Pinecone

Jumping onto this thread. What I am seeing is low oil temp and low pressure. TSIO-360-SB. Both stock gauges and JPI 830 (not primary) installed. I understand that the JPI numbers will be different due to different sensor locations. But on a recent trip, the analog oil pressure seemed to be 60 - 65 psi (hard to say with minimal markings). JPI reads 52 - 54 psi. Oil temp- analog is very low. Maybe 1/4 of the way up the green arc, so maybe 140. JPI reads 166. Just out of annual, and they adjusted the oil pressure relief up some. What say the experts?

I did not count all the model airplane engines. I am sure more than 20 of them from over the years. Including a Cox .010. TINY little thing.

Need one more EIS strip for CHT. But don't really need to see EGT all the time. I would be fine with showing the hottest only, and tap to expand.

I would get something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DMP180ZX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Inflator/dp/B085DV34VC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=35IULSLCQ08EW&keywords=air+compressor+makita&qid=1672926807&sprefix=air+compressor+makita%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Power-Inflator/dp/B07F88XL24/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1I36T2ITZ0SOM&keywords=air+compressor+ryobi&qid=1672926865&sprefix=air+compressor+ryobi%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/AUTDER-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Cigarette/dp/B09JFPN1NP/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3TJPW0YEBUPEB&keywords=air+compressor+milwaukee&qid=1672926887&sprefix=air+compressor+milwaukee%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-12&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840 I wish MIlwaukee made a smaller and lighter one, then I could use the battery from my Sidewinder.

And it makes a lot of sense to spend 3 AMU, plus install to avoid buying a $540 probe.

When we got our sail boat, we initially thought trailerable. But figured out we would need a truck to tow is, so when not just buy a bigger sailboat. Sailboat had 1 (yes ONE) cylinder. With airplane, race car, daily driver, performance car, collector car, SUV for hauling stuff, I have 34 also.

There is. Some carriers will reduce your rate for recurrent training, like the Mooney PPP or the Beech equivalent. And most require some hours with an instructor initially. Mine wanted 5 hours dual to check out, then 5 hours solo before carrying passengers.

Mine wasn't so bad. And at least the Magneti Marelli electrics worked.

I have had all three, but not at the same time. Used to own a Laser 28 sailboat. Faster that most bigger boats. Hmm, is there a pattern somewhere in there? Also have performance cars (two M3s).

Hmm, those sound familiar.

I have to check. It is right outside the door. About the middle of the door.

Just did some reading. If it was a Super 7, it had be a Series 2. Before that was the 7 (no Super) Series 1 and 2. The Series 3 came out in 68, so your could not have been one. The Series 3 is what the current Caterham cars are based on. The Series 4 was all fiberglass body. Swoopy looking. As for reliability, my intro to sports cars was a Fiat 850 Spider. I got it my senior year in high school. By the time I was done, it was pretty much an Abarth

Also thanks. I may have to do this same repair. However, if it turns out the leak is at a rivet, is there an easy way to fix it?

I BOW DOWN to you. Both for having some cool cars, and surviving the experience. Which series Super 7? I know purists like the Series 3 best, but I was always partial to the looks of the Series 4.

That is fine. BUT you do need to figure out why the valve is leaking. It may not be a big thing, but it could be. Of, if you did the compression test and found a valve leaking, would you ignore it? Or determine why? Which may be simple or not.

Bruce's Covers has a plug for the NACA duct. I have one for my plane.

There is a big difference between water being sucked into the fuel system and sprayed through the injectors and several ounces or cups of water being sucked in through the air intake system.

Again, we are saying the same thing, pretty much. FYI, AC20-106 states - "On wet sump engines, inspect the sump for evidence o:f leaks. Remove oil sump plug and inspect for foreign particles. Remove, inspect, and clean oil sump strainers." How do you remove the sump plug without removing the oil? I guess you could put it back in. TEASING YOU

252 has 165 KIAS max gear extended.

That makes sense. Or at least, the saw no reason to make, stock, and install different weights, and standardized them. In that case, they are not really required to fly safely, to comply with the factory drawings, you need them.

We are saying similar things. But there is more to an annual that just the inspection. Lubrication, adjusting things. I would not do those things (and pay for them) until the final agreement based on anything found during the inspection portion.

Love the Elan. As well as the Europa and Super 7. I heard that the design criteria for the Miata was that it was modeled after the Elan and looked like it from 30 meters. No way it could be as light as a 60s/early 70s vehicle. Too much required stuff, including a lot more structure for crash resistant. Also Colin Chapman was known for making things as light as possible. He was quoted a saying I make things lighter until they break, then I back up one iteration.

If a valve is leaking, it is NOT OK.

Good find for the PDF, as the actual book is about $270 on Amazon. FYI, the major reason you want the wing to stall root first is that if one tip stalls first, the wing drops VIOLENTLY. The original configuration of the Tomahawk was with outboard stall strips only. They wanted the stall to be not so benign for training purposes. These was an SB (maybe an AD) to install inboard stall strips to tame the stall. I did my CFI spin training in a Tomahawk (even though I had done spins in a 7KCAB and 8KACB, Great Lakes, and T-37). The entry was IMPRESSIVE. Basically a half snap roll to inverted, then the nose fell through a become a typical spin. BTW, if you ever spin a Tomahawk, DO NOT LOOK AT THE TAIL. Very scary. It really twists and turns.

So, if it doesn't work out, you have paid for and given the owner a free annual. Better is to do the pre-buy inspection, but not close it up. If the deal goes forward, finish the annual for YOU.