markejackson02

The vacuum pump is cheap (relatively) and easy to replace. I would fly home without it but wouldn't fly off on a new trip without it.

Does anyone have a pinout diagram for a CFS 1001A? I am trying to set the fill-up level and it needs to be powered on while you change the DIP switches in back. Thx

Oh it bonds to everything. My shirt, my pants, my workbench...... Once on and cured, it is pretty hard to remove. Requires a chemical solvent and lots of scraping with plastic tools.

I believe the only difference between the 978 UAT and the 1090 ES was that the 978 was supposed to be used by GA to reduce congestion on the 1090 frequency. In terms of the info it transmits for traffic to the FAA, etc, they are identical.

I'm building RV-8 fuel tanks. I don't think there is a huge advantage to putting lots of sealant in between skins/spars/stiffeners. Almost all of it gets squeezed out. Careful application over the seams is a lot more important.

There should be a heat shield in place there. My original wore out, got replacement material from Spruce, about 12x12 and put it back in with contact cement.

I would highly recommend going to YouTube and watching Gyrocopter Girl's channel...

I had an Aspen in the old M20C and it was awesome. Attitude, altitude, airspeed, vsi all in one glance. Coupled to a 430W, it made approaches ridiculously easy. It was expensive, but I loved it.

I had the yokes in my 67 C redone by them and they turned out great. Much better than the leather steering wheel wraps a lot of people put on.

It was $900 to overhaul including parts and I believe 8 hours labors to R&R then swing the gear.

Mine burned out in flight November. If I recall it was about $800 to overhaul. Took about 50 turns to get the gear down.

I did the same. I would recommend it as I still had a $5000 first annual to get things fixed up. But the process was very transparent and they were easy to work with. The second plane I bought was a hangar queen where the only pre-buy was to make sure there were no major corrosion issues. I assumed everything else would have to be replaced and boy was I right....

Updating the thread after my last annual. Boyd took apart the standby vacuum system. The check value was all gummed up and not working. It was allowing the #4 cylinder to run leaner than all the others. After that was fixed and everything back together, the #4 temp only got up to 400 with the cowl flaps closed at 75% power at 2000'.

The NBAA wants to selectively block people's ability to receive ADS-B transmissions. (http://www.wsj.com/articles/business-aviation-close-to-retaining-flight-privacy-protections-1450556265) I'm very curious how they plan on doing this. They could encode the transmissions which would require replacing the entire ADS-B infrastructure. The article suggests that they are going adopt some sort of rotating code system where the ADS-B code for every plane changes on a timely basis. Would this also require a substantial retooling of the ADS-B system? I can't really see how any of their proposed solutions could be implemented in anything less that a maybe 5 more like 10 year time frame. Am I off base on this? I know very little about the technical side of ADS-B implementation.

Well, turns out I was installing the parts correctly, it is just that the old hose is basically crumbling. So now have to think about pulling all new hoses. What I get for buying a 40 year old plane :-) As an aside, I can't say enough about how helpful and nice the folks at Brittain have been. Fast turnaround on everything, answered all my questions, and provided scads of documents for free.

If you're going to have the entire plane painted, the paint shop should remove the corrosion, acid etch or alodine, prime, and then paint. I would talk to whoever is going to paint before you do anything. If the paint job is a year away or you are just going to touch up, I would remove the corrosion (use the maroon 3M Scotchbrite pads), brush on some alodine, then prime with Zinc Chromate or an expoy primer and then touch it up.

Talked to Brittain. They changed the part color from white to black. So they did ship it with the overhauled servos. I did try again but the hose pulls out easily. Gonna take pcitures so I can make sure I'm installing it correctly.

Goo-Off worked perfectly.

see. I learn something new every time I touch the plane. :-) thanks

yes it's the little white thing at the end of the hose directly in the center of the picture.

Reinstalled the overhauled servos. Three of four are fine. In the left wing the tubing will not stay attached to the servo. On the other three hoses, there appears to be some sort of white plastic that forms a lip which the compression fitting then holds in place. It is not there on the left tube. Does anyone know what this stuff is? It is definitely not Teflon or tape.

What kind of cleaners can be used on a 201 cowling. Want to remove some old adhesive but don't want to hurt the fiberglass.

Yeah, I was yesterday told under no circumstances to thin with a volatile/flammable thinner for misting. Spray painting with larger droplets is okay, but misting is a big no no.

Want to spray CorrosionX in the wings. I have a sprayer that does a great misting job with thinner liquids (http://www.sureshotsprayer.com/SteelSprayers.html). CorrosionX appears to be too viscous for it to mist. Can CorrosionX be thinned? Thinking alcohol or acetone. Really don't want to pony up $800 for a spray system.

The original rheostat on my 77 201 flickers terribly. Is there a replacement part available? The part number is JS1N056P251MA which is pretty useless. Appears to be a Honeywell/Clarostat piece. Anyone know the specs?