Pinecone

Agreed. I know the situation with the Garmin setup, as I am looking at that in the future. I already have a GTN-650 and GTX-345, so staying Garmin gets all the interaction and playing together.

It increases the friction so the screwdriver doesn't spin around. A guy I knew was the first person I know to sell it. At shows he screw a Philips screw into something, then purposely mess up the screw. He would have to you try to remove the screw. NO WAY. A drop of screw grab, and it came out like a new undamaged screw. The spit and Ajax that AH64 mentioned is the same idea. But Screw Grab works better. This is the company of the guy I know - https://www.solderit.com/ His Solder-It products are also pretty amazing.

Similar for me KCAE to 0W3. https://flightaware.com/live/flight/N252VM IFR all the way though, until about 10 miles out of 0W3. IFR departure allowed us to climb through the broken layer to a super smooth ride.

You have that backwards. Trim drag is from induced drag created by the tail in countering the main wing forces caused by the center of pressure being aft of the CG. The more main wing pitching forces, the more counter lift (downwards) by the tail which increases induced drag. This is why aft CG is faster. The CG is closer to the wing center of pressure, so less pitching force, needing less tail force to counter act. The fastest CG position would be where the CG was at the same chord point as the center of pressure. But the plane would be unflyable.

A Fowler flap is one that the flap moves aft as it goes down. Cessna flaps do this. They are technically a single slotted Fowler flap.

IMO, part of the issue was that they did have the nose near the horizon and a reasonable power setting, but did not realize that the aircraft was stalled. This based on a couple of accounts I have read. And that is where stalling a swept wing and a straight wing are different. In swept wing you don't get the break with the nose well below the horizon.

Yes, they are good fun, and everyone should do some. One caveat, if you do spins in a Tomahawk, do NOT look back at the tail. For the most fun, see if you can find an original Tomahawk. It will have stall strips only installed in the outer 1/3 of the wing. There was an SB to install inboard strips and it greatly tames the behavior. With only the outboard strips, it half snaps to inverted, then the nose falls through to be very nose low in the actual spin. Spinning a Cessna will give you a false sense that spins are very benign and hard to maintain. I have spun Citabrias (several models), Decathalons, Pitts (various S-2 models), CAP-10, Cessna 150, Tomahawk, Great Lakes, and T-37, that I recall.

As far as I can tell, the numbers are the same between Champion and Tempest, except you add AA to the beginning for Tempest. So Champion 48103-1 becomes Tempest AAA48103

Come on, think LONG term.

It is more people who half heartedly run LOP. And don't run lean enough.

I am not suggesting this is a fix. But for a person who is going to fly anyway, it would help. Not, you can clean it out well, but a low viscosity material will soak in some. Used to own a sailboat, but never cast a keel. My boat had a 1500 POUND keel.

This stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Align-Rite-Screwgrab/dp/B0000DD2JZ Then Dremel a slot.

I took a quick look and there is a hole in the fuselage where the original beacon was. Round, probably 3.25" but I did not measure. So it seems one of these could be mounted with putting a hole in the cover plate. The base of this unit is only 2.9" long. Right now there is a plate mounted to to the inside of the fuselage, and not flush

If it isn't much more for 100, get them and offer then to others. Maybe leave one edge unfinished, so they can by owner made.

Hmm, last two days, my clearance did not change from the one I got from Clearance Delivery, except for a couple of Directs. But those were for fixes on my routing, so very easy to go direct to a fix already in the flight plan in the Garmin 650.

Lead expands as it corrodes. So it would expand, cracking the outer shell. Hmmm, I would possibly consider flowing some low viscosity epoxy, like WEST System into the cracks if I were thinking of flying before having them replaced.

Yeap. Started casting in college to save money. And when I was a kid, somehow we ended up with some molds for cast lead military miniatures. And lead fishing weights. So did some casting of those, and played with the toys. I have to see if my Dad still has those molds.

So if you hold the input and spin into the ground you don't die????? The T-37 will continue to spin without positive recovery controls. And there are a number of aircraft that will not recover from a spin after a few turns, even with full anti spin control input. That is why they do the testing with a spin chute installed. Most light aircraft only need opposite rudder, at most, to recover. The Briggs/Mueller (I first read about it in Mueller's book Flight Unlimited) is Throttle Idle, Stick/Yoke Release, Rudder Full Opposite spin direction. I agree that many aircraft will recover will just hands off, but not all.

You can advertise here. BeechTalk would be another good place. And eBay.

If you are in or near a larger city, there should be a plastics store. They would be worth a run by.

Old school you REALLY wanted to hear As Filed. Otherwise after you got your clearance, you had to figure out where it went on those paper charts. And enroute, you really hated to get an amended clearance, so you had to do that in the air. Yesterday, I filed using the Fore Flight recommended route. I got an email to expect that route. Flight Aware said the same thing. When I called for my clearance, it was totally different. Later I found an email from ForeFlight that my expected routing had been changed, to what I actually got. At least now days they spell every named intersection and give you the ID of any VOR or airport used in your route.

Exactly. Somewhere was a report that the basic idea was developed in the 40s. It also took vision to not look at meeting the ASTM spec, but to get the fuel approved without meeting that standard.

I have been casting lead alloy for many years. I get it from scrap metal dealers. Or friends who get it from various sources and sell it in reasonable portions (they buy by the ton). Or order it from someone like Rotometals. I have a lead casting pot. But I have also used a cast iron pan or pot and normal stove. Just don't EVER use that pan or pot for cooking.

You are melting the lead, not boiling it.

No, but the AF447 showed them in a classic swept wing stall. Nose near the horizon, not accelerating with climb thrust, and massive vertical speed down, with the stick held full aft (and the airplane had reverted to the where the controls directly controlled the surfaces, like in non-FBW aircraft).