Jsavage3

Here's an example of why Mooneys are so awesome!!! Nicely done! Wait till the B/C/P types hear about this!

Rob is right, but for me it's all about decreasing my time enroute -- I didn't buy a Mooney to go slow, hence, I don't do LOP -- in a J that is. If I were sitting behind an IO-550, then I'd probably do LOP... I climb at WOT and 2600 RPM, then I use the "key #" 47 for 65% in cruise...and cruise at an altitude that minimizes headwinds and/or maximizes tailwinds... Always WOT with ram air open (above 3000' in cooler seasons and above 5000' in summer) and... 2400 RPM down low (23" MP at WOT) 2500 RPM medium altitudes (22" MP at WOT) or 2600 RPM up high (10-12K with <= 21" MP at WOT)... I will also look at wind patterns -- CCW around a low and CW around a high...

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I live in Ohio and I fly all winter long. When I drive to the airport with the family for a trip, I do not like sitting around waiting for an hour while the Tanis heats things up. Now what? I use a 100W lightbulb (Bayco 150-Watt Incandescent Portable Work Light and Item #: 203213 | Model #: FL-300NPDQ12 at Lowe's for $7.95) with an extension cord to a ThermoCube TC-3 (electric ON at 35 degrees F and OFF at or above 45 degrees). I run the bulb up the left cowl flap and secure it with the clamp such that the bulb itself doesn't touch anything. After that, I use a rolled up towel to plug both cowl flaps...oil door closed...cowling inlet plugs in place as well. After that, just plug it in. My entire engine compartment never gets below 32 degrees...in fact, when it's < 32 degrees outside, my engine compartment stays 35+ degrees...on a frosty morning, EVERYTHING inside the cowl feels warm-n-cozy to my cold hand... So, when I arrive on that cold morning, I first turn on my heater (Lasko Utility Ceramic Compact Personal Electric Space Heater Item #: 5445 | Model #: 675919 at Lowe's for $50) with 20-ft long, 6-inch diameter flexible & heat-resistant duct (hose) and run that into the baggage compartment door to heat the cabin. While that's preheating the cabin, I turn off the engine compartment bulb, unplug the cowl flap openings, remove the 100W bulb and pre-flight the bird while my family sits in the warm car and watches... Arrive-to-airport to taxiing is usually 15 min tops (does depend on how many bags I have to load) with minimal hassle, family stays warm, we climb into the bird without coats on and crank up without cold issues. If at the destination I'm going to be sitting out somewhere in the cold all day, I take a 100-ft extension cord and my bulb and a couple of rolled towels with me... I use Aeroshell 15W50 with Camguard year around. Other than potential fire hazard, has anyone heard anything negative about the ol' 100W light bulb?

Point, pat, grab, yank...it's all good... Why do I point? A couple of years ago, the company I fly for (business jets with several thousand pilots and will remain nameless here) was trying to deal with a larger than acceptable number of altitude deviations due to inaccurately set altitude selectors from the rank-n-file. Thru the use of so-called 'big name' studies, industry standards, etc they determined that a Crew who physically points at the altitude selector while verbally stating "set" and then "seen" from the other crewmember would reduce the chances of setting it incorrectly. I can tell you that when we were told to start doing this "standard operating procedure" we thought it was ridiculous; however, the results have been fewer altitude deviations. It works for me as the more things I can keep operationally the same the better and I'm only sharing this in the hope that someone might find it beneficial and/or cause them to come up with something that works better for them when it comes to ensuring the gear is down...

In addition to verbally saying "gear is down", I would suggest one additional thing to say... I point at the gear handle & the illuminated "gear down" light while saying aloud, "gear is down ..." then I point at the green donut on the floor and continue with "and locked". I do this technique every single time I do the GUMPs check. Jonwayne79, point taken about my comment, I understand what you mean. My point is we must never allow ourselves to become complacent when it comes to ensuring the gear is down.

Jsavage3, on 30 Sept 2013 - 10:55 PM, said: Gear-up landings can happen to anyone, no matter one's background or professionalism. IMHO, it is the one who feels it "can't happen to me" who will likely be the next victim of a gear-up landing.

I haven't yet, but there are those who have and those who will... I do GUMPs on downwind and again on final...religiously. I have my wife (best co-pilot in the world) verify it with me too...when she's aboard, which she usually is. Bottomline, if ANYTHING is non-routine, that's the time to recognize things aren't routine and double & triple check that your tires are in the wind. One cannot check that too many times!

