47U

Do you have a SureFly mag? They require a hot lead per the installation documents, often taken from the master relay..

EricJ is certainly correct. And I am not an engine guy (I have more experience on the J-57 and TF-33). How many hours on the engine/cylinder? Perhaps have the compression on that cylinder checked when it goes in the shop for the next oil change and not wait until the annual? It can be surprising how fast a cylinder can go south. Couple years ago, at the annual, my #2 cylinder was 36/80. Borescope showed green on the exhaust valve. I talked to the engine shop (with pics) and shipped them the cylinder for overhaul. Since I had R2’d the #3 cylinder the year before (broken exhaust valve guide), I resolved to check compressions and borescope at every oil change. Fast forward 11 tach hrs, I’m changing the oil for the break-in of the #2 cylinder. Did my compression checks, #1 cylinder was in the mid-50s, down from 70/80 at the annual, just 11 hrs ago. Exhaust valve leaking air, but the valve did not show visible signs of distress. Opted to lap it in place… and the compression then dropped to 30/80. The valve stem was sloppy in the guide. Cylinder sent to the shop for overhaul. Shop said the valve was close to being swallowed. Not fond of running on three cylinders. Would the #1 cylinder exhaust valve have lasted until the next annual, probably 80 or 90 hrs on the tach? Sorry to high jack your thread. I’m sure your shop knows what they are doing, certainly they know more about your situation than I do.

That stood out to me, too. What was the compression after lapping the valve? And, what does “gained access to the exhaust valve” mean? Did they just removed the rocker box cover? Or did they remove the cylinder? Not sure what replacing exhaust gaskets has to do with clearance to the bottom cowl, but I’m not a J owner… Talk nice with them, from what I read on the forum, your shop may be the exception to many shops.

For the yoke ball joints in the panel. I think that’s the only application for the C-model. When I did my yoke shaft service bulletin, I replaced the phenolic balls and applied graphite powder spray.

Corroded like this. After I made the purchase in 2008, at the first annual I addressed this. My springs were still loose, but… wow. LASAR had new springs and I stripped and painted all the gear rods. And all the flight control rods, too.

Can’t blame them for that…

If the aircraft has aft cg issues, why was the battery moved to the tail? What is the empty weight arm? My C is at 43.95”. With my 3-blade McCauley, battery on the firewall, starter, and generator, I’m forward cg challenged with the front seats filled. I have to add weight to the baggage compartment. A ‘65 C on the ramp is moving his battery aft to rectify forward cg issues (also has a 3-blade prop). As @Scooter and @Z W suggested, a review of the wt & bal history may be beneficial. I found numerous errors when I reviewed mine. If you have the amu’s, go for the yaw damper (dampener?). As @donkaye, MCFI says, 1.4 lbs isn’t much. Offset that with a lightweight battery.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/clite.php?clickkey=328210

We’re still referencing the master relay, correct? Mx Manual 106, pg 9-129. Original installation by the factory was manufactured by Cutler Hammer, pn 6041-H-231. Several used examples on controller.com, and BAS lists them on their website, also. https://www.controller.com/parts/search?PartNumber=6041-H-231&SearchType=Start I think Spruce sells TSO’d replacements… if you’re looking for a new one.

Look on the BK website… https://aerospace.honeywell.com/us/en/products-and-services/products/cabin-and-cockpit/avionics/autopilots-and-indicators/aerocruze-100-autopilot#resources-tab

Is the installation of the ALY-8520 accomplished with an STC? I’d think that paperwork would include the part numbers for the brackets? If I remember, @Ragsf15ehad an F model (and he’s since upgraded to the Encore) but if you can track down the STC paperwork that might help your search for the right bracket.

I did almost the same, but used a scrap piece of baffle. Not installed yet in the picture, I ran a .032” safety wire between the screws so the baffle wouldn’t fall off. (And I replaced the exhaust ball-joint hardware with castellated nuts and cotter pins.) The landing light lens cover may cure more vibration than you realize. When previous owner installed the 3-blade McCauley, he didn’t like the vibes. Had the prop dynamically balanced, still not happy. Smoothing of the cowling surface with the lens cover is what finally made him happy.

Someone with real J-model knowledge will be along shortly… A ‘78 J would be an early serial number, yes? Would the applicable figure in the IPC be 71-10-00? Index 27 and 28 relevant to the cowl flap hinge, with Note 3 reference to using -500 part numbers (depending on the serial number) and SB M20-231. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-231.pdf Regardless of everything I said above, try a longer bolt to get two or three threads protrusion through the nutplate. Or, do the M20-131 (if it applies).

