A64Pilot

I’d say wash it, polish it as best you can and fly it. Once it gets 50 hours on it in six months or less, then that not having flown in a long time stigma pretty much goes away. Even 30 or e0 hours in the next 30 days may be enough. It is in Annual isn’t it? ‘I think you could put $30,000 in avionics and get $10,000 more for it. I have never seen anyone get their money back from avionics, or paint or a new engine. Of course they all add value, just you don’t get it all back much less make money. However really working to polish what’s left of the paint, detailing the interior all costs noting and yet I think will increase sales price, that an 50 hours in a few months does too. Makes it look well cared for. Oh, and put it in a hanger, don’t have the prospective buyer drive up and it be tied down outside. The icing thing you need to find the right buyer, I woudn’t give you a nickel for it, but I don’t live in ice country either EVERYTHING is selling, of course it won’t last, have you been watching used car prices? Everything is a sellers market now, houses, RV’s boats you name it, now is the time to sell, not buy. A year from now may be the time to buy, people who think it won’t end or fooling themselves, remember 08? I’d price it at about 125K myself and take what I could

I learned from the 210 and it’s goofy slow gear to not retract until I was at a point to where landing on the remaining runway wasn’t possible, I don’t mean fully stopped either. ‘So I have carried that over to the Mooney, there just isn’t any good reason that I can see to get the gear at first indication of positive rate, maybe that’s taught with the theory that everyone eventually ends up in a twin?

If you can get the ABS glue to work for you it may be better if the panels are ABS. Place I worked at we vacuumed formed Royalite to make plastic parts. I’m not sure what Royalite is but it’s a lot like our panels. We used glue to attach different pieces together to make apart at times and it wasn’t epoxy. ‘For those that want to use epoxy if they are having a problem with it popping loose from being too hard, they need to use the G-flex or other flexible epoxy. ‘For any Epoxy use West Systems is a high grade often used in boat building and repair.

Mine doesn’t quite turn 27 either and access to the prop governor has me living with the lower RPM. You may want to consider validating your tach before setting RPM to it.

I would never had thought that. So with all that moving around there was no wear?

OK, I’ll look for screws, I’m sure they don’t go into the spar. Spar is what I’m wanting to access. ‘I can’t figure out why the spar is there, it should be approx 25% to33% of the chord line, but it will make sense I think when I see it.

While the store 5 min epoxies may be fine, I’ve found West Systems Epoxy to be a better quality adhesive, for something like this which may be best repaired by wetting out a strip of fiberglass tape and applying it and covering with epoxy resin, this product I’ve found hard to beat. it’s self mixing and applied from a standard caulk gun, buy several nozzles as they are only good for one use, but it can be used without a nozzle just mixed after it’s dispensed, being a thickened product it won’t run as bad as most epoxies, but if needed it can be worked into a thinner consistency, like for wetting out for instance. Buy some acetone to clean for prep and I use isopropanol alcohol to clean up. but have heard vinegar works, but I haven’t tried it. https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive/ Oh, and wet the cloth out on wax paper of course and take a sharpie and make a mark across the plug and tube of the six ten, that way you can reinstall it the same way and won’t put the resin side on the hardener having it possibly glue itself in. Although if the panel flexes a lot, maybe West systems G-flex may be better https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

Yes it’s a bench, it’s removing the carpet that has me stumped. it’s removal isn’t readily apparent and it’s original and actually in good shape but of course the thread is 41 years old so I haven’t applied any force, it is held on by velcro? Is the seat part of the aircraft structure?

You may choose to remove the panel and effect the repair to the backside, and sometimes reinforcing it with some fiberglass cloth tape isn’t a bad idea.

it depends on the entry airspeed, if you can lose airspeed because your carrying a little extra then a less aggressive pitch change is required. It goes against basic instinct when someone is trying to not hit the ground to push the nose over, but it’s airspeed you need so you have to. ‘I think someone who has some crop duster experience has a advantage here, every turn in a crop duster is actually right at stall. They can stall at 50 mph with an empty hopper. but fill the hopper up and you can easily double the aircraft weight, but you don’t have to meet stall speeds because the hopper can be quickly jettisoned, so many crop dusters when loaded have a higher stall speed then any other single engine aircraft, yet they operate low and relatively slow, and they learn energy management pretty well. The S2R-H80 level stall speed at max gross was 94 mph flaps up. 88 flaps down, so image what it is at a 60 angle of bank.

