N201MKTurbo

Take it off and clean it real good by scrubbing it with a tooth brush and comet cleanser until it rinses off clean, inside and out. Then get some 1oz fiberglass cloth and cut it into patches a little bigger than the hole. Apply a thin coat of black RTV around the hole, on the outside and stick on a piece of fiberglass. Then apply a little RTV over the patch and work it into the cloth till it is saturated. Massage it until it fits the shape of the boot folds and doesn’t protrude into the boot. Now apply another piece of fiberglass and cover with RTV. Let it cure overnight. If there are any fringes of fiberglass, trim them with a surgical scissors. Then add another thin layer of RTV to make it look good. All RTV work should be done with rubber gloves on. The RTV layers should be as thin as possible while saturating the fiberglass. The RTV will only bond to the boot if the boot is clean and dry.

Probably easier than finding MEK.

Varsol is mineral spirits.

If it’s the chain, the indicator will move with the electric trim. If it doesn’t, the trim torque tube is disconnected somewhere.

They will probably make you one if you can wait 35 weeks.

It isn't a $10 fan, it is a $15 fan... https://www.elecok.com/sanyo-9ga0412j301-12v-cooling-fan.html https://publish.sanyodenki.com/San_Ace_E/book/data/San_Ace_E.pdf You will have to add the connector.

It depends on the engineers intent was when setting the torque. Was it clamping force, or nut stress to keep the nut from coming loose. I suspect it is neither, and the engineer was being lazy and just deferred to the standard value for the bolt.

They are stop nuts. I hate to be a bad A&P, but I just tighten them good with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

What route do you fly from 54CL to KCPM? Do you do it VFR or IFR?

I was playing my daily crossword puzzle and it occurred to me if you rearrange the letters in Mooney C you get economy.

I loved my M20F. I have a working relationship with my J. Looking at your plane brings back good memories.

You might try to disassemble it, if you can, don’t bother with contact cleaner, you want to sand or file the pits off then polish to about a 1000 grit finish. Those contactors usually have a spring loaded copper disc connected to the solenoid armature that contacts two massive copper posts.

I have repaired two tanks that leaked severely after reseal. One was mine. The other was another Mooneyspacer. Mine seemed to have been rushed. They were not cleaned properly and the sealant wasn't mixed properly. I had sealant that never cured and poor adhesion. Plus the top coat was only applied in the cells with the fuel caps. The other Mooney seems like the stripper was not cleaned out properly and outgassed at almost every seam, blowing bubbles in the sealant. This caused many leaks. In both cases the resealer offered to fix it, but they were booked up for over a year, so you fix it yourself, or be without a plane for a year.

My 67 M20F never leaked. I sold it in 2003 so it was 36 when I sold it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transponder_landing_system