Jsavage3

Earl, I would like to apologize to you and the rest of my MooneySpace brothers/sisters for how I've handled myself regarding this particulat topic. It was un-called for on my part and a bit over the top, unprofressional even, regarding my verbiage. I would like to say that since my Mooney does not have speed brakes, I really should not have anything to say about whether or not I would/should use them if I did have them. My world at work needs to stay at work. I should not and will not in the future allow my techniques for work creep into my comments on MooneySpace. Yes, the rumble from my speed brakes at work scare my passengers to death and hence we don't use them unless absolutely forced too...no, I don't fly for an airline and when CEO xxx or actor xxx complains, everybody in my circles listen very carefully. Speed brakes shouldn't and wouldn't affect my family in the Mooney because they would know what I was up to and would anticipate them. Over the last day or so, since my jumping into this with both feet regretably, I have surmissed that there would be several times in a Mooney where I could definitely argue that boards would be helpful -- descending in turbulence, descending quickly thru a layer of icing (but like someone pointed out, watch out for them icing up and not retracting on you), ATC requests, etc. Are they a tool? Absolutely. Would I pay to have them installed on my Mooney? Probably not, but if they were already installed I'd probably "exercise them" from time to time. Again, my apologies and please know that this MooneySpace forum is absolute gold -- best seen to date by far and it always reminds me of how lucky & proud I am to actually have Mooney keys in my pocket...very lucky indeed am I... I humbly request that we soldier on.

ATC slam dunks happen all the time, but we don't have to play. I guess I'm more concerned about my passengers quality of ride than I am in trying to make ATC happy. I'm never afraid to say unable or ask for a vector if I elect not to play the dive-for-ATC game. My initial and still current opinion is that boards are not necessary and that their use is an example of poor planning. In my Mooney, there has only been one type of situation that I've encountered where I would have liked to have had boards and that was descending in moderate or better turbulence.

Shadrach, regarding your response to my #3, it's a bit of a cheap shot... We're talking about normally-aspirated Lycoming IO-360 engines, not TSIO engines and 4500-foot cruise is not where I'm trying to focus, but fyi, I wouldn't see 10.6 there...it'd be closer to 9.5. I don't cruise at 4500 feet except for very short hops. So, in an effort to make this process easier, let's look at J-model ROP to J-model LOP, cruising at 10,000 feet. In my normally-aspirated J at 10K, I will see 20-21" MP at WOT, ram air open, 2500 RPM, peak EGT (first to peak), CHTs 340-360 (depending on OAT), 9.3-to-9.5 GPH and 157 KTAS. Can a J-driver who does LOP provide some comparable numbers for these conditions?

Throw your spears "Earl" -- I don't take it personal. ATC works for me and you should consider that idea. Unfortunately, your theories about me are incorrect. I can assure you that I do in fact operate at our Class B airports on almost a daily basis. I cannot remember the last time I had to use boards on my jet...ok, well, other than the landing roll. So, if your rant is over, maybe we can get back to discussing something constructive and as well as let others know that sharing their personal opinion is something that is OK and not something that will cause "people" to jump down their throats in an unprofessional manner...

If ATC asks for something that you cannot do without using the boards, tell them unable. I won't use the boards to fix ATC's errors. That applies to me in my Mooney, my jet at work or back in the old days of military flying. The boards are there for me to use to fix MY errors! If it's terrain that is the issue, well, terrain never makes errors. Plan your flight accordingly. My Mooney has no boards (thankfully) which causes me to PLAN THE DESCENT AND ARRIVAL! There is no excuse for finding one's self high, fast or whatever at the FAF...it all comes back to planning. It's all about energy management and, IMHO, putting out "drag devices" is not an example of efficient flying.

