markejackson02

I'm having an issue with high CHT in cruise. When I start the plane and take off/climb, cowl flaps open, FT/rich, CHT is 360-380 in climb, pretty normal (OAT = 92). When I level off and run 25/25, if I close the cowl flaps the CHT's on #1, #3, and #4 are all over 400, #4 touching 450. Running with the cowl flaps wide open gets them down ~ 390, so I left the flaps open and landed. I have just fixed the top engine baffling so that it seals correctly. Is there something in the bottom of the cowling that I should be looking for? Seems like the airflow with the cowl flaps closed is obstructed or somehow compromised. This is a new engine with ~20 hrs since overhaul but I would have expected the cylinders to be broken in by now with temps in a normal range. Mark Jackson M201 N201TK KAXH

Sorry. I had bought new camlocs, those are all fine. It is the washer that I can't figure out. They aren't retaining washers that come with the camlocs. These washers are much larger and thinner. I have been able to find washers of the same diameter but they are three times as thick as the mystery washer. I tried a grommet but these are flat washers, no lip on them. Mark Jackson

My 201 has the usual camloc studs holding the cowling on. Some of them have a washer under them to increase the tension and prevent chaffing? They came this way. I cannot for the life of me figure out what kind of washer this is. I have ordered practically one of everything Aircraft Spruce carries as well as Lowes. Any idea what these washers are? Thanks Mark Jackson

I ended up getting "Binding Post Screws" aka Chicago Screws. Folded over the baffling and inserted the screws, which I topped with RTV sealant to prevent chaffing on the cowling.

Curious to hear how it goes as I just got a GEM to replace the thirty five year old EGT gauge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It came with the overhauled engine. They r&r a lot of the sheet metal around the engine as well.

The first flight with the baffling fixed resulted on temps that didn't get much above 50% of the green. Going to visit the PMA dept at Lowes to get the correct screws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have your corners.... They are not. I thought about riveting the corners so they were folded inwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have a new engine in a 1977 J model. New baffling. Have had high oil temps and was trying to get the baffling folded properly to make sure the airflow is good. Sunday, I removed the cowling top to fold the baffling over. The baffling tends to curl backwards so just dropping the cowling on means it's all messed up. An hour later, using dowling rods and much colorful language, I finally got all the baffling folded properly with the cowling closed. There's got to be a better way. Anyone have any tried and true methods for doing this? Thanks Mark Jackson N201TK M20J KAXH

It is a 1977 14 Volt J model. The electrical diagram that came with the POH is rudimentary to say the least. I have a parts manual but cannot find the bulbs referenced for the 14 V version.

I can't seem to find instructions on replacing the lights in the glareshield. Before I start removing screws, are they standard 330 bulbs? Mark Jackson N201TK M20J KAXH

It's not the jacks or the alternator. It happens on either side and goes away. It's not the alternator as I can hear slight noise from the gear motor but nothing from the strobes or landing light. I will get in touch with Sigtronics and probably send it in for fixing. Thx for the suggestions.

Have an older sigtronic intercom in the new M20J. Right after starting the engine or powering up the avionics, it is unusable due to heavy static. After about 10 minutes, it warms up and functions perfectly. Is this indicative of any specific failure? Mark Jackson M20C N201TK KAXH

These are the factory gauges The first 1.5 hour flight was at 2,000' 25.5/2500 which is ~75 power for 45 min, then 23.5" ~65 for 30 min then 25.5/2500

I just put an overhauled engine in N201TK. I have been running at high power for the first few hours to break the cylinders in. At 4500, 25 squared, 100 ROP I have had a very hard time keeping the oil temps in the green. Two flights ago I had to open the cowl flaps keep it in the green. Pressure and CHT are normal albeit a little high since the engine is running hard. We fixed up the baffling and adjusted the cowl flaps to trail 1/4 inch in cruise, after which the temps stayed green but at the high end (like 215-225). New cooler, new vernatherm, fresh overhauled engine. Is there anything obvious to check that would help bring the temps down? This isn't going to work in South Texas in the summer when it's 110 on the ground. Also, my cowl flaps only have the open or close position. Open at cruise makes everything in the plane shake. I can trail them by holding the handle open an inch but it is hard as heck. This is a 1977 201 (24-0048) so an early model. Is it possible to trail them manually? Mark Jackson

Hmm, I am going to be doing this solo a lot so I'm thinking of building a rolling cradle to prop up the bottom cowling. Gonna go measure tonight. In the meanwhile I'll try the bungee cord on the bottom cowling. Mark

I need to remove the cowling to check the exhaust system. On the old C model this was easy. Are there any instructions on how to remove the cowl on the M20J? I have not seen any in the POH or maintenance manual. I assume you have to disconnect the cowl flaps and the landing light. How do you reach them with the cowl on? Seems like a rather involved process for something that should be done once every couple months. Thanks Mark Jackson

I was able to use the override switch this weekend. The donuts will need to be replaced but at $200 a pop, that will have to wait another few months. Hopefully warmer weather will cause them to expand.

I do have the override switch. Going to try that on jacks and see if the switch closes. Sounds like new shock donuts are in order.

Solapp in Sugarland (near Houston) did an Aspen/430W in my old plane, did great job on time and on budget.