jetdriven

I don’t use pitot tube covers for that reason anymore; leaving it on is more of a hazard than having it get obstructed possibly. Also, I would still have some kind of independent other primary source of attitude information whether that’s a G5 or a plain old iron Gyro or a Castleberry 14 V electric attitude indicator but something.

In this case, it seems pretty clear cut, the radio that came out was a 750 and it worked great, this xi is terrible, and the one that’s in there for a loaner is a 750 and it works great too.

We have the newest version door seal from Ginbey on our plane, and it’s pretty good. The back of the door stick out about a 16th of an inch because it can’t quite compress like the foam seal can it’s silicone, silicone doesn’t compress as well. But it does seal very well and aside for the door being a little firm to latch. It’s great.

It’s not Bondo. It’s micro balloons and west epoxy. We probably mixed up about a 2 quarts of it and we sanded off about 95% of it…that stuff floats too. Then there’s a few layers of Sherwin-Williams epoxy primer. That’s also about 90% blocked and sanded off. You’ve got to keep the film build down or else the paint can chip. So 2 pounds maybe.

yes then it looks like this

The seal he has has the Mooney part number on it and it came from Mooney. And it is, indeed a genuine BA1706 – M style seal. The triangle shaped thin rubber seal with the foam core. I haven’t seen one in several years. But anyway, the seal holds the door open about a millimeter further than will allow that upper latch hook to grab the in inside the door. This is not the adjustable pin with the alligator jaw that grabs it like you see in later airplanes this is an older plane.

we replaced the legacy GTN 750 with an Xi version two years ago and the com radio has about half or a third of the power that the one that came out of it has. We turn the squelch for basic amd advanced down zero but still even if you open the squelch, it sounds like it’s 50 miles further away than it really is. finally they took it back and it’s at Garmin. They’re doing something to it, and we have a loaner 750 which again, performs great. We also bought a GNC 215 and that thing works pretty good too.

This M10T program was a disaster from the beginning, you could look at the thing and tell you that some engineering and design students had scaled down the M20J airplane. but they scaled down the wing too, and it’s too thin and it was too small and it would never work. You don’t have to actually fly something like this to realize it wouldnt work, but I guess if you want it bad enough if you can make it happen right? But they are still required to obey the laws of physics. After they start flying it and realize it needs a whole new wing, They don’t really have an airplane anymore. Not to mention the CD-135 engine engine I’m not sure it was all that worked out yet either. But what they should’ve done is use that money to modernize their obsolete current products.

The best stuff we've seen for cleaning off the bottom of airplanes is PTI 2000 degreaser. Sold at aircraft spruce. Spray it on, push it around with a microfiber mop on a stick and then hose off to shiny paint. Lead deposits cake grease everything it's gone.

The MZ4222 fits and it’s bulletproof.

Aircraft Spruce will typically give you between zero and 5% off of a part. And then you may mark it up 20% but that’s nothing like an auto shop’s margins. It’s really important to get the idle speed and mixture set up properly on these things. Most of the ones we see are far too rich, and the thing loads up all the way down final and then you firewall to go around it’s full of fuel. It has to clear out before it can make real power. If it’s leaned properly, you have nice smooth acceleration. So I would look there first.

I I tried to buy that kit, but they won’t sell it to me. They can’t get vendor parts anymore. But I think you can figure it out.

We’ve air raced a few 225 horse bonanzas and a good J model is about the same speed. But with all the 285 hp bonanza, the Mooney bravo, Acclaim, and Ovation can take it. Remember the ovation can cruise at 185 kn and those 285 Bonanzas they are about 172 to 175.

Mil h-6000 hose

How do you do that? Put a stop on the throttle? Then you can’t get 100% of available power at altitude. You could set a limitation to restrict MP to 25” Or something but it still doesn’t solve the vapor pressure issues.

I’ve been reading on here a lot of the mechanical fuel pumps from lycoming in in the past few years are like a higher pressure pump and they picked out the gauge. Not gonna be done because you can’t buy one from them that is anything else. The RSA fuel injector is kind of been sensitive to normal range fuel pressure. But continental different story. The fuel pressure kind of determines the fuel flow along with throttle lever position so when you talk about fuel pressure set up for metered and unmetered you’re looking at the metered.

If you call Hartzell, you can ship them your Skytech they’ll rebuild it or repair it for about 3/4 of cost of new, but they said 6 to 8 weeks lead. So essentially, they’re disposable. nobody will rebuild them. Nobody will take them for cores either. And they’re garbage. And by the way that energizer starter I bought for my client cost like 800 bucks not 1300 and it’s gonna last four times longer. It cost him 7 pounds useful load. But having an extra 7 pounds of either batteries or starters or cash in your wallet, is a pretty good thing.

The older Mooneys pump oil and fuel into the cabin to get the pressures. I have a nice braided oil line running up to my oil pressure gauge. The newer Mooneys may have transducers and sending units but I am not sure when the cut-over was. 1978. They took the fuel and oil lines out of the cockpit. Required AFM’s, shoulder harnesses. Airspeed in knots.

It has air-conditioning, and it still fit great. Thank you for the kind words, Brandt! We didn’t even know the tornado was coming ! And really a plus one for Aerotech in Kentucky, I called them at 4:20 in the afternoon and that thing made it out and was in our hands the next morning at 10:30.

These guys here just plain old say it’s false.https://americanflyers.com/the-myth-of-the-inaccurate-fuel-gauge/

I’ve heard that, but it doesn’t seem to make any sense. I thought they had to indicate the fuel quantity in the tank. Not just when it’s empty or just when it’s full either.

Yep

Those senders get gunked up with corrosion and stuff and we’ve had really good luck sending them to Keystone and for about 100 bucks apiece they will come back like new, I just did this with my plane and then we calibrated it with the 275 engine monitor and it’s deadass all the time

When you run the bladders totally empty they tend to kind of sag a little bit and then when you fill them back up, air is trapped behind them and it takes a couple of minutes for it to squish out so if you go back in the morning, you will see they hold one more gallon per side

It could be the ribbon cables inside the unit unit. We had the unit to do this and we sent it to auto pilot Central. I think it was and they went through it and messed with it and cleaned it up and did whatever it cost 1000 bucks though and it works now it’s been two years. Another thing also was those stupid circular connectors will act up in flight. Ours was randomly ignoring the bug at times and then halfway ignoring it if you can imagine that the servo would just kinda go to the neutral position and you could override it left or right it would just stay there. And then we figured out what it was. It was a cold solder joint to the AC transformer inside the Magic box. Of course I soldered this wire and for some reason the an ionic decided to resolder it and that’s when it was broken, but it was barely contacted. It was getting some AC through and it was kind of fading in and out and the way it was responding to was responding to head g