Jsno

Near Indianapolis we have an alternator shop that might rewind it. Its called INDY Alternator and Starter. Phone number is 317-801-8551. Give them a call.

I got it in the mail yesterday and will mail it to FlyBoomer as he was next in line when I am finished. Has some interesting things in it. Probably a week or so.

Good info. This might explain why my gauge for the tank does not go all the way to full now.

I could not find those plastic grommets when I changed mine. I just held the gasket in place while i tightened it up. The outboard senders did not use them. Go figure.

I am interested in in. After I read it I will then in turn pass it on to another> I'll PM my address.

There are some used ones on eBay. They do not say strobe, just Recognition Light or ANTI Collision Light. But at least they will match.

Mine had slosh coat from a previous owner. MEK and a wire brush will work.

MC660166-007 CONTROL, Throttle EACH $593.08 $502.93

On the big aircraft, we use nylon mesh and RTV to repair seals. Works great.

Between having all of the parts sent to a machine shop for inspection and rework probably close to 15K. That does not include the labor of the A&P disassembly and reassembly of the engine. Unfortunately, the angle valve cylinders are way more expensive than the parallel valve cylinders. Just make sure that they install new exhaust valves. The Lycoming exhaust valves should never be reused. They work harden then crack. That could cause catastrophic engine failure. Be prepared for a long lead time. My case has been at DIVCO since mid December and I have been told two to three more weeks.

I can understand dmevens about the potential problem with your employer. It's not worth risking your job over. You may be in the right but if the folks above you disagree you lose.

Are you selling them?

I'm thinking of buying a set and possibly loaning them. Just trying to figure out how to make sure I get them back and not damaged.

Got a message from the guy making them. Some asshole sent him a text saying it was copyright infringement and could be sued. Always some POS trying to sound important.

I am overhauling my IO 360 right now. I could not find cylinder kits so I bought Nickel cylinder studs fro J&J. I then bought new pistons, springs and valves. I believe ti all came in under what a cylinder kit would cost by $100.00. I just have to install the valves. The seats were already cut. Be careful of low ballers. They will use used parts which are fine but never use used exhaust valves. The Lycoming work harden over time and become brittle, then fail. Definitely not worth the risk. Gibsons will use any new parts that you request. So I would definitely insist on new exhaust valves. This will add about 100 bucks to the price. Also I am a firm believer in Nickel cylinders.

The drawings are good but does anyone have the drawings to make the boards themselves?

I would just go with an overhaul rather than a factory reman. Here is from an article John Schwaner wrote about how factory new limits came about. Very interesting. Long story short, if it is overhauled per Lycoming Manual and S/B on required replacement parts it will last just as long as a factory new or remanufactured and save money. Just be careful of the low ballers. I disassembled mine with 1100 hrs due to sitting three years and found that the exhaust valved were reground. You could shave with them! Definitely a no-no. Factory New Limits and other Nonsense Pure nonsense! I can give you an example of how one engine manufacturer's cylinder barrel new limit is the same as maximum service limit. What... new limit=service limit! But there is a story behind this so here goes... Many years ago one of the engine manufacturer's had a problem with excessive cylinder barrel wear on a high-performance airplane model. There was a meeting of the user group for that airplane and there the factory rep assured all of the owners that they would take care of the problem under warranty. They would boroscope the cylinders and any cylinders that had excessive barrel wear (no cross-hatch left i.e. bore polished) would be removed and re-honed. Fair enough, but some of the owners were concerned that they were going to get back cylinders that were not to new limits and close to being worn out. The factory rep assured them that "any cylinder not in new limits would be replaced with new". More than fair. So everyone's happy and the factory rep goes to my shop and says "John, we want you to do all of the cylinder work on this warranty problem." OK, I say, "but if the barrel is already worn out and I hone it, it will be larger. I can't hone it smaller so I know they won't be within factory new limits." John, the factory rep says, you don't understand. You are going to hone it to factory new at +5 oversize. But Mr. factory rep, you don't have a +5 oversize. We do now! So here is how this works: Mininum new is 5.000 inches Maximum service limit is 5.005 Mininum new for 5 over is 5.005 Maximum service limit for 5 over is 5.010 So you see these cylinders were factory new but at +5 oversize, or were they service limit for standard size? Take your pick as they are both! Now it's not all that bad because maximum service limit is not a wear limit as such. It doesn't mean that the cylinder barrel will stop working at that size. It is a repair limit or the limit of size during repair in which the engine will perform satisfactory during its anticipated life. All things being equal we want it be as close to new size as possible but there is way too much emphasis by users on "new limits". Now that we're talking "new limits" or 'factory new limits" there is one more gotcha. We got into trouble above by not having a thorough understanding of new limit. Now we're in trouble because of imprecise thinking; marketeers in this industry take advantage of it (you). If you specify "Lycoming new limt" or "Continental new limit" we can all agree on what this limit is as it is published in their "Table of Limits". But when we say "factory new limits" then who's limits are these? You might incorrectly assume that it is Lycoming or Continental. There are shops that work to their own limits and to them "factory" refers to themselves.

Its in the IPC: Bushing Part Number is 914020-17, Bolt AN26-17, 2 each Washers AN960-616, Nut AN320-6, Cotter Pin AN320-3-3.

F is probably the old Army navy code for fiber, which was probably replaced my nylon. The B could be the manufacturer's code for coating. I would just see that they match what is coming out.

Disconnect the linkage to the gear door and you can rotate it enough to get a 90 degree screwdriver on the screws. You can get a ratcheting one at harbor freight.

you could get one from a salvage yard. If the holes don't line up you can fill them with a flush rivet and drill new ones. Your inboard seat track is riveted through this. It will be some work but it can be done.

Don't know the difference but Wick's aircraft carries the an366F

Also for got a couple of more things to check.. Look up under the panel on the pilot side and check the brake reservoir and parking brake assy for leaks. The can will leak at the seams and the brake actuator will leak around the seals. Pull the left hand forward belly panel and check the brake actuators for leaks. The seals go bad. Move the engine, prop and ram air controls. If they are stiff each cable runs around 500 for parts alone.

I like the extra room the F has. Your child will grow fast and you will appreciate the extra ten inches. Things to look for in the prebuy are: has the airplane been flown regularly, Check the Nose gear assy and steering horn for play. Check the pucks on the landing gears. There are 11 of them total, 4 each main and three on the nose. $100 each. The fuel cells can leak, 3K each for a total strip and reseal. You will see leaks when topped off or smell it in the cabin. Check the prop for leaking grease indicating blown seals. When you fly it hold down the PC switch and see if it flys straight. A lot of folks in the past could have messed with the rigging. Be sure to have it jacked and swing the gear. Check the doors for fit and fair. Pull the cabin side walls and have the tubing checked for corrosion. Have enough panels pulled to check the spar throughout. Check the spar in front of the back seat by pulling up the carpet. Many have corrosion there. Be sure to check the mags and shower of sparks. If the shower of sparks do not work the kickback will bend a rod. If the oil and fuel lines are not teflon, they should be changed every six years. Check the compass, many are junk. And it is very important to check for exhaust leaks, it will kill you. A well maintained and flown aircraft is a lot of fun. A "good deal" may not be so good.

I found mine the same way with two people in the front. It also was very tough to flare on landing. I have the engine part for overhaul now but when finished, I'm going to spend the bucks and get the travel boards and check the rig. After looking at mine it's obvious that someone has misrigged it.