You need to go out and do an autorotation with turn in a helicopter, even the Huey that autorotates like a dream, it was as you describe

A lot depends on your climb airspeed, Seems everyone around where I live hangs it on the prop for a steep climb angle, while that gives them the most altitude in the shortest distance, it does not give best rate climb, and if they have an engine quit, they have to immediately nose over or they will be mushing if not in an actual stall. In my opinion it’s unsafe unless obstacles require it, and if they do, then your in the dead mans curve, just hope nothing happens. ‘So in my opinion someone who cruise climbs, say about 110k indicated in a J model and likely even faster in one of the big motor airplanes, has a lot better chance of pulling off the impossible turn. ‘It’s all energy management, speed and altitude are interchangeable, but I’d rather have a little extra speed than altitude because it’s human nature if the engine quits to hold attitude for a few seconds, and then your mushing if you were climbing at Vx. It’s like a stall. if it’s truly a surprise, every pilot will initially try to raise the dropped wing with aileron, which of course is not what you want to do, it’s just muscle memory. ‘But given our better glide ratio, we have a much better chance of pulling it off, in my opinion, this is one of the times you’ll be loving that tendency to float on final I believe once I get to 500’ at 110 kts I can make it, less than that maybe best to find a spot pretty much straight ahead without trees or between the biggest ones. This is a maneuver once comititted you must make, so give yourself some extra fudge, and don’t forget it’s a downwind turn too, so you need extra speed when that head wind becomes a tailwind. Go out and practice it in the pattern, with plenty of altitude and watch for a stall in the turn, decide your own critical altitude, but leave some extra for time to figure out and accept that the thing has quit Just watched the video, first a Bo drops like a rock, I’ve followed them and unless I’m way lower I can’t make the approach with them. ‘I’m also not recommending maintaining 110 kts, but if the engine quits unexpectedly. I bet lunch you won’t be at 110 kts when you accept it. ‘Good video, I expected the RV suffered some from the Hersey bar wind too though. On edit I disagree with the video, you don’t have to make two additional turns to line up on the runway, your successful in my opinion if you make the airfield. nice open fields with not much to hit. One thing that stuck with me from Military training was always crash inside of the fence, the fire trucks and ambulance can get straight to you, outside of the fence, maybe not.

Stupid question as I didn’t find it in the manual. but I know it’s there, so how is the back seat removed? For inspection purposes.

If it truly only outputs 24V, you are correct it will not fully charge a 24V battery, even a float / maintainer should output roughly 26.6 V or so. On edit, you are just more observant than most, most have no idea what voltage there chargers produce

OK, many don’t understand and it’s an almost universal misunderstanding among pilots.Even the FAA examiner on my Commercial ride didn’t understand. ‘We have either a 14or a 28 volt system, but we have either a 12V or a 24V battery. ‘think of electricity like water, you have to have water at a higher level in order to get it to flow to another container. So you have to have a higher voltage to get electricity to flow to a battery to charge it, the higher the voltage if amps are unlimited, the faster the battery will charge, but too high a voltage and it will damage a battery, To charge a 12V battery most often a voltage of about 14.3 is about ideal. but battery construction may change it slightly, an Odyssey battery I believe wants 15 V or so. ‘So why do we fly around at 14V? The reason is 14V is a good compromise, it will charge a battery but more slowly than 14.3, but 14 isn’t high enough to really overcharge and damage a battery, so a simple “dumb” voltage regulator set at 14V is good enough, “smart” regulators do exist and their voltage set points are usually adjustable, they will charge at a higher voltage, then cut back to a lower “float or maintainer” voltage once the battery is charged. A Battery minder does this, it charges at roughly 14.3V until either the current draw drops to a small amount indicating the battery is fully charged and the drops to 13.3V to maintain charge, if you left a battery at 14V permanently t would ruin the battery over time by drying it out, even an AGM. A fully charged battery at rest is just under 13V, and it’s considered “dead” at 10.5V Double the above voltage numbers for a 28V system that has a 24V battery, that as you said shows 26V when fully charged. ‘People never used to worry about this stuff with just old factory instruments,but now we display things to .1 digits, they notice things are different than what they we’re always told. If the Spruce charger is any good, I assure you it outputs slightly over 28V, it’s labeled a 24V charger in an attempt to not confuse people. Call it a 28V charger and lots of people would think they can’t use it because their battery is only 24V.