Thanks for posting the Type Certificate excerpt. A caution to the early short-body owners, your IPC may show a 4-ply tire on the nose. When the F/G models came out in ‘68, the IPC showed a 6-ply tire on the nose and a 4-ply tire on the C/D/E. The 6-ply tire is listed in the last version of the vintage models IPC, Manual 205. The 4-ply tire was removed altogether.

https://www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net It was maybe five years ago when they did the 500 hr on my right mag on my ‘63C. They identified the wrong model mag was installed (who knew?), but they worked with me to make it right.

Not that I’m doubting your statement… when do you hear this squeaking? Have you hit all the zerks on the gear to make sure it’s not a dry bushing? Probably some version of silicone spray would not damage the donuts. Read the label before application. Someone with better perspective will be along shortly…

I’m speculating… originally Mooney thought that air flowing through the heat muff would lower the muffler temperature, perhaps extending the life of the muffler (?). It is odd, though, that the factory decided to just weld a plate over the outlet to close off the exhaust valve. And then keep the double linkage through the dump valve to actuate the carb heat? Doesn’t seem very well thought out. (Or, maybe the picture below was modified after it left the factory?) They must have had a bunch of the old air boxes in stock and used them to save money, rather than redesign the carb heat system without the dump valve.

Consider asking your A&P to add the hose to the carb heat dump valve. The hose is routed to the left exhaust cavity and gets the hot muffler air out of the lower cowl. And the linkage wire to actuate the dump valve looks a little banged up…

Yes, the dome nuts have ears for rivets to secure them to the panel and keep the fastener from turning. (Apologies for saying the obvious.) I don’t see any ears on the nuts on your access panels. Maybe it’s some other kind of anchor method (fixed into the plate?), or maybe I’m not seeing clearly, but I hope you are able to figure out a solution so you can get back into the air. Another pic from the archives… even with sealant, the nut plate ears are obvious. You’re on the right track on access panel installation. The mx manual provides some guidance there.

The alphabetical parts listing in the early IPC (‘61-‘64) includes the dome nut plate, pn ESNA-22-NAIK-02, applicable to production serial number 1701 and on. The mx manual (104) addresses sealing of fasteners and nut plates only in generic language. Whoever used plain nuts installing the fuel access panels didn’t follow the IPC for proper hardware, in my opinion.

I remain confused. But, I’m not a fuel tank guy, either. By not employing nut plates, dome or not, how do you hold the nuts from turning when the last access panel is installed to close up the tank? And how are those nuts sealed? Installing hardware with sealant isn’t unheard of, but mostly as last-ditch effort to stop a leak and avoid pulling an access panel to make a proper repair. Maybe I should go read a mx manual… Glad you have a way forward.

Near as I can tell, fuel tank access panels are pn 210099-1. Same part number top and bottom access panels. Same part number in the mid-60s IPC, so there should be some available through the salvage yards, for sure.

Hangtown Aviation in Placerville (PVF). Brandon is honest. He repaired fuselage tubes under the pilot’s window on a really nice J model. It was perfect. LIncoln Skyways (LHM) has worked on Mooney’s, but I’ve heard they can be pricey.

Top and bottom panels installed without using dome nuts. That’s a challenge. How did they put that together? Anyone? Can you access through the fuel sender hole in the cabin? It’s not very big, but I think less challenging than the filler neck on top of the wing. In the end, you may end up with the suggestion by @Aerodon and cut access holes in the panels. I’m thinking the panels would have been made on a fixture so the hole pattern ‘should’ match.

The ‘approved’ way, would be to pull the panel on the top of the wing, then you have access to the nuts. Remove the improper hardware, install dome nuts, reseal the panel, and reseal the top panel. After cure check of the sealant, leak check the tank with full fuel. I don’t think you’ll have any luck trying to reseal the hardware fishing through the fueling port. I think you’ll end up pulling the top panel, regardless. Making a big mess with sealant inside the tank could create a safety of flight issue. If your tank sealant is in otherwise good condition, you might get by (for a while) just resealing the hardware that’s leaking. Probably remove the hardware, strip the area, reinstall the hardware, and then sealant. Not sure if your A&P would concur with that option. It would not be IAW any Mooney tank repair guidance I’m aware of… surely (?) Mooney used dome nuts in the tanks in the B model. You might check to see if the other tank uses the same hardware. When was the last tank work done in the logbooks?