N201MKTurbo

If you were unhappy with what happened, right after you landed, call TRACON on the phone, say who you are and where you landed. Ask them to have the controller who worked you call you back when they have time. Then you can talk about it. You may end up having coffee together talking about airplanes.

You probably had an A-11. It will fit on the yoke. I have enough parts to build one. I’ll have to put it together one of these days.

I bought mine on EBay about 25 years ago. I got a service manual for it and completely disassembled it, cleaned it and put it back together. It was the most complicated mechanical assembly I have ever done. The barrel grease was some strange mil spec that ended up crossing to Aeroshell #6. I needed a tiny dab of it. I used Möbius watch oil for everything else. The specified oil is nowhere to be found. I made a barrel winder out of a tap handle and a piece of copper pipe with a slot in it. It worked great. I got real good at sharpening tiny screwdrivers.

Just be happy it all turned out OK. The TRACON guys around here don’t want to get pilots in trouble, so let’s give them the same courtesy.

No it is in the panel. When I had my M20F I had an LC2 in the yoke. I had to modify it to fit.

I have a Waltham A-13A-1. I think it is the finest aviation clock ever made. http://walthamclocks.com/a-13a-1.html

They must have disconnected something in the trim system. There are a few places where you can get the front gearbox out of sync with the tail. In most cases, you will lose some trim travel. You need to get it straightened out.

BTW, I had an FAA inspector say you cannot inspect powder coated assemblies for cracks. If there is an inspection requirement, he said the powder coating needs to be stripped and reapplied to do the inspection.

An hour or two to disassemble all the gear. Two or three to put it all back together. About a week to strip and paint it all.

The difference between changing the pucks and completely disassembling the gear isn’t that much. Stripping and painting is tedious but not difficult. I have done it like 5 times. Use paint stripper, then scrapers and wire wheels and finish in the blast cabinet. In the past I would just prime with zinc chromate, but those days are gone. So you will have to find a good paint system. Painting tubes is tedious too, but the results are awesome. Buy all new hardware and bushings and you will have essentially new gear.

I have found the pistons wear more than the rings do. Most people just think about the rings sealing on the cylinders, but they seal on the piston as well. The top and bottom of the rings have to form a seal in the groves in the piston. I have found the groves get a taper to them after a while. If you are going to reuse the piston you should clean according to the service manual. It is very tedious. They don’t allow any kind of abrasive blasting. I have found tooth brushes, string and comet cleanser works fastest. Expect at least 1/2 hour per piston, if you are good.

It is possible all your oil consumption is coming from one cylinder. How do your plugs look?

You could pull the cylinders, replace the pistons and rings and re-hone the cylinders for a fraction of that amount. You could get the valves done too, (essentually an overhaul at that point) for about half of the amount above.

Thanks!

I had my left eye done a week ago and my right eye done Tuesday. I was afraid I couldn’t pass my flight physical with my eyes the way they were. My vision was 20/50 with glasses. I’m sitting here on my IPad without glasses and it is easy to read. The best surgery I ever had! They checked my vision on my left eye before they did my right eye. It was 20/20 without glasses. I was able to read the smallest line they showed me, so it was probably better than that. I got the standard lenses. I didn’t have any sedation during the procedure, (I had work to do when I got home) It was easy.