AerostarDriver

If I had the budget the MT is a pretty nice prop but I think the Top Prop is about 11K new. I think speed gains will depend on the airplane. My E with the top prop trues out at 157 to 162 knots regularly with only the only two mods being the lasar cowl closure and oil cooler relocation. Before the Top Prop 155 was about all she had.

It is a reduction in takeoff performance by 3%, however, on my E model it is an increase in cruse TAS by about 6 knots. Your mileage may vary. The top prop is about 10 pounds heavier then the prop you would be replacing so just kept that in mind.

About a year ago a IO-360-A2B (I was getting a quote for an Arrow 200) was about 26.5K from pennyan, my A&P IA quoted 12 hours from start to finish to do the swap. 6 to pull the engine off and 6 to put it back on. Plus about 1K for consumables (engine mounts, hoses, new wires if needed) and 300 for a dynamic balance. All in I was looking at 28,940 from start to finish. You might not get as good of a deal but 46K is not realistic.

Between 12 and 18 months ago I saw a solicitation for recertification and testing of trident missiles out of the Eglin range. Maybe it is that.

Well they had the airplane for 8 months. I have some very choice words in regards to the condition to how my airplane was returned to me.

Don Maxwell replaced it with an airspeed switch with the mooney retrofit kit. I should have included that.

So would it would be acceptable to remove effectively all of the components circled in red? At this point I am trying to understand why it was left like this from Don Maxwell shop.

I am on the home stretch of finishing my first annual on my 71 E and something is just not making since when looking at the pilot side main gear. The gear trust has a number of loose or partly attached components. Attached are pictures (which are not my best work) which show the area in question on both the pilot and co-pilot side. My theory is that this was part of the weight on wheels switch that the airplane originally had before an MSC replaced it with an airspeed switch in November as part of the wing replacement my airplane had. I am looking for pictures of an example and/or advice on what I can remove, what has to stay and how to secure what has to stay.

Taking a step back from macroeconomics, it depends on what your looking for. Moonies, Arrows, and commanches to a lesser extent are seeing unpresented demand with very few hang around on the market for more then a few days. However, I have a friend who just picked up a Maule M4 Rocket for 11K. My grandfather-in-law bought a 172D for 6K with mid-time motor. A better way to put it is, if you need a plane on a budget, their are deals to be had. If you want something particular, anything with a Lycoming 360 and retracts, Warriors, late model 172s, RVs with certified engines and glass panels, your in a sellers market.

I assume the 930 is something you already have as an existing unit. I would be inclined to suggest a GI-275 EIS and then use an Ipad as a large MFD that also displays engine data. At least this is my plan to replace my JPI 700. If you already have a 930 then disregard.

I would approach the question this way. What is your mission? what is your budget? What is your long term plan for the plane? What are your expectations? If you want to go complete glass their are a number of ways to accomplish that. For about 16K plus IFR navigator you can do it with Garmin GI-275s and cut your panel down to 3x instruments. For a little more you could explorer a single panel dynon or G3X, a little more and you can have a two panel dynon or G3X and for about 50K you can have Garmin G500TXI displays. In my E I went dual G5s, a GI-275 MFD and left my old GNS-480 in its place, with Ebay and few promotions I went "glass" for under 10K installed, but it meets my mission and sets me up for a GFC-500 autopilot.

I mounted my GAD 13 on the rack in the back and put the Davtron CP307S on the inspection panel shown with the red X. I have my GMU 11, Gad 29B and GAD13 all mounted in the tail so putting it their made the most sense. Also the location is in lighting zone 2A per the STC.

I just discovered my alternator breaker was split in half. If I pressed on the right side panel would cause everything to shut off. It was about 50