Jsno

From the wires going to it I wonder if it is some kind of audio alarm system.

I am doing something similar to my 1969. Are the wires marked with tape going to the black box? It looks like something for the auto pilot. Before removing anything you should trace the wires and study your wiring diagrams in the MM manual to underStand what they are for before removing anything.

I followed the wire and it led to the Britain auto pilot. The VME C/B is optional in the Maintenance manual. So I just need to relabel it.

No radio altimeter. I could trace it but I am just wondering what VME stands for.

Is there anything easy on a Mooney???

Yes I could but I was hoping for the easy answer

I am troubleshooting some electrical shorts and am also replace my old circuit breakers due to the fact that it takes a pair of pliers to pull them. One of them is a 2 amp breaker labeled VME. What system is that going to?

If you painted with poly, covers will not mar it after it hardens

It to tired of the mess so I installed a remote oil filter.

I just balanced mine today. I bought an assortment of bolts and washers. Turned out I only had to add 1 AN960 washer to a prop spinner screw. 1 Ounce. Didn’t need to remove the spinner. It has a fresh O/H on the prop and engine so I guess I did a good job on the engine. When I picked up the prop at the prop shop, I was told to that a dynamic balance would be needed to ensure the prop had no issues. Was able to find a balancer that a guy let me borrow so it was free.

I think with the comments that the FAA got someone grew som common sense.

The boards are made out of thin plywood with the scales bolted to them. I don’t think that they would be easy to copy. A used set if you find them will run $1500.00. You can by new from a Mooney Maintenance center but that will be very expensive. Keep an eye out and if you see them on E-Bay or here. Grab them quick.

I would just drill them out and reshoot them. They are working for a reason. The Mooney Maintenance manual allows you to restrike a rivet if fuel leaks. I haven’t had much luck because the rivet I probably hardened and you will just crack it. As far as shooting wet, I have done that with rivets into fuel tanks. You may even have to step up to the next size rivet.

The nickel cylinders do not wear. It’s the very soft rings that wear in. 40 minutes of 75% power will do it. Just be sure to keep low RPM running on a ground to the minimum before the break in flight. I think the rep that you talked too was very inexperienced and instead of admitting lack of knowledge he BSd you. It is critical to seat those rigs properly. If the cylinders have glazed you can fly it for many hours and they will not seat. The only option then is to remove them and hone the cylinders.

Another possible reason for the oil consumption is that the compression rings might have been installed wrong side up. This will allow oil to blow by.

Mistakes can be made at even the best shops. Human factors.

the instructi0ns that came with my nickel cylinders says to idle at 12/1400 rpm for two minutes with a 15 minute cooling time period, for three times. Then fly for 30-40 minutes high cruise power. I did this on a previous engine that I overhauled and the temps came down rapidly. Also oil consumption was good. It took about 5 more hours to fully stabilize. Did you use break in oil? Also the nickel is extremely hard. So hard they cannot be replated. I would question if they were the correct rings for nickel if it was not breaking in. All of the wear is on the rings. I would not use a hone on the cylinders. I would just replace the rings and ensure that they are for nickel.

I have my A&P so I was only thinking of it from a parts cost perspective and not shop labor.

If your metal pile is as wide as a pencil eraser Lycoming recommends that you repair it. If it is steel it is probably the cam and tappets. You could replace those in a short time. That would get you to your reman engine.

I overhauled mine during the Covid shortage. I bought overhauled nickle plated cylinders from JJAircraft

Even paint under the nut can cause failure. I cover the area around the holes when I paint, and if the cylinder comes with paint around the holes I strip it in the area prior to installing the nuts to get a proper torque that will hold. The area around your cylinder bolt hole looks like it had paint.

I like to use the sealant with long working life such a B-2 rather than B 1/2. That is 1/2 hour vs 2 hours. Temperature and humidity affect the cure times. So I do mine in the morning when it is cool.

I am in the process of resealing one of my tanks. It takes a lot of time and incredible patience to strip the tank. You will need plastic and nylon scrapers that you can find on aviation supply sites. Do not use metal scrapers. You will also need to use Polygone sealant stripper. It comes in gel and liquid form. I used gel. You have to keep stirring it on the sealant with a nylon brush. I would initially scrap what I could off and then apply stripper and let it sit overnight. That usually loosens and splash coat and will start working the sealant loose. Although it is safe to use be sure to wear gloves or your hands will be severely dehydrated. Also use good ventilation. I used alcohol to neutralize the stripper and wipe off dissolved sealant with lint free wipes. I just kept scraping followed by more stripper until I got the majority off. I did use picks to dig out the sealant from corners and around rivets. Be careful to not scratch the aluminum. This was followed by wiping down with alcohol, acetone then finally with MEK. Be careful with the MEK as it is very toxic. After cleaning then Scotch Brite the areas that were scratched and apply alodine to it to prevent corrosion. Followed by more cleaning with acetone or MEK. I also found the removing the fuel outlet tube and screen allows you to reach the inboard aft corner much easier as the screen will either get broken or covered in sealant. Its four rivets. For sealant use PRC 1422 B or PPG 870 B for fillet sealing and on each rivet. Then after it sets up brush a thin coat of 1422 A2, or PPG 870 sealant. There are many sealants out there that are cheaper, but these two are corrosion inhibitive. Your maintenance manual has illustrations and instructions on how this is done. Tou will use 1428 to seal the fuel panels except for the one under the wing walk. On that one use 1422 so that it won't leak when you step on it. You will need a pneumatic sealant gun, tubes and various plastic tips to apply the sealant. Plastic spatulas and small brushes. If you buy sealant in the can instead of tubes it is cheaper. A couple of boxes of latex or rubber gloves. A six inch mirror to lay in the tank and be able to see the blind spots. There are areas that you cannot see on the inner section on top from the access holes. I also ordered new screws for the panels because the old ones had sealant on them, and I had to drill several out. Order stainless. Most of all you will need a lot of time and patience. Good luck. Mine is prepped; I am just waiting for a good uninterrupted weekend to reseal.

Fuel lube is like a thick sticky silicone. Fuel will not wash it off. I used it when I installed my drains, no problem. Do not use any other kind of anti-seize. Just a light coat on the threads and seal.

It attaches to the door.