N601RX

You might want to read up on phase separation and how temperature affects phase separation of water and ethanol. At higher temps (on ground) all the water is absorbed in the ethanol. At lower temps (cruise altitude) the water is going to separate again and settle to the bottom of the sumps. Hopefully you can figure out what happens next without actually trying it.

I had skimmed through the logs a few nights ago and noticed that the tach was changed out. The new tach showed 2815, but the total time was a little over 5000. Looks like the ad used the tach time instead of Total Time.

I put their camshaft in my engine when we assembled it. I sent a new camshaft to them to drill and they promised it would be returned the next day. It took over 3 months to get it back. They will not answer the phone, or return calls. The only way to get them to return a call is to leave a message saying you would like to get a quote on a engine overhaul. They told me one story after another and many of the employees left during this time period. After 3 months and getting someone who is based on their field to walk over, I found out that they do not even own the STC for the CAM mod. Someone else owns it and license it to them. They were not paying their bills and he quit providing the paperwork. After getting into contact with the STC owner, he picked up my cam and drilled it the next day and returned it to me. I paid him directly.

Repo's often have missing logs and is also difficult if not impossible to get them to move the plane for an inspection. Probably not going to get them to fix any airworthness items either, It would basically be as is where is with no test flight. It could all work out fine, but there would be some increased risk. They want it gone without spending any money on it and have priced it accordingly.

I was referring to the connecting rod that attaches the piston to the crankshaft.

If the valve head broke off and jammed into the piston then there is a possibility that the connecting rod is bent.

After downloading the data sheet it looks like this is a complete fixture and bulb. I think they are just saying the bulb can replaced easily if need, but since it is a led most people would never need to change it.

It looks like Kendal sold it a few months to someone who lives in Panama city. Jim might know something about what happened? Actually it looks like this plane and Kendal has had some bad luck lately. Looks like his hanger caved in and got the mooney and his stunt plane. http://www.nj.com/hunterdon-county-democrat/index.ssf/2012/10/hurricane_sandy_blows_roof_off.html

When in the center, it should have flow to both ports. As you rotate it in one direction, it should reduce the flow to one port and increase the flow to the other port.

If your the type who likes to help with the work and your mechanic is willing to split the case and send the halves to Divco, it can be repaired relatively cheaply.

That looks like a cheap pre-insulated (blue insulated connector). You need something heavier, those are not made to handle the current and vibration levels that you can see. Home depot has some very heavy un-insulated terminals that will not break or burn up. These are the solid type and are not spilt down the middle. They are in a little plastic bag, with either 1 or 2 per bag. They also have some heavy walled, glue lined headshrink that makes a good strain relief. Its also very important to crimp them with the correct tool, which is not a pair of pliers. Harbor freight has a 6 sided hydraulic die crimper that does a very good job on something this size. You can also use a V block and Punch/hammer. Also be sure the wire is properly suported. Get the size you need, but here is what they look like. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blackburn-6-Stranded-Blue-Compression-Lug-CTL6-10-B1-6/100166073#specifications

My 67F has a stamped metal depression in the baffling behind the #3 to allow air to go down behind it. Does all models not have this? The rear 2 cylinders are slightly warmer 5-10 deg in climb and then they are basically all the same in cruise.

I had the same problem and fixed it with the lasar tiedown/jackpoint and put a nut on the topside. I had to use a slightly longer capscrew so it stuck through enough to put the nut on it.

I had have been looking at the sunspot lx for a while. It should be quit a bit brighter than the whelen. Has anyone saw a demo or comparrison of the two?

http://www.martekled.com/StoreFront.bok

There may only be a small amount of water in the system that normally leaves it open, but in a nose up or down altitude it may be enough to block the tube.

Its a common problem. Glue it in and then pull the safety wire tight. Holding the filler neck while unscrewing the dipstick will help alot.

I don't think the J had them the 1st couple of years.

I think I'm going to corrosion X the inside and then cover the holes with hardware cloth attached with 3m weatherstrip glue. I'm also doing the SWTA 201 windshield, ARI cowl, flap seals and 1pc belly, so hopefully I'll pick up a few kts and some climb performance.

It rained here all weekend and was a little cooler so we started installing the Aileron Gap seals that I had purchased from Lasar a few months ago. Its not a very bad job and took about 2 hrs per side. I also took the opportunity to remove the 3 large dirt dauber nest that were inside the ailerons. Has anyone ever glued hardware cloth over the openings to keep the critters out?

http://www.today.com/video/today/52799421/#52799421

I remember this question coming up before. You should be able to search and find what you are looking for. If I remember correctly, Don Maxwell may have a contact that can repair these.

It works well. I put one in a couple of years ago.

The E/F use a double pass cooler that is more expensive, while the 180 hp ones use a single pass that is cheaper. I remember seeing some graphs that showed the thermal capacity of their cooler vs the competition on their web site a while back . Hopefully they picked some real world test for these comparisons.

Lycoming sells their pistons in 3 weight grades. After manufacturing them they are all weighed and grouped into 3 groups, Heavy, Light, and service grade. Do not mix heavy and light. The service grade falls in the middle and can be used to replace both heavy and light if you do not know which one you have. There is a service bulletin or instruction that describes this. Superior and ECI also manufacture pistons for Lycoming engines. They may not be identical to each other. Lycoming also made many design changes over the years. SI 1243 Lycoming has also produced 3 different versions of wrist pin caps that are not to be mixed. If I remember correctly they may have said to remove the small ones from service. There is a service bullet or instruction that talks about this also. SI 1267 If you can't find them online let me know and I can e-mail you a copy when I get to work tomorrow. All of them are not online, but I had purchased a subscription to them all last year while overhauling my engine.