47U

It’s one of the great mysteries of MooneySpace…

There wasn’t a SB to replace the ball/swivel rod ends on the nose gear doors. I’m not sure if a Heim bearing gives enough rotational clearance… perhaps with a short spacer? As far as part numbers… my IPB lists a ‘link, retraction’ as pn 8129, superseded by pn 550021. Mooney part numbers really don’t cross reference to mil spec or AN / MS standard part numbers. Aircraft Spruce carries some ball joints, as I’m sure do others… I’m sure there’s a replacement available either new or from a salvage outfit.

Here’s a pic of m7 ‘63C… like takair says, the engine connections (throttle/prop?) are subject to so much vibration, they should be swapped out for Heim bearings. I think Mooney did a service bulletin to do that.

There was a thread (I thought) that listed the part number for the alternate gear… I did read in one post that SureFly has the alternate gear available, if needed. Pricey, though. A couple years ago it was in the .35 amu range, now I think it’s closer to .5 amu. If you contact SureFly, they should have the details. If you need the alternate gear it might be cheaper to take your gear to a machine shop and have them cut a second keyway, 180 degrees opposite the existing keyway. The SureFly install doc has reference to a drive gear with two keyways, so the modification shouldn’t invalidate the airworthiness… with your A&P/IA approval, of course.

That is the correct answer. A new ATH-1 will come with the adapter plate to mount the existing control cable support arm. The mount studs will have to be changed, but they also come with a new governor. Your original post didn’t say who made the governor you’re replacing… but you’re obviously on top of your situation. Good luck in your search.

Sorry to not be clear… The Hartzel governor control cable penetrates the firewall on the copilot’s side. The Woodward and McCauley governor’s control cable penetrates the firewall on the pilot’s side. The cable support brackets are different and the clocking of the control arm on the Hartzel governor is opposite that of the Woodward and McCauley governors. As long as your old governor is a Hartzel, you should have the right setup for installing an ATH-1.

What make governor are you replacing? The application chart for the ATH-1 is approved to replace Hartzel governors…

Some SureFly installations have had trouble with timing to the engine. There’s an alternate drive gear with the teeth indexed a half tooth off. An eighth inch more travel in the stud mounting slots would have been enough for me. I was good, until I torqued the nuts. My install was several years ago, they may have expanded the slot… not sure.

A number of selections on Aircraft Spruce… https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=eyeball vent

The joggle could be challenging for many… I know if would be for me.

There was a guy selling two of the oval panels in the Mooney Flyer. https://themooneyflyer.com

I’m might be late with this suggestion… but if you’re subject to the 500 hr yoke shaft AD, you might see how close you are to the ‘next due’ and have it done now, since the yokes are already off. (If they still are.)

Are the post lights OEM or were they added later? Are they on all the time? Is the problem that they cannot be dimmed? Are your overhead spotlights controlled by a rheostat on the overhead panel? Does the rheostat work? I would think that the post lights would (should) be controlled with the same circuit as the overhead spotlights. If the post lights are not factory, you might be tracing wires to see where the power comes from.

I would approach Skywagons like I would any strip-mall used car salesman. They do not have a reputation comparable to a Jimmy Garrison/Gmax style operation. I don’t have any personal experience with them, but knew someone who was based at Placerville.

I have amended my previous post. I read the word “chrome” but it didn’t register that it wasn’t just polished aluminum. I apologize for my confusion.

To the question of protecting polished aluminum, I’ve found the best defense is to keep it covered. Even if it’s hangared.

Art… yes, the single-piece windscreen gets rid of that sheet metal (housing) that hides the center fuselage tube. There are compass mounts available that can be mounted to the tube. I’ve since upgraded to a vertical card compass. Luckily, I didn’t have problems swinging the compass, as some have.

Welcome, Art. Has your E been converted to a 201-style sloped windscreen or single-piece windscreen? Both of those mods remove the sheet metal covering the center fuselage tube. If the visors were also mounted to that cover, then that option would be also lost. There is a part number in the’65E parts book for a compass mount, pn 820023. For what it’s worth, here’s a couple pictures of my center post from a ‘63C showing the compass and visors mounting. Note the piece of hose wedged between the compass housing and the center post… to keep the compass from vibrating. The mount was very springy.

Building on Skip’s post… some of the older mx manuals had exploded views of hydraulic components. The below is applicable to ‘67 F serial numbers 660003, 660004, and 670001 - 670539.

Excellent decision. When I went down this road, I discovered the outboard-most CB is very close to interfering with the fuselage tube. You can see the vinyl hose in your picture that I’m sure is there to prevent arcing on the last CB. The 7277 is just a little longer, increasing the possibility. I angled (rotated) the last CB in the mount slightly to gain a little more clearance from the fuselage tube. It looks really close in the picture below, but I also replaced the vinyl hose protection which is more clear, so it looks like it’s the fuselage tube itself. The best solution I think, would be to leave that hole empty, if you have space for that CB somewhere else.

My ‘63 C didn’t have a landing light cover. When my Dad put a 3-blade prop on the ‘63 C back in he ‘90s, he didn’t like the harmonics. He got the prop dynamically balanced, still didn’t like it. Finally, the prop guy said to put a lens over the landing light. That did the trick. This is a crappy picture (I was stripping parts prior to repaint, but it’s the best picture I have), it shows the landing light retainer ring, and the lens attachment band with the tabs to attach the lens is next to it. It’s laying flat, but gets rolled up into the landing light recess. It’s held in place with some sheet metal screws so it can be removed to replace the landing light. It’s be pretty easy to make one… the plexi lens might be the hardest part.

The easy way to tell (without tracing wires) is to pull the breaker (or disconnect the ring terminal) and see what doesn’t turn on.

Is this the original buss bar on the lower right copilot’s panel? An appropriate sized wire with ring terminals tying the two sections together might be employed… a picture with more definition of your potential interference could be useful…

Read the part number off the 3A circuit breaker for the ADF and order that in the 5A spec. That would reasonably be expected to match the removed breaker so that it fits seamlessly on the buss bar. Alternatively, 55 year old original equipment circuit breakers probably should all be replaced. The plastic (bakelite?) housings are all brittle and can fall apart with the simple act of removing the terminal screws (in my experience). It’s better to plan and replace them all in advance rather than to be in the middle of a project and be held up because you have to source more parts.

It gets easier the longer you are an owner, or, perhaps, you just become numb to the reality of the outgoing amu’s. If you have an alternator (replacing the original generator), the powerflow exhaust is an upgrade many vintage Mooney owners have been happy with. If you still have a generator, it protrudes too far back into the lower cowl and interferes with the powerflow installation.