Pinecone

Love the Elan. As well as the Europa and Super 7. I heard that the design criteria for the Miata was that it was modeled after the Elan and looked like it from 30 meters. No way it could be as light as a 60s/early 70s vehicle. Too much required stuff, including a lot more structure for crash resistant. Also Colin Chapman was known for making things as light as possible. He was quoted a saying I make things lighter until they break, then I back up one iteration.

If a valve is leaking, it is NOT OK.

Good find for the PDF, as the actual book is about $270 on Amazon. FYI, the major reason you want the wing to stall root first is that if one tip stalls first, the wing drops VIOLENTLY. The original configuration of the Tomahawk was with outboard stall strips only. They wanted the stall to be not so benign for training purposes. These was an SB (maybe an AD) to install inboard stall strips to tame the stall. I did my CFI spin training in a Tomahawk (even though I had done spins in a 7KCAB and 8KACB, Great Lakes, and T-37). The entry was IMPRESSIVE. Basically a half snap roll to inverted, then the nose fell through a become a typical spin. BTW, if you ever spin a Tomahawk, DO NOT LOOK AT THE TAIL. Very scary. It really twists and turns.

So, if it doesn't work out, you have paid for and given the owner a free annual. Better is to do the pre-buy inspection, but not close it up. If the deal goes forward, finish the annual for YOU.

I did 5 take offs and landings to a full stop in one pass down the runway in a Citabria. SAC base aero club airplane. So 11,700 foot runway.

I got back into flying about 18 months ago after a 20 year hiatus. I decided to buy and looked at fast fun planes. I did my PPL in a Tiger many years ago, and always loved to fly them. But the price versus equipment ratio was poor. And at the time, not many were for sale. I had always liked the Mooney and wanted one. So I started looking at the various models. I decided on a turbo for the flexibility and eventual travel in the west. I wanted a "small engine" for fuel economy. This was last spring when fuel prices seemed to have no ceiling price. Once I made those two decisions, the only choice, for me, was the 252. I am loving flying in the mid-teens (very little traffic, and what is there is normally climbing through or descending through), with a 174 KTAS on 10.3 GPH. Works for me.

So you need 3 AI and 3 navs.

But I no longer carry it with me. It stays at home and gets updated occasionally. I lost a log book in a crash. And lost some hours, as I had not transferred them to my electronic logbook (AeroLog Pro at the time).

Probably because polyester resin does not stick well to cured polyester resin. On my race ca body, I use epoxy for all repairs.

Remember you can log from first movement for flight to the last movement after flight. So probably at least 2 minutes each end, so at least 0.1

FYI, my BMW M3 is almost 21 years old, original doors seals treated with Gummi Pflege.

I use Safe Log Pro. And it backs up to their cloud, plus, you can sync to all your devices. So I have a copy in the cloud, one on my phone, on two tablets, two desktops and a laptop. Oh, and I also keep a paper log book.

There is a product from Germany called Gummi Pflege, that is specifically for treating rubber door seals on Germany cars. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Mechanic should have determined where the air was going. Which pressure is applied to leaking cylinder, listen at the intake, exhaust, and oil filler. That will help determine the path forward.

Except for those costs of operation give you the operation of the aircraft (or car or living in the house). Yes, they are part of the total cost of ownership, but, IMO, not a part of the value versus purchase price.

This is why I do all my practice approaches hand flown. Train to worst case.

China can make high quality parts. It depends on what the customer specs and the QC they do on the parts.

Pretty young to be married.

Yeap. GSO rate for reimbursement of driving your own car is currently 62.5 cents per mile. So at the current rate of 14,263 per year, that is $8900 per year. And that is based on a car, so a truck (lower mileage and higher price for diesel) will be higher. And I am not sure that includes insurance, registration. I think it only includes costs for actually driving (gas, tires, oil, maintenance). BTW, the reimbursement rate for private aircraft is $1.74 per statute mile.

I would not count operating costs against the resale. You don't count the electricity, water, sewage, gas/oil etc on a home. Heck, you don't count taxes and insurance either. You don't count gas, maintenance, tires, oil, insurance on a car either.

The rating is for two temperatures. All oils get thicker when colder and thinner with hotter. The question is how much. Full synthetics don't get really thick until stupid low temps. So yes, the curves will diverge. But LOTS of data out there on multi viscosity oils. If you do oil analysis, you can get data on the actual viscosity at the two temps for your used oil.

I came here the same way. To learn and find a good plane. After reading here and other sources, I decided that I really wanted a 252. So that is what I bought. Actually a 252 upgraded to Encore specs.

True. But thinking forward about how to set up my panel when I do an upgrade.

That is the definition. Yes, it is when the oil is new. Synthetic oils are naturally multi viscosity, as the viscosity by weight is based on regular oils. Non-synthetic multi viscosity oil use viscosity improvers. They are molecules that change from small to larger with temperature. So as they get warm, the viscosity increases. These do get sheared and stop working over time. But in aircraft, we tend to change the oil much more frequently that cars, so not a huge problem.

A 20W-50 multi weight oil is the same viscosity when hot as a straight 50 weight. Cold, it is the same a cold straight 20 weight.