lamont337

Hybrid or nah? Doesn’t seem to have the inner cylinder like pictured in the SB.

I rented both from Oasis Aero in Willmar, MN back in 2020. $100 each plus shipping. Where are you located?

Definitely cam locks on the cowl, thanks guys. I’ll suggest Jimmy to those that are coordinating the sale.

The owner of this C at my field had a stroke and this may be going on the market soon. From what I’ve been told he is the original owner and the plane only has 1230 hours total time. Very clean, very original, paint is maybe 5 years old and in great shape. Tanks show evidence of leaking from the little drain hole in front of the lower inboard access panel, no smell in the cabin. This plus the lack of use and avionics make it hard to price. What do you guys think?

Email sent

I'm in Michigan also, where are you looking for hangar space?

3rd pic, if the crack in that lower firewall panel is too far gone for a stop drill there is one listed on eBay currently, no affiliation: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-M20J-M20C-M20E-Firewall-Stainless-Steel-Nose-Gear-Fairing-Cover-/153894738562?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Just need new probes, which I would probably do even if they were included: $600 https://www.ebay.com/itm/EI-UBG-16-Aircraft-Engine-Monitor-/284355391026?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Send that to flights and have a look at the navlog. Suspect one is accounting for wind and the other isn’t. Heading vs. course.

Count me in for a set, I was considering ordering a down lock block for my annual in May anyway.

Are you referring to the set screw that is holding the upper sprocket in place or something else?

Similar price range, 20 more hp and it looks like it has some nice mods (cowl). Near me but I have no affiliation with the plane. https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/avo/d/ray-mooney-m20/7273578576.html

Did it separate right at the weld? Interesting. Might be a good time to check the baffles inside the muffler as well. AWI rebuilt some exhaust components for me a few annuals ago but I've heard good things about Knisley (above) as well. https://awi-ami.com/

I take that back, I was going off of 63 which is the bottom of the white arc for mine and not including the horn going off prior. To really dial it in I’d probably go horn plus 5, which would give you a 5 knot buffer on either side. Sorry for my confusion as that doesn’t solve the RPM issue.

Just above that it S3 for the speed: Establish and maintain an airspeed at which any further increase in angle of attack, increase in load factor, or reduction in power, would result in a stall warning (e.g., airplane buffet, stall horn, etc.). 75 would be too fast in my C, no mention of Vso 1.3

Adding a filter adapter was one of the first things I did when I bought my plane. Believe you need 12 and 14 and if I remember correctly we reused #10. Not an A&P, verify as necessary. https://www.skygeek.com/donaldson-204418-156-adapter-filter-spin-on-oem-p-n-77852.html

Pull the interior panels to get more info on the leak. Possibly the upper inboard seam if the tanks were full. Simple temporary solution, don’t top off completely. You can also pull the long angle trim piece that closes off the gap left along the wing to fuselage junction. Maybe wing root fairing is the proper name? The green circles used to hold springs that sat under the seat cushion. Sort of like bed springs. Not worth replacing.

2020 main goal involved a regional airline and was starting to take shape in March but... well you know. Added Instrument and MEI. Should pass 900 hours for the past 12 months, which isn't bad considering we were shut down for nearly 2 months. 85 of that was in the Mooney, mostly with my brother in the left seat working on his instrument ticket. Might hit 1800 total. 2021 goals: fly a little less actually. Or at least less instruction and more King Air time . Off to Flight Safety in March. Tail wheel when time allows Help remaining students finish current ratings, including my brother I feel very fortunate to still be working, mainly instructing, while so many others in the industry are playing the waiting game. Like many I'll be glad to put 2020 in the rear view mirror.

Happened to me awhile back as well. In my case, the nut on the back of the lock mechanism was slightly loose, causing some slop that allowed things inside the lock barrel to be misaligned. Tightened everything up as it's as good as new. Got about half a turn on the larger nut that holds the lock to the door also.

That's how I'd do it, with KTUS in the route section of the flight plan. I also have my students put "training flight" in the remarks.

I give this article to every one of my instrument students. I also emphasize that if you have +V instead of LVP there is more than likely an obstacle somewhere on the approach that is preventing the establishment of an LPV glidepath and it's minimums. Lookout below.

I did see that and should have mentioned it, but upon visual inspection the eccentric is riveted in place. No six screws around shaft. Suppose we could drill it out, rotate, drill a new hole and rivet again but it's gonna be really hard to get it in the right place on the first try. I'll try to get some pictures with the cover off when I'm at the airport tomorrow.

Gents, I've searched and gone through a few old threads about trim being stuck or difficult to move but I have the opposite problem. After trimming for level flight I can occasionally watch the trim wheel rotate slowly to a nose down position. The picture below was revised in '66 but I have a '62. My trim assembly does NOT have the 4 nuts to loosen or the two vertical bolts that could be used to tighten the chain. The box is riveted together as one assembly with no obvious adjustment possible. The trim jack screw assembly in the tail was rebuilt by Lasar a few years ago and I'm not sure what else to check. Any advice is appreciated. Here's one like mine on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/i/142987801229?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=142987801229&targetid=888709244052&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016915&poi=&campaignid=9426322072&mkgroupid=92907997622&rlsatarget=pla-888709244052&abcId=1141016&merchantid=109942766&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_j1BRDkARIsAJcfmTEaArjSv6EOodQCbl-G13VkGz34Dku7hXeMPnFWQPmZHvFCAUGYBEkaArSaEALw_wcB And this one is more like the picture: https://www.ebay.com/i/274312169564?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=274312169564&targetid=882497019982&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016915&poi=&campaignid=9248481111&mkgroupid=93538209803&rlsatarget=pla-882497019982&abcId=1141156&merchantid=138359445&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_j1BRDkARIsAJcfmTEsDtjP10Piip0c9IOwNxPT5QOUzX71MVk7ki4GE55FXUblIiAzW5UaAvwVEALw_wcB

Mine have a clevis pin secured by a cotter pin. Discussed in this thread: