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willerjim273

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  1. Anyone know of a good CFI in Denver Thanks
  2. I am replacing the floor light for the gear down confirmation. The one that is bad is a "330".. Same thing? Looks same, but not sure. Thanks
  3. Anyone tried these? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/586-1101-105F?qs=xy3UPL2NuFsrkb1vOUIzNA%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwp9qZBhBkEiwAsYFsbwwrQlHDLF5xPyCHWdmGF9wjPIsd9BfylSymkdNtpgUvVnP1_4xEKBoCn4wQAvD_BwE My ship is 14 volts so I figure the 586-1106-103F WHITE.
  4. I am back to the experts here about my last post re: low and higher oil temps.(as a note here: according to forum etiquette Is it proper to just add on to the previous post? Or start a new one?) Going over the timeline here's what I have: I picked up the plane 3.6 hours ago after an annual. Good shop nice guy all that. Anybody who knows Greg at BJC knows what I'm talking about. I have a JPI. It’s an older one, 700 series, that does not monitor oil pressure. I have oil temp alarm set for 197 degrees oil temperature. First thing I noticed on the flight home was the oil alarm went off on the JPI. I've been flying this plane for 3 years and very, very seldom does the oil temperature alarm sound. I realize that 200 to 210 it's not anything to worry about but I rather just sideline that discussion for later. At the same time I looked down and the oil pressure was right on the line of yellow and green, 30 lbs. . Again my JPI does not monitor oil pressure. I was at 8000 ft. I have taken her no higher than 8000 ft on several flights since then. Same results. Prior To the annual at 16500 ft my oil temperature was just above minimum and oil pressure was about 46.-50. Now it is 30lbs at 8,000 ft. with higher than normal oil temps. Taking her up to 17k to get over the rocks out of Denver does not seem like a great idea. First thing that came up as the cause was the oil pressure relief valve system. I called Continental and they ran my engine serial number telling me that I do not have an adjustable system. I can see where it is coming off the block, but I'm not sure I'm comfortable being able to get it back in if I take it apart and clean it..The mechanic says if I bring it into the shop that's what he'll do, unless he see something else that's “obvious”. Of course he'll “T” in and check the gauge first. In the last week, I have: 1) changed the oil not knowing what he used. No difference. 2) Drained the oil again and, pulled the filter and took it to the mechanic. No metal. I have a father-in-law that just went into hospice and a wife in Reno. I'd rather not drive. Research- hours of it: Possible culprits seem to be that there is a speck of dirt or something blocking the seat on my fixed pressure relief valve. Again I have the non adjustable pressure relief valve set up. The cap-plug comes out of the block at an angle if anyone has that setup. So I am fixated on that oil pressure relief valve. I am set now to take it back to the mechanic on Monday. Right now I don't think he fully realizes that this occurred right after the annual (I went on a 3 week out of town trip in the meantime). Status right now is she has a new filter and 7 qts of oil and I am ready to take her back to the shop. Looking forward, if it is not the pressure relief system, what then? Any thoughts?
  5. So I called Continental Aero. They looked up engine from data plate. There is no adjustment. So looking at the parts page, they are saying that there is nothing inside of the the cap. That means getting parts inside of # 16. I have not cracked it yet. I will let shop do that and test the gauge. Thanks
  6. Exactly. But not that simple. He is stumped as well. Just talked to Continental Aero. My engine had no pressure adjustment. Yes, no adjustment. What I need is called an EQ6516, which is going to be a bear to find. the parts in that kit are listed below. It is a long story, but with that kit, I can have adjustable oil pressure. Tks For perspective in case anyone has or will come up in the future, we are talking the accessory case here. My engine is TSI0360GB1B - Accessory Case Part Listing GO HERE: http://continental.aero/support/illustrated-parts-catalog.aspx, AND SELECT ABOVE ENGINE #. Thanks if anyone has any experience on this.
  7. I have read all that I can on this subject. 1980 M20K, She is a GB/LB meaning it was converted. I have read about "lapping" and also about a jamb nut with a screw adjustment. There is nothing wrong with engine. I am figuring that the 2 above procedures are one or the other, not both. Before annual, she has always run right on the line of yellow/green. Thanks
  8. OK, So the chaffing is from overlap, not really interference. Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.
  9. OK, Thanks. I suppose I will drop her down and hook up the tow. Not sure I can picture the chaffing. Works fine on the jacks. Will find out. Thanks again. I'll have to look up what you guys are using on Go Pro. Never had one.
  10. I noticed the port (pilot) gear door closes and leaves about a thumb of gap. All is well on jacks. Work great. Anyone have any ideas on why the might have been rigged with that gap? Do conditions change under actual flight conditions? It has always worked just peachy. Do not want to tighten them up and learn something you all may know. Valid assumptions to say that if anything, the low pressure should pull them apart? Muchas
  11. Yes this topic has been all over the place. I have the 3 in rudder extensions. they seem to be adjusted right on the verge of actuating the brakes. I don't think there is any way to adjust in the extension itself. To order to adjust the brake rod, can someone please tell me if that is accessible from the cockpit or pull a panel from below? I would imagine there is a threaded shaft with a jam nut on it somewhere. Kind of a tight space so if I simply push the fabric boot way down is it there?. Thanks very much Recovering from surgery is my excuse.. Tks
  12. This one has been all over the place! I figure we need get to a real question of "what is trying to be accomplished?" With that, how many of us are expecting to have full control - without getting brakes involved - to do both without taking feet of the pedals? It seems as though you have to decide if you want to control both at same time or "stab" at the bottom "rudder" then move up to the brakes as needed. on landing. I have to admit it would be nice to have both. How many of us are "riding" the rudder without moving feet on landings? I have an 80' K with the rudder pedal extensions - I cannot figure it out. Part # is T 20 115 -003 REV B, 24043887 03 /07/201J M43. Also, can someone please send me info on adjusting the length of the brake actuation rod? Do I have to pull a panel below or push the boot down? Thanks!!
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