Jsno

Be sure to pulll the side panels and check the tubing for corrosion. Also be sure to pull the seats and carpets and check the spar for corrosion. Any metal in the filter will probably be a bad cam.

Preoil when you start it up in 3 months.

Sounds like a bad experience. The cam probably galled because it was not properly prelubed per the O/H manual and Lycoming SL. Sounds like the cylinders were just removed and installed. Lycoming has a list of parts replacement required to state that it is an overhaul. They may not have even been replaced. If they are nickel or Chrome you cannot hone them. Hate to say this but you probably should contact the FAA and let them inspect the shop.

At that price I think I will pursue a field approval for an induction box.

M20Doc is 100% right on the above posting

From Flame Master technical bulletin. CURE The cure period is dependent on the application life, temperature, and relative humidity. Increased temperature and increased relative humidity will speed cure. Reduced temperature and reduced relative humidity will slow cure. Accelerate cureby heating up to 120 deg. F. STORAGE LIFE The storage life of CS 3330 CI is nine months when stored at temperatures below 80 deg. F in the original containers. Some change in application life, viscosity and curing rate may occur during this period, however, such changes are slight and in not way effect the end performance of the product.

I do stand corrected. Freezing will actually extend shelf life but heat shortens it.

Polysulfide sealant cures with moisture. You could try misting some water on it and see if it cures. I would wait three days to see if it hardens, if not the sealant was a bad batch. May not have been stored at the proper temperature or may have been frozen to overheated during shipping. If it hasn't cured in three days you will have to redo.

I have removed all four and sent them to Air Parts of Lock Haven for overhaul. The only reference in any manual was the electrical drawing for the system and the IPC. Just to be safe take photos of the connections and mark them with tape before disconnecting to ensure that you wire them correctly while going back in. I used new gaskets and new plastic inserts for the screws that prevent the transmitter from grounding out.

if it has been sitting I would suggest pulling a cylinder so that you can get a good view of the Cam and tappets. If you have a fresh oil change and filter on it before a pretty inspection you may not find any metal indicating cam damage. A cylinder can be pulled and reinstalled in a day.

Just curious, exactly what part are you waiting for that is taking one year? I may be able to source one if you have the P/N.

Then I will say no more...

I am on my third aircraft project. It is a M20F. My last one was a Skyhawk that took 7 years. Completely reworked everything on it because I am a perfectionist. Back to my Mooney; I bought it out of an estate for a low price rather than an RV because it is fast enough and can haul more than an RV. It of course has turned out to be more than I thought because the camshaft had corroded and galled sending lots of metal through the oil system. That was from sitting for 3 years before the sale. Lesson learned about a sitting Lycoming. I am an A&P and overhauling, (disassembly and assembly), myself and taking my time. Over the years I have met many interesting people that I would not otherwise if I just went to the airport, flew, and went home. I help them, even giving people spare parts and labor, and they reciprocate. So it's not just the flying, it is also the community at the smaller airports and that is the point of owning a Mooney that you have missed. I don't know where you are located but find a good mechanic that is familiar with Mooneys, or a better shop. Parts can be found on the internet, EBAY, BASS, Dawson Aircraft Salvage, Texas Air Salvage and Loewen's. Eventually you will have all of the major bugs worked out and then you will get the rewards of owning a Mooney.

If you are waiting a year for a part, have you scrounged all of rte salvage yard sites. There are parts out there that are serviceable.

I thought about the Powerflow exhaust but after reading reviews about it I opted for a new original exhaust. Knisely Welding makes one for about half of what a Powerflow runs. Still putting the engine together but this spring will find out how well the system works.

There are posts on mooney space on removing the nose truss and compressing it in a hydraulic presss to replace the pucks. Also check for blue stains on the interior wing root and front and rear spar. Now is the time to seal any leaks.

I cannot find any reference to them in two IPCs that I have. Knots to U has some and fit 68 to 99 models, so probably can use any that you fine on the internet. I would consider it a minor mod since it does not affect airworthiness. I am sure that there are other opinions. BAS parts sales has a nice used set for sale.

Mooney manual refers you to use AC 43.13 for repairs.

If you land gear up you might damage the tie downs!

If you land gear up you might damage the tie downs!

I had a tank that had trees like yours. The previous fix was to smash coat it. The fuel intake screen was half closed up from this and the drain holes in the ribs were covered. I used polygon with a little success. The splash coat had to be dissolved with MEK first though. I had better success with Stewart Systems paint stripper that I had left over form a previous project. I then primed and resealed the areas with BMS 1828, a two part epoxy sealant. Still finishing other things on the aircraft so in the future will find out how well I did..

Cessna has a SB to remove them due to possibly breaking loose and clogging the muffler. I pulled my exhaust during o/h and after 900 hours they are intact. There are plenty of articles about why they are there so I won't go into that. I would suggest having the muffler pressure checked for leaks. I'm getting a whole new system from Knisely.

I have had my floats overhauled. They are somewhat accurate. I have installed digital in a previous airplane and through they are accurate they vary according to pitch of the aircraft. I think fuel flow is the most accurate way to determine how much fuel that you have. As far as a leaking drain, If it is well maintained a non issue. Plus you will see it on the ground during a preflight. More likely to have fuel seeps from tank seams.

Is that 400 hours after the muffler was rebuilt?

I fly with Basic Med under Avemco. No problem.