willerjim273

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About willerjim273

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  1. Never mind on ailerons.: I figured that the ailerons out. Loose nut behind the yoke. Move the nosewheel a smidgeon and all is well. Still wondering on the pedal adjustment. Tks
  2. 2 questions. 1980 M20K; Just noticed that the ailerons favor the rh side. In neutral position the yokes favor the right. There is less travel from current "neutral" to the stop to the right than left. Feels like a spring missing? She flies great, AP works great. The ailerons travel as they should. No hanging or slapping around. I'd like to have the brakes engage "later". I want the toe brake action to begin over center more. Put another way I want to know if the pushrods that go from the pedals straight down, vertical, can be adjusted shorter. puzzled, Thanks
  3. Fixed. The same problem as Mark. The magnet on the On-Off arm had slipped out of it's socket. Two cent fix. Big clue for the future is if your On-Off switch does not seem to travel like it used to, there could be something blocking it. Like the magnet. Whew! For you more experienced should I post this fix as a new post? I'd hate to see anyone pay loads of money for a loose magnet. Thanks to all.
  4. Hello, Thanks for the reply. Yes on both except no flashing lights on lamp test.
  5. Hello all. On the way back from OSH, my autopilot will not engage. From my reading, the panel switch is magnetic. Mine will not stay in up position. Panel fuse operates normally and makes no difference. Is there an inline fuse somewhere? Anyone have a wiring diagram? Trim works fine. tks
  6. Nice engine. I have been stopping by their boot at OSH every year. What can be takin them so long is in red tape, I think.
  7. I have a really nice 1980 231. My mission is out of Denver and 16k in 30 miles. She does the job well. However, the avionics bug has me. And the exp world is awash. I am looking for data on how a 10 compares. Here is my basic logic. Using 16k as standard, the 260 Lyc will be at about 15.4" or about 62% power which equates to about 161 HP. We can say the Mooney is still putting out 200 HP. But is it? Most likely we will be LOP and at a lower actual HP. I have a new (rebuilt) Skyways engine and just changed from mineral oil. I am a coward to try LOP because I cannot find anyone in Denver to be in cockpit with me who knows what they are doing. So I am burning about 13 GPH at 28" and life is good. I am seeing about 160-170 TAS. Anyone have an efis that will tell you what % HP you are when LOP at 16k?? After that we have to look at drag etc then compare all sorts of things that get real tricky. The MP comes from this thread.. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=88214 thoughts, Ideas?
  8. Were you able to sell all your items? Looking for a TIT/CDT Tks
  9. B & D Instruments 0227-005 TIT/CDT Gauge. Mine is actin up. Thanks
  10. OK, It is a 1980 231K. You are correct.. This is a OEM probe. The problem is that neither the ship's TIT or CDT work. The gauge is a B&D instruments Valley Center Kansas. I will look for a wiring schematic and ck it is getting power. Continuity from probes to gauge is good. The wires to gauge are not a home run. There is a screw/bolt connection, then thru firewall. Anybody have a wiring pic for that instrument? Lookslike about 6 pins are used. Tks
  11. Can anyone ID this type of probe Its is for the factor TIT and CDT. Roughly 1.25" exposed and .25 wide. I need 2. One for the old factory TIT and one for CDT. thanks Thanks
  12. OK, Thanks He is not fluent in Mooneys. We will look for it. I see it in the wiring diagram, but no location reference that I can see.
  13. 1980 231k Where do I find the bus that becomes hot with the avionics master? I read about some plastic piece on pass side. Anyone have a pic? What wires could I follow to that one.? We are adding a bitching betty and I would like to have her not start bitching until I hit the avionics master. I also have a Davtron 655 OAT I need to power. Only place I can find is below pilot - under panel. However I cannot find any under there that are open/closed by the avionics master. Also, there are some inline fuses under the panel not labeled. As far as what items need to be run through the panel fuses, do we go with the "essential for safe flight" definition regarding what fuses have to be easily accessible and reset-able in flight? Betty is not essential for flight. To get to the back of the panel fuses, it looks like some de- riveting is required. Anyone have instructions on that one? Some people are like John Lennon- "let it be." Tks