Mooney Primer...can be found on-line at http://home.comcast.net/~mjcoyle/aviation/mooney-primer.html I found this very informative...

Love my 201! It truly is an economical magic carpet! From Ohio, we've been to IA, OK, MD & PA in the last 2 months...12.2 hrs of flying on 120 gallons of av-gas! Passengers have told me before that the back seats are more comfort than the front. Thank you Mooney factory!

Will GPSS work with my KAP-100 autopilot and my directional gyro (I do not have an HSI)? Anyone have any experience with the DAC GPSS?

GPSS question... Will GPSS, installed along with this upgrade, work with my KAP-100 autopilot and my directional gyro (I do not have an HSI)? My avionics man is not sure yet (he will find out tomorrow) and it being a holiday weekend, I thought I'd throw the question on here...

My work provides me with an I-Pad which contains a complete & current set of Jepps and enroute charts...yes, on Company dime. As such, I do not intend to pay for my own Jepps, so the charts capability of the 750 is really a mute point for me. The traffic could eventually be displayed on my Aera-560, I think. I like the sounds the more-user-friendly 750, but panel space and difference in price are swaying me towards the 650. Still evaluating though...

What does the nav data base update subscription cost per month or year...? What about the chart subscription cost for the 750? How much does it cost to keep up-to-date?

I plan on one or the other...anyone with operational experience on both the GTN-650 and the GTN-750? I would appreciate your feedback? My panel space is limited, so I may be "stuck" with the -650... Other than the spare KX-155, I really don't want to get rid of any equipment. My panel picture is attached.

Jetdriven, in conjunction with your STEC 30ALT, are you running the KAP 100 AP system? If so, do you have it coupled to an IFR GPS? How does it work? All, does anyone have the KAP 100 and 60PSS system? Complaints or praise?

KAP 100 AP here and looking to upgrade -- I need altitude hold at a minimum. Any recommendations? STEC 30ALT for just altitude...or...60PSS for alt hold and vertical modes... Might there be any other options?

I have manual pitch trim only with the KAP 100 A/P (think wing leveler / heading hold)...a very undesirable A/P. Will not having electric trim cause me issues for upgrading my A/P? Tear out the KAP 100 and go in with an STEC? I want something that will be compatible with the Garmin GTN-650... Your recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Sticky valve update... I now have put 13 hours on the engine and 7 engine starts (4 of them a first-start-of-the-day) and I am happy to report zero issues regarding the original sticky valve situation that I first described. Flew the family from Ohio-Iowa-Oklahoma-Ohio in 12.2 hours on the tach and 120 gallons of av-gas! For a family of 4, I cannot think of a more efficient & economical mode of transportation! Happy (and relieved) Mooney driver here!

The leather trick works -- just be careful about putting in too big a piece b/c once it's jammed down in there you won't get it back out...ask me how I know...I'd recommend a piece about 1/8" by 11/2" for starters. Ditto on the rubber band trick being genius!!!

My engine had 1500 hours TTSN when my engine needed OH'd (corrosion on the tappet faces caused excessive cam lobe wear). My A&P/IA had OH'd the engine of a Mooney friend of mine and he had good results, so I ended up having my IA do the work. The case/crank/etc went off to a reputable engine shop and the cylinders all got shipped out to a cylinder shop (I do not recall which one). My IA basically did the disassembly & reassembly/installation. My cylinders were bored out 10 thousandths and new guts installed. This engine now runs strong, burns a quart every 8-10 hours and I fly it night IMC and over water if need be...i.e. I trust it. From a re-sale value point of view and potential warranty issues, well, that's why, IMHO, I'd go with a factory reman next time.

I had my OH completed about a year ago and now have 100 hrs on the field overhaul and the engine is running great...other than a sticky valve episode recently...for which I promptly took it to a reputable engine shop. However, were I to go thru this again, I'd go with a factory reman too. If you do choose the field OH route, recommend you go with new cylinders rather than re-working the ones you have. New cylinders don't cost all that much more than re-worked ones. Good luck!

Anyone care to comment on which 2-blade is better (faster in cruise)...Hartzell simitar or the McCauley?

Aircraft Spruce is selling TCP for $38 a quart. How much TCP gets added to the fuel...i.e. how quickly will one burn thru a quart of TCP? With a top-off, I have 64-gal useable... Also, can you expound on the differences between TCP and MMO?

The winch option is what I'll look into further -- thanks to your input. I've been using the "whip on wife-n-kids" and that's relatively effective...at getting me into the doghouse! It's those solo days when I have the issues getting her backed into the hangar.