Ok, so here is the question that always makes me ponder the why-go-LOP question: Is it just about savings? How much fuel does one feel they save per flight hour and at what cost ... slower cruise speed = putting more time on their engine and you get to sit there longer? Does one really believe that they have a better chance of reaching TBO by going LOP? Is the engine being better cared for enroute? CHT/EGT within limits is CHT/EGT within limits. Is not the Mooney the best in the market at providing speed AND efficiency at the same time -- we all know it is. So, what am I missing...why LOP? Please help me "see the light" because my current way of thinking is such that 9.5 gph at 157ktas is hard to improve upon -- what would LOP do for me? Save me less than 1 gph and slow me down by 10-15 knots? I bought my Mooney so I could go fast -- why slow down to p-b-c speeds for a measly 1/2 gal or so savings per hour? If I was feeding a big fuel-guzzling 6-cylinder, then LOP would make more sense to me, but, for us Lyc IO-360 operators, that is not the choice we made. Without fail, every trip we take, the shorter the ETE, the bigger my wife's smile... Why does 2/3 of our group (estimated) fly LOP?

Earlier this summer on one particularly hot day, my CHTs were pushing up to 380...65% @ peak and 9500' MSL, if I remember right. As a result, I ever so slightly cracked open my cowl flaps -- the result was almost instantaneous and there was no visible drop in KIAS -- the temps dropped to 350-360 and stayed there as long as I kept the cowl flaps cracked open. When I closed the cowl flaps, the temps again started a slow climb to 380...

For those of us with the Lycoming IO-360 and for education purposes only, who is running ROP vs Peak vs LOP? If ROP, how much ROP and why. If LOP, how much LOP and why? Please include performance numbers to include KTAS, GPH, CHTs, etc that you typically see as well as power settings and altitude. Currently, I run 25 ROP off of #2 (first to peak) using a UBG-16 and I like to run 65% power at WOT (using the "47" number) around 9,000 feet...usually 22" & 2500 RPM or 21" & 2600 RPM. My CHTs are usually 340-360, 9.3 to 9.6 GPH and 161 KTAS. My GAMI spread is 0.2. We all know why the big 6-cylinder engines are running LOP, but I would like to better analyze how & why we're operating our 4-cylinder Lycomings.

I couldn't agree more! So much so that my bird is down right now for a major avionics upgrade...750 w/ remote audio panel, Icarus GPSS and 60PSS...yep, that'll cost a chunk of change. But, I'll enjoy the fruits of my labor for many years to come and when/if I were to sell my bird, well, she'll be ready. At least that's my theory... No intention of selling though and right now I'm like a kid on Christmas morning waiting to get my bird back so I can go play with all the goodies! Actually, I'll be able to hold my bride's hand as we cruise the countryside rather than having my hands tied up "wrestling my bird" around...yep, that's how I sold her on the idea! Back on target now -- it's definitely a good time to buy!

I went with the 750 & remote audio panel, Icarus GPSS and the 60PSS. No pictures yet as she's still down for the work, but will post them once they're available. Can't wait to enjoy the goodies...

I live in Ohio and I fly all winter long. When I drive to the airport with the family for a trip, I do not like sitting around waiting for an hour while the Tanis engine heater heats things up. Now what? Simple, cost effective & minimal hassle is required...so... I use a 100W lightbulb (Bayco 150-Watt Incandescent Portable Work Light and Item #: 203213 | Model #: FL-300NPDQ12 at Lowe's for $7.95) with a 50-foot extension cord and a ThermoCube TC-3 (electric ON at 35 degrees F and OFF at or above 45 degrees). I run the bulb up the left cowl flap and secure it with the clamp such that the bulb itself doesn't touch anything. After that, I use a rolled up towel to plug both cowl flaps...oil door closed...cowling inlet plugs in place as well. After that, just plug it in. My entire engine compartment never gets below 35 degrees...on a frosty morning, EVERYTHING inside the cowl feels warm-n-cozy to my cold hand... So, when I arrive on that cold morning, I first turn on my heater (Lasko Utility Ceramic Compact Personal Electric Space Heater Item #: 5445 | Model #: 675919 at Lowe's for $50) with 20-ft long, 6-inch diameter flexible & heat-resistant duct (hose) and run that into the baggage compartment door to heat the cabin. While that's preheating the cabin, I usually pre-flight the bird (which includes unplug the cowl flap openings, turn off the engine compartment bulb and remove it) while my family sits in the warm car and watches... Arrive-to-airport to taxiing is usually 15 min tops (does depend on how many bags I have to load) with minimal hassle, family stays warm (and HAPPY which translates to they want to go flying with me again sometime), we climb into the bird without coats on and crank up without cold issues. If at the destination I'm going to be sitting out somewhere in the cold all day, I take a 100-ft extension cord, my clamp-lamp (spare bulb doesn't weigh much either) and a couple of rolled towels with me... I use Aeroshell 15W50 with Camguard year around.

