FoxMike

I do not use checklists for cruise, decent, prelanding. Landing is GUMPS. I would recommend for cruise remembering to trim Stabilizer and Rudder as you set the cruise power. Close cowl flaps as oil temperature drops below 205. I try to plan the decent for 300 to 500fpm using reduced power or speed brakes sometimes both. I try to arrive on downwind (gear down) at 100Kts and set 10d flaps on the downwind. At big airports I may need to go faster, at small airports might want to go 90 or 85 but not much slower. Downwind is the time for GUMPS. Try not to run over the slower airplanes in the pattern. They are going 60kts so you need to space yourself appropriately. It takes a reasonable amount of time to get comfortable in a TLS. It would be nice if all instructors had "heavy " Mooney experience but very few do. A friend tried to move into a 252 from 172s..Tried a hotshot instructor who was maybe a good 737 pilot but totally lost in GA airplanes. He talked a great story but could not teach because he had no knowledge. Result was a 252 getting pranked a couple of times. Their are Mooney experienced CFIs but you might have to bring one in for a few days so you can do some intensive training. Getting some time with a knowledgable instructor is well worth whatever it costs. Good Luck!

Here is the checklist I use. Fold in half (vertically) put laminate over it. When I had a Mc Cauley prop I set the power to 28/2300. Set the TIT not more than 1600 and the exhaust will not crack. Good Luck! Mooney Checklist Rev.pdf

I understand the whip antenna can be installed under the dorsal.

If you have a properly working TKS system and the pitot heater is working you should be able to climb normally through a layer of ice. When you let ice become a distraction you can end up mismanaging the engine or make a navigation error that causes even more distraction. I owned a booted Baron for a while years ago. It would climb better than my turbo Mooney up to about 12K then the Mooney did better. I find my FIKI Bravo to be plenty adequate for most icing conditions. Trying to speed up then pull up through an icing layer will work if the ice is 500' thick but if it is1500' thick you find yourself halfway through it out of airspeed and back to a lower climb rate. Now you have a load of ice which you have to carry through to the tops. Lots of times the most ice is just below the tops. I have tried this technique in unprotected airplanes and found it usually does not help much. What you need to know is where are the tops. If you do not know you may become so concerned that your decision making ability becomes impaired and thats the big trouble starts. To my mind a turbo system and and a lot of experience are the best helpers when you get into ice. Having boots or TKS help a lot when and give a lot of peace of mind. They do not give much help when they are not maintained. Many pilots do not maintain these systems because they are not used much and are costly to maintain. Over the years I have had trouble with both boots and TKS systems. When those things happen having a lot of experience is helpful.

The basic works OK. My regular doc does not like the FAA so I had to find another doc. The one I found was miles away and he signed the Basic Med form then wanted me to become a regular patient. Given the distance that was not practical so I may need to find another doc next time. Unfortunately I wanted to go to Canada this summer (they do not recognize the Basic med) so I had to go to a regular 3rd Class. Basic Med should work for most so you might give it a try.

Don, I looked into a Hartzell prop and found they did not have a product for the Bravo. One of their reps at OSH suggested they might design one for the Bravo but they would need me to let them use my airplane for 6 mos. Mc Cauley had a design for an all composite prop (very light weight). I followed that for a while and watched it die a slow death. So the MT or original McCauley are the only games on the planet for the Bravo. After having the MT for 9 months or so I would not go back to the Mc Cauley.

Don, If you are considering an MT up grade plan about 4 or 5 month wait. I ordered right after OSH and it arrived in Deland in Dec.

Not sure this will help but I had my Bravo fall off the front jack many years ago. The airplane dropped but the jack caught the engine mount so the prop. did not hit the floor. Mooney makes a standoff that screws into the front jack point. The standoff had a longer threaded area than the jack point had threads. The standoff when screwed in tight would not allow the bottom of the standoff to contact the jack point. Result the standoff broke at the end of the threads. I was about to get under the airplane as I was replacing the nose wheel donuts. My insurance company paid for a new engine mount and labor to install it. I got off pretty easy but it was an agonizing problem. If I had to decide on an engine repair or replacement I guess I would see how much the insurance will allow. Lyc offered me a rebuilt engine at OSH this year for $59,000. Next step up on pricing is $65,000. The insurance company will likely consider this a betterment and offer less. Overhaul by a local shop might be a lot less as it may only take an inspection and a few parts. Good Luck.

One more thing came to mind. A friend put an MT on his T Arrow about the same time I put mine on the Mooney. He got the stainless leading edges. Already the gravel is abrading the stainless, the nickel edges on mine are smooth as a babies butt. Leaf peeping this weekend and chasing down some $2.50 100LL at Rifle, Co. Atlantic Aviation was the FBO.