If using a 10 amp battery charger, I would not hook it to the external power plug myself. I’d hook it directly to the battery and use the battery to power my airplane and the charger to keep the battery charged, just as the alternator does inflight. ‘Very often anything but a high dollar power supply doesn’t really produce DC current, it’s AC rectified to pulsating DC, and the battery functions as a huge capacitor and provides DC current. An alternator for example is not a source of DC current, it produces AC current that is rectified to pulsating DC through a diode bank, the battery functions as the big ole capacitor and provides DC current. ‘Then as was stated an RG-35AXC for example is a 33 AH battery, meaning it will supply 10 amps for 3.3 hours before being discharged fully, fully discharged is often 10.5 V. So if you pull 10 amps. I’d be comfortable running the airplane for an hour or so, but recharge the battery as soon as your finished, but if you pull 10 amps and the charger can provide 10 amps, then with the charger hooked up, you can run it forever.

What I believe your failing to understand is the the amp setting is not what the battery will accept, it’s the max output of the charger setting. Try this, connect it to a fully charged battery. set it to 50, it won’t supply 50 because the battery won’t accept 50 because it’s fully charged, it wouldn’t accept even 10 after a few minutes

No, I don’t believe so, I believe what he was saying was that charger can only provide 50 amps for 5 sec, then it will overheat and turn off. the 50 amps setting is meant to get a low charge battery to start an engine.

Max amps is irrelevant, so long as voltage is correct the system will only draw what it can use. You can’t have too big of a charger, if it’s voltage is correct. voltage is the “pressure” that pushes current into a battery. too high a voltage will overcharge a battery, even at low amperage over time. Look at it this way, you have say a 70 amp alternator, but don’t use anywhere near 70 amps and can fly around forever and not overcharge the battery, that’s because the voltage is kept down to 14ish volts. If you had a 200 amp alternator it still won’t overcharge. ‘So a 125 amp battery charger will start out at high amps if a battery is low in charge, then as a battery charges the amps will decrease until a very low amperage when at full charge. ‘If your asking about that charger, 10 amps is it’s max continuous output. Your usage made exceed 10 amps, but that’s not a big deal as the battery will supply what’s needed over the 10, it will discharge of course, so charge it after your done. ‘I assume your charger does not automatically turn off, it has a timer off the picture, if so I’d charge the battery until the amp meter falls to about 1 amp then stop.

Partial panel in an airplane isn’t that hard, practice it until you become comfortable with it. ‘My Father trained for IFR flight with something I haven’t seen since then, you put red plastic on the windows and wore red sunglasses, they both were polarized so that when you had the glasses on, you couldn’t see out at all. US army completely covered the windows and chin bubble of the Huey’s on the right side for instrument training. PIC seat on a helicopter is the right seat. Foggles are cheap and easy, but you really don’t get the full experience. Of course some will argue ‘I wonder why the polarized plastic sheets aren’t still used?

Other sensors, the Mini-Sa for example the sensor itself has a calendar life limit, it simply ages out. As I used them for Production test flights the Mini-SA’s had to be calibrated every 90 days so we had two, and the sensor itself was replaced every so often as well. A normal house type CO sensor will usually alarm or start chirping etc when they hit the end of life, and you throw them away of course, not worth replacing a sensor and some even have lithium batteries that cannot be changed as the battery will live as long or longer than the sensor. They are all life limited though, but depending on type some can have a pretty long life. but I believe 2-5 years is common https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_detector

With everything together and the cylinder at TDC compression, is one of the rockers arms loose, have excess play indicating a collapsed lifter? How many hours on this engine, when did it start making this noise? Did it start quieter and been getting louder? If you can’t find anything, I’d pull the cylinder. look at the wrist pin etc. I’d have to find the source of that noise, I wouldn’t fly it until I did.

Head sets didn’t even become a thing until the 80’s and even then you had to have a portable intercom. I had one that used 9V batteries and mine was deluxe in that there was a separate box for the two in the back seat with a telephone wire that connected the two boxes. I don’t know when intercoms began being built into comm panels, I didn’t get my first one until I guess 03? ‘I had this big leather “flight bag” to carry all that stuff. The whole time growing up though no one had a head set and us kids learned real fast to shut up anytime the radio came on, and to tap Daddy’s shoulder if we heard our tail number. ‘I spent a lot of my early years in the back seat of a 182 and 210 and have never suffered any hearing loss

If you don’t have mountain experience, stay out of box canyons, and be darn sure your in the correct canyon if your flying through one, next canyon over is a box right around a corner and you don’t want to be there. A good big GPS with terrain maps is really a necessity and a God’s send ‘If possible fly above all of the hard stuff, and become familiar with mountain waves, and if you get into one ignore altitude if it’s carrying you up, ride it up higher, because right after the up elevator ride is the down one and you may not have enough power to keep from descending. Do some reading learn to avoid things like that cloud at the peak of the mountain that seems to be just sitting there, and be real wary of the lee side of a mountain,lots of things you can learn about by reading

Can you calibrate these things,or just function check them?