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Everything posted by kortopates
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If its only an issue in Turbulence I wouldn't worry. I woud never use it turbulent air, the pilot can do a far better job than the AP. If it must be used in turblent air, then it should be used only in Pitch mode rather than altitude hold since the AP will stress the wings and tail far more than necessary. But mine will hold altitude within 20' in reasonably smooth air. Trim lock ups are a serious problem with an easy fix - see SB20-325 and SIM20-88A in the tech pubs section on www.Mooney.com The parts for the SI are not expensive nor is the labor to install it, this issue totalled a K model during landing not that long ago discussed here on MS too. On your #3, make sure the elevator trim rocker CB is always on before turning on master and avionics and that should fix the sonalert going on.
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Vents with extended tanks
kortopates replied to FlyingDude's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I recal some (3/8"?) aluminium tubing connects the vent outlet of the main tank to the extended tank top. And yes, in order to fill the extened tanks, which are higher than main tanks, you have to have the main tank fuel cap in place or the fuel added to the extended tank will drain out the main tank filler neck hole. But without the vent line connected to the extended tank it would just trap air at the top of the main tank and prevent fuel from occupying the top of the main tank outboard. Or to put it another way, when you're filling both tanks the vent in the main tank gets filled with fuel rather than air till the fuel level comes down to below the top of the main tank. Even with the vent line interconnecting the tanks if still not easily able to get all the air out of the main tanks to fill with fuel - it takes some time and some burping. -
Vents with extended tanks
kortopates replied to FlyingDude's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
No, that would be a problem, the vent is connected to the extended tank which is vented. -
Its not that its too old to weld that, but an exhaust welding/repair shop would replace the entire bend section from the existing seam. If the straight portion behind that was worn to thin, then they would also replace that section as well, and you might well have a completely new section of exhaust. But these repairs are generally always cheaper than buying new exhaust sections. If you have time to ship it out, I suggest sending some picture to Clinton here at http://www.customaircraft.com/ he would really need to see the rest of the exhaust to be sure, but I haven't seen any job he couldn't do and is one of the best in the industry. But he can't give you an 8130-3 back with it, so your A&P or IA would have to bless the end result.
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My favorite ski resort had me descending in well below freezing temps, perhaps not frequently to -20C. Its been years since I replaced the springs the biggest benefit or most improvement came from replacing the conduit and the bearing on one brake. I do recall I had to buy some really long needle nose pliers, made for springs, to change out the speed brake springs though.
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Yes the case must be split to change out the tappets, but splitting the case doesn't make it an overhaul. A major overhaul is a FAA legal defintion that requires replacing all the parts listed by Lycoming. Anything short of that is only an IRAN and doesn't reset the hours for TSMOH.
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Any tips on switching out the Lord mounts
kortopates replied to Niko182's topic in General Mooney Talk
no, it’s not a lycoming, it won’t tilt. watch out for all the wiring - i disconnect it all first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
you can get springs from Precise. I have replaced most everything in mine except for the bellows. Even the sealed bearing can be replaced - but a lot of work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Any tips on switching out the Lord mounts
kortopates replied to Niko182's topic in General Mooney Talk
Get some "bullets" made to help line up the engine into the mount bolts. "Bullets" are like ground down old bolts to helo center the engine to go over the last couple bolts, except you'll use these bullets and then swap them out with the real bolts. They also help you keep from damaging the threads on the new bolts as you work hard to get them intio alignment. A hoist that also includes a leveler - which hopefully your mechanic already has - is also really helpful to lower the engine without it being tilted. As always putting it back together takes 3x as long as it took to get it off, but to get it to align up on all 4 bolts is much easier with 2 people. -
No, a different kind of filler neck with anti-siphon. But feel free to fill past the bottom of the filler neck and burp the tank till you can't add more. Best thing to do though is empty the tanks completely and measure exactly what you can put into the tank after adding the unusable to the dry tank - you may be surprised to learn what your real tank capacity is. But bottom of the filler neck is the offical full per the factory.
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Insurability and future market values?
kortopates replied to howard.edson's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
As stated elegantly above, an airplane is toy. Buy it because its going to bring you a lot of enjoyment and you have the resources or partners to cover the larger cost of operating and maintaining it. Purchase cost is only the cost of admission, the annual flying budget will quickly exceed the initial purchase cost. Which is one of the best arguments to buy as much airplane as you can afford, assuming your serious about flying, because subsequent upgrades will cost a lot more to fund new later than buy used now. -
see bottom of page https://www.lycoming.com/parts/tappets
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Actually any overhaul that is not done by the factory is a "Field Overhaul" I think you're suggesting an overhaul is best done by a specialty "engine shop" that specializes in engine overhauls - which is good advice. The OP should call around to various engine shops since their ability to source the new required induction parts and others is going to weight heavily on the final cost. But others here have found shops that did it quite reasonably. A little googling of the topic will find many of these posts here in Mooneyspace - that include cost.