Here is an update from a little over a 100Hrs of use. After a few oil changes and an annual I have found a way to put the lower cowl on without too much hassle. You have to put the front up in place before putting the rear in place. It is definitely more difficult with the extra blade but doable. In the hot summer weather the takeoff performance is better than with the 3 blade. Initial climb is better but to get improved climb performance you need to climb at 80-85kts or so. The oil temperature quickly rises so I have found that you have to push over and get the airspeed up to 110IAS or so. The result is only a slight gain in climb rate. Overall I really like the prop. The best like is the smoothness. The second the ability to flare near stall and keep the nose wheel off the runway. The third is the quieter ride. I doubt the cruise is any better but to make MT happy I might report a one knot increase. I used to set the power at 28/2300. I have been using 29- 30/2200 with the 4 blade. Passenger comments so far give high marks to the smoothness and lower racket level in the cabin. The only problem so far is the tow bar. I need to bend over a little farther so the bar will not bump one of the blades during turns. This could be a problem when being tugged. So far the tugs have had the tow ball mounted low enough that it has not been problem. One other nit is taxi RPM needs to be kept around 700-800. Not much of a problem as along the mags are in good shape and you have the engine leaned out. Well, That is about as much as comes to mind.

Could be in bumping the mic jack you have slightly bent the connector. Try the cleaning others have suggested and if it does not work replace the connector. You might look into rudder pedal extensions to move you back a little to prevent your hitting the jack.

I was concerned about TKS fluid causing corrosion back in the first years I owned the Bravo. Years ago several well known shops said that they were finding corrosion is some odd places on TKS equiped airplanes. These shops just suggested the fluid might be corrosive. That idea has been pretty well debunked over the years although I have not seen any scientific data on the subject. I remember at a Mooney convention we had a pretty good discussion about it at the Saturday Banquet. I have not noticed any corrosion problems anywhere on the airframe and the plane was built in 99. What I have found from operating TKS for the over 16 years is the heim bearing on the rudder and elevator in the tail of the aircraft need replacement every decade or so because the fluid runs down the rudder and into the tail and washes the lube off the heim bearing. Not a real big problem but something you need to watch.

I owned a 78 T210 that was booted but not FIKI. Never had a problem with ice. On occasion had 5 adults on board with 90 gals. Good airplane but shopping for a good one is a long an arduous process. Good luck!

One potential problem with a top strobe is back scatter into the cabin especially in the clouds at night. you may want to set it up so you can tun the top beacon off separately. Bottom mounted beacon is less of a problem.

The missing piece is a rubber strip. A Mooney shop could get some for you. Might be a little hassle to install it but any A&P could do it.

Have been operating a Bravo for 15 years. Taxi with mixture lean. As you pul into position on runway mixture goes full rich. On final I always have the engine at less than full rich and do not use the fuel pump. Hint if you ever needed to use full power for a go around you would be so far out of trim that would stand a good chance of stalling the airplane. If you need to go around use partial power until you get the trim set. The airplane will do a fine go around on part throttle.

Years ago I replaced the factory cowl seal with a silicone material. Head temps dropped more than 25dF.

I talked to both BK and Sandia at OSH Tuesday. Sandia offered no information. King said its coming but no date. I am genuinely disappointed. Neither will admit who is doing the software tweaks to get it certified. I guess it will be done when it gets done.

I have a new engine mount that I bought at an auction many years ago. It has been stored in a dry basement for years. Gussetts need to be welded on. I could bring it to OSH for delivery if it were purchased. I will add a picture tomorrow. Part number 590000-505. Asking $450.00.

I have been into OSH many times in a M20E. Conditions very a whole bunch over the week. The grass/taxiway can get badly rutted and you can be directed onto some slopes that will challenge your propeller clearance. Usually things are fine but risk exists. Taxi slowly and try to keep moving. Sometimes traffic will force you to stop but try to anticipate and space yourself out behind the aircraft in front of you . The 500x5 nose wheel can be a problem so be careful . Also practice slow flight so you are comfortable for the long approach.

Order half the pizza you think you will need and let the shop know you will place a second and third order a little later.

I installed a Quattro several years ago in place of the T&B. Works OK although I have never had to rely on it. I had problems with it at first but new software took care of the problem. Having backup altitude is the feature I use the most. The KI 300 is a Quattro with more software and a pigtail.

One risk to buying and storing parts is the potential of an AD note applying to some of the inventory. I think you have a reasonable plan if you start collecting maybe a year or so prior to overhaul.

I wonder if on Monday when the location of the tent is known someone could post to this thread the location. It may save some shoe leather.

On the exhaust side of the intercooler duct you should have a thin piece of stainless riveted to the duct. On your airplane a careless mechanic probably destroyed it.