It's always showed up very accurately for me as long as I was on an IFR flight plan...VFR, not so accurate...

I've had great luck with a cotton rag soaked in kerosene.

I run WOT until I'm hitting the "47" (power is 65%) number, then I'll reduce MP to maintain the 47. Ram air open until 5K in summer or 3K in colder months. At 300 fpm down, I'll gain 10 to 15 knots ground speed and I start that so as to hit pattern altitude 5 nm out (or IAF altitude at the fix). I usually see top of the green arc or slightly into the yellow all the way down. To counter turbulence, I recently started experimenting with reducing RPM at TOD to say 2200 to 2300 RPM and then adjusting MP from there to keep the 47...supposedly, per the Mooney manual, it keeps things loaded and causes less internal flutter...and I've noticed it also reduces IAS.

My fix involves a 100-foot extension cord, a clip-on light with a 100W light bulb -- it fits nicely up into the left cowl flap opening -- and I then use rolled towels to plug the cowl flap openings and a plug for the cowl inlets. Engine thinks it's sitting on the beach in Florida!

He did say they would be cheaper than the Rosens but he didn't say by how much...

I just called Dan -- he was certainly unsure as to when they might order more, but he took my name/number and said he'd let me know. I got the impression that if several folks called asking for them then he might get more motivated to make them available to us. I discussed the Rosen's with him and he agreed the "turbulence causing the Rosens to fall" issue is in fact a problem... So, if you need sun visors for your Mooney, call Dan! If I can get them, I want the Lasers.

I prefer manual trim as I can "feel" what is needed and it's far quicker to accurately trim the airplane. Moderate turbulence or so and I turn the A/P off -- it starts working far too hard to keep it all straight when getting bounced around. The "yoke in hand" approach is much easier to dampen out the bumps.

I bought my J with the PF already installed. I notice that the airplane is noisier on the ground than usual but no complaints in flight. I believe, IMHO, that my J's performance is made up like a puzzle -- little pieces added one at a time -- no one thing is going to be the end all - be all. My bird performs well and I believe it's a function of these puzzle pieces -- K&N air filter, PF exhaust, GAMI's, unfiltered air option (gives me an extra 1/2-inch MP above 5,000 feet). I'm a strong believer in focusing on air into the engine and exhaust out of the engine for overall performance. Count me as a +1 for the PF...

Hey RayGun, welcome to Mooney land. Glad to see a fellow fast mover moving into GA and Mooneys... I'll put a plug in for the J -- I've had the pleasure of owning an '86 J for 3 years now. It's a great airplane! Wife, two kids and me = a perfect fit with 158 KTAS, 9.2-to-9.5 GPH (non LOP), 64 gal useable and 950 # payload. I don't care who does the math -- that's impressive and only a Mooney can do it. I'd recommend an older J over the older models if you can swing it...if nothing else, the speed mods are already done and you have more legroom for the two aft seats. Check 6 or die!

The Chinese already bought Cirrus and Continental engines...

Mooney only issues... In-flight: Vernatherm (oil temp climbing rapidly) Landing light Door popped open in flight (not closed properly) On ground: Camshaft (failed slowly over 30-40 hrs b/c of tappet face pitting due to corrosion) -- hence engine OH at 1500 hrs TT and 35 hrs after I bought the Mooney (yes, I use CamGuard now!) Sticky valve Attitude indicator failure Other airplanes = more than I care to remember...

I live in south/central Ohio and I'm looking for the nearest "expert" MSC -- any suggestions for me? Thanks! I have power-flow exhaust, GAMIs, ram-air option and K&N air filter -- gets me 158 KTAS at 9.3-to-9.7 gph running at peak (peak for first-to-peak). Not bad, but if I can get this rigging straightened up, well, that ought to help...

~120 SMOH on my J and burning a quart every 7-10 hrs -- use 6 qts as a min and always fill to 7 for a 3+ hr flight. Anything more than 7 and I find it on the belly...

Recommend you have your fuel injectors cleaned IAW GAMI first... I had this issue recently and the cleaning took care of it...