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M20F

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Everything posted by M20F

  1. Better to save a bit more and do it right then spend a bunch of money for a new panel. That’s my two cents, not challenging you just providing the opinions you asked for.
  2. I would get another G5 (kill HSI and the King Head) and stick the T&B under the panel.
  3. I bought my F specifically for manual gear and hydraulic flaps. Much cheaper and easier. Manual gear is 1 million times better and after using it about 3 times it is a non-event. Because I am dangerous I retract mine rapidly about 2” above the runway, the girls dig it. I would personally though never own a plane named after a scrub plant.
  4. If you don’t need the rear seats the E is the way to go.
  5. Trust Art he knows laytex.
  6. Sounds like a math problem.
  7. A Cessna 310 is a great plane.
  8. I was going to reseal mine. Paul never answered phone or returned VM’s. Ended up with Maxwell (who I believe licenses the weep no more tech) just reseal at annual for like $500. My tanks don’t leak and I am happy I didn’t spend a million AMU’s I didn’t need to. Moral of the story is perhaps a patch is in order versus a full reseal.
  9. I need to wait for my long range tanks till I can accurately draw my tackle.
  10. You reach under the panel and flip the valves on the heater down there. Once closed below it blows on the windscreen versus the footwell. I find it pretty useless in my F and scrap the ice off the inside as needed, then pop the storm window when it gets warm. Works much better.
  11. You should be a purist and run the hoses to the cold air inlet on the side of the fuselage.
  12. I have on occasion had weirdness in my 650, I just recycle the power and it has always fixed it.
  13. Hi, Scroll down it lists what the different versions are https://www.seam-avionic-parts.com/ProductDescription?id=182 It appears you are the proud owner of the Piper version.
  14. You are really overlooking the larger opportunity which is to do both experimental and a M20J. Drop at PT6 on it and maybe it can keep up with my Executive.
  15. I have heard very good things about the guy who replaced Darryl Jansen at KFEP. Haven’t used personally but two close friends had very great results and been back multiple times.
  16. Hard IMC is departure (where you aren’t breaking out right away) or landing close or at minimums (where tops aren’t low). Flying around enroute in the clouds is a non event to me. Taking off through a 500’ layer or landing through one not so much either.
  17. What size is the nut on a Tempest filter? I can’t find the right impact socket for my air gun to tighten mine up.
  18. Jimmy Garrison
  19. I would also check cables for corrosion. Hit them with wire brush dremmel and then dylectic grease.
  20. Carpeting strands can block the hole as well. The carpeting in that area tends to get frayed in the older birds and it causes it not to lock, not to move, etc.
  21. My experience is a TSIO-370 in a 320. In 25yrs of flying it we never had issues getting 1500-2000 out of the cylinders and one of the engines was about 3000 total time. It flew 75-100hrs a year. Boost is what eats cylinders up more than anything in my experience (especially true with no intercooler where you are pumping extremely hot air into the cylinders). 4hrs running 32” is a lot harder on things then running at 26” using the turbo more as a normalizer to restore power versus adding it. A friend just picked up a Seneca and he never uses full boost on take off as example unless it is hot and heavy. For just him can easily and safely get off with 30-32”. Then he just uses it as a normalizer in climb/altitude. Run it with a lot of boost for a lot of hours you are going to replace cylinders. Just a question of which is more important dollars or 10kts. In my F there is no possibility of LOP at altitude the CDT is just too hot. Lots of richness and never had an issue with it or cylinders. I am on about 800hrs on my current set. You see the same thing in cars. Run 10+lbs a lot you are going to be redoing things more often than you would like.
  22. Dremel tool them with a wire brush and then dylectic grease everywhere for the win.
  23. It’s a big roll of the dice. Yes you might find a C at your price point that you can fly for 3-4yrs with minimal cash in but unlikely. You also will get stuck a lot of places and sometimes for a long time without an instrument rating.
  24. I always pick #1 because the owner wants to protect the airplane and ensure it doesn’t ever get damaged. I trust all Mooney owners because they are #1.
  25. Check the probe against a known # aka boiling water. Could be the vernatherm but start with cheapest and easiest first and go from there.
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