you are located, but Knisley in Loomis, CA (Sacramento area) has a PMA exhaust for vintage Mooneys. They might need to see the orientation of the cold air intake on the muffler shroud to get it right. https://knisleyexhaust.com Are you still running a generator? If you’ve upgraded to an alternator, have you considered a PowerFlow exhaust?
  22. Attaching some pictures I snapped before removal - looks to me like the cable is oriented to the right, but better to have a second set of eyes. The mechanic double checked the model #, but I will ask again. Your prop control cable support bracket will bolt right onto the ATH-1 governor. They supply the matching bracket on the governor. And…you might consider changing out the ball/socket rod end for a Heim bearing on your prop control cable. It’s much less prone to failure.
  23. Just to be clear, reindexing the control arm on the shaft is NOT permitted. Loosening the six screws (they don’t have to be removed) and rotating the internal assembly in the outer housing gives you all the adjustment you need to fine-tune the desired cushion on the prop control cable.
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