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Lycoming uses DLC coating on their lifters now. I think they're about $80 a piece - reasonable.
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AN Numbers for Bendix Magnets hardware
kortopates replied to M20F-1968's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
makes sense. Mine are near impossible to get at as it is. I use a magnet to drop the washer and mag holders into position. Liuckily the nuts can be put on with an extension. Safety wire would be impossible for sure. -
AN Numbers for Bendix Magnets hardware
kortopates replied to M20F-1968's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
It is interesting that its only really been an issue with the dual mags - since when they do come loose you loose both mags and a lot of oil. -
In my limited experience, it typically takes between 6 month to 18 months. First it just takes a break in the surface hardening on the lifter from corrosion, then its like a miniature pot hole that grows and starts to damage the cam. Its rare, but not totally unheard on Continentals, but of course much more common on Lycomings with Cam at the top. Like suggestions above, I'd seriosuly consider OH as well. 1100 hours isn't that much but years is just as important and an IRAN doesn't add any resale value to the plane/engine unlike resetting the clock on TSMOH. But IMO the deciding factors come down to how long you intend to keep the plane. If this is a forever like plane and you expect you'll be the owner through its remaining engine life then I wouldn't be in a hurry to OH at all - the # of hours are no longer important. I'd IRAN it as well. Bottom's can last a long long time if not damaged from metal - which could become an issue here too, but that remains to be seen till inspected.
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Me too on ditching the standby. I suspect they're fine too, glad your destination wasn't subfreezing else it may have been a whole lot more exciting. Before I avoided using them entirely in sub-freezing I thought I might get away using them without any visible moisture flying into my favorite ski resort - but that was a mistake as you discovered. At least they tend to go back in slowly in seeminly dry air, I didn't want to worry about possiby needing to go missed in mountainous terrain with them stuck and not deployed evenly. They slowly came back down but that became a never again moment.
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I assume you'd be more interested in the upgrade path to the Aerocruze 230 - this thread is really about the Aerocruze 100 - which is a fresh install (very simple AP and very affordable as mentioned - I think this was previously known as the TruTack)
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The first thing to check is the Turbo pumping oil out through the seal. This could be from a checkvalve that's blocking the return line to the scavenger pump line, or the scaveger pump not keeping up or it could be a worn garlock seal on the turbo shaft as well. But usually the later only leaks initially when flying high where the Turbo is really spinning. Its not spinning that fast in low power. Hence the suggestion to check that the return line is able to suck up oil faster than what the engine is pumping in and if not you know where to focus: check valve and scavenger pump.
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Landing light plastic cover
kortopates replied to Minnesota Mooney Guy's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Its not the source of the material you're having but learning how to work with the material. These, like the majority of airframe parts, require final trimming to install because of the nature of our hand made airframes. The main source of windows and lenses is, but it's also where LASAR and Mooney get them: https://www.glapinc.com/Mooney/m20K.htm But recognize you can't use a regular drills for wood and metal to drill acrylics without continuing to crack them. You'll need to follow the drilling and trimming instructions located on their website here: http://www.glapinc.com/instructions/index.htm#general Specifically, though many of prefer to use a single unibit drill for drilling different sized holes in acrylics - they make it simple and easy and don't require multiple drilles - see this more detailed except of 43.13.1b they provide: http://www.glapinc.com/instructions/pdf/AC43.131BChapter3.pdf -
Oh okay, but I wouldn't say the STC doesn't apply, Jerry gave a good example with the Ovation that the STC effectivey changed the required equipment list to be FIKI. "negates that argument" is confusing. If your saying the STC means you can't just look at the min equipment list/KOELs and stop there I completely agree and believe that was the point of Jerry's post. Rather than saying it negates the min equip list or other limitiations in the original POH, I'd say the AFMS in the POH can modify the original POH and now the POH is incomplete without the AFMS - since its been modified by the AFMS. Hope I am not just adding confusing - especially if we're saying the same thing.
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TAWS/Terrain cards being killed by latest GPS update?
kortopates replied to hmasing's topic in Avionics/Panel Discussion
There was a new terrain database issued a few months ago that has caused problems with improperly loading on multiple systems/navigators. Garmin has issued some bulletins on how to fix this issue and get it properly installed. I would search the garmin "Aviation Alerts" page using GNS as a key word. I suspect you'll find some help. If not, then call Garmin tech support and they'll get you through it. https://www.garmin.com/en-US/aviationalerts/