jetdriven

The complexity that engine looks pretty amazing too, direct injected diesel, turbo charged, gear drive, probably has four valves per cylinder and a bunch of timing chain and gears too.

Opening my kit this JPI OAT probe is like a half inch in diameter. Looks like it belongs on a World War II bomber Than a clean slick Mooney. Does anybody know the specs on this thing, can I use a smaller OAT probe? I know for example Davtron probes are pretty skinny.

Just do it, Paul. A friend of mine has a 1200 square-foot shop and we rolled everything out in three hours, rolled the clear on in about an hour and a half

If you are a LOP operator this is easy, you just can’t get it to run smooth LOP. Your engine monitor will tell you which one is clogged, then just clean that one.

100% solids epoxy has no odor at all. The urethane topcoat does have a nasty odor but it’s gone in about 24 hours. If your epoxy gives off an odor, it’s solvent-based and it’s garbage. The two I have used, Durall and armor garage/armor Poxy Are 100% solids.

Circling back, we bought a new house a year ago, and 3 months ago we coated it with armor garage epoxy. It’s 100% solids, and topped it with their 2-part military urethane topcoat with non skid. It’s good.

If a turbine conversion was feasible it would be commonplace, the TPE331 is 50 years old now and the RR250 is nearly so.

THIS

You can lose 70-80 mph of IAS in 3 miles, Just by leveling off and setting the power to 20 inches. As it slows pull back a little more to like 17. As it slows it wants to pitch over and not slow down until you actually hold altitude for a bit.

I bought a 395nm UV flashlight from amazon. UV dye from the auto parts store. But evidently the oil glows under the UV light.

The green version corrodes aluminum. The purple version kills the paint.

I read somewhere that the auto parts store stripper failed with regard to overlapping parts and corrosion. At least keep it off the seams

It fires the over-rich mixture.

The hot fuel in the injector lines from the spider vaporizes and then it dumps into the cylinders. So it automatically floods it after a hot shut down. That’s why the engine sounds like bacon frying whenever you’re pushing it back into the hanger. That’s the vaporized fuel bubbles pushing the liquid fuel through the injectors into the cylinder and it sizzles when it hits hot engine parts. If you start it hot then do not prime it, it’s already primed so to speak. Turning the fuel pump on while cranking allows the fuel pressure to stabilize when you start it. . Otherwise it will start and then die as the air bubble passes through the fuel pump and it cannot maintain fuel pressure.

If you cover any of that stripper or solvent with Saran Wrap then let it set an hour it does wonders, along with the rest of Cliffy’s technique. I stripped the forward half of my wing with acetone and Saran Wrap.

Tire failure can certainly lead to a fatal accident. Easily.

Well, that’s kind of scary. I just bought a 395 nm UV flashlight for checking oil leaks. I guess I will treat that thing with more respect

No, and if you can install an LED bulb like the grote tractor beam on Amazon that is brighter, Has a similar pattern, and has no glare and halation ir radio noise, I think you’re OK.

Use denatured alcohol, xylene or MEK to remove the glue. Then put in either new carpet or your carpet with the foam removed and install snaps in the floor. The female in the carpet. Two at the rear of each carpet strip. One each between the rude pedals. Two at the forward end of the center strip. And 4 under the front of the pass seat. 2 under the front of the pilot seat. Sailrite has The snaps and the tool

Question is how do you measure or verify 100cd of brightness from zero degrees forward to 110 degrees aft, and from 90 degrees up through down. Those are the requirements and like i mentioned earlier, LEDs tend to have dark spots in random areas.

A real problem with LED bulbs is that they require an array to meet aspherical illumination requirements. LED emitters have a very narrow beam, and if you just stick one in the wingtip it’ll be bright in some areas and not as bright in others. Incandescent bulb radiates light in 360° of sphere from the elements, and LED like I said must have an array and it must be shaped properly. There’s a lot of LED bulbs out there that are not very bright at all

Permatex aviation sealer is a very dark brown, almost black. it’s not about getting more Life from them, it’s about the gasket sealing when installed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM3QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_9cTGDbYQ8MM1F

I’m not sure how accurate the % hp is. Does the unit calculate HP when ROP, at peak, or LOp? They are different values

I think it is overdone. At the top of the 337 form, it says for major alterations. Then go read the far part 1 definition of major alteration. “14 CFR Part 1.1 Major alteration means an alteration not listed in the aircraft, aircraft engine, or propeller specifications - (1) That might appreciably affect weight, balance, structural strength, performance, powerplant operation, flight characteristics, or other qualities affecting airworthiness; or (2) That is not done according to accepted practices or cannot be done by elementary operations. Minor alteration means an alteration other than a major alteration.”” I get the STC changes the type certificate of their plane and it it should be documented, but the installing mechanic decides whether it’s major or minor. Not the person who made the Rosen sunvisors. To install the ADSB wingtip Beacon you fit the unit in place of the removed NAV light assembly. You not change any holes or even hardware. Anyway that letter from their regional Counsel explains it just the same

GAMi has a test just for this, they call it a high-low test. I did that, and it was inconclusive. Then we pressurized the intake with the exhaust of a shop vac. Again no leaking Intake gaskets found. So I preemptively change them anyway, the simple cheap paper gaskets. But I coated them with permatex aviation sealer. Anyway after we did all that work the airplane wouldn’t start so I cracked the throttle a good bit and then It would start but is soon as you pull the power to idle it would shut it off cleanly. It took about three turns on the idle stop screw to get it to idle smoothly at low RPM. That’s how big of a vacuum leak we fixed. And this was on a 200 hour factory engine that hadn’t been apart. So I’m a big believer in coating those gaskets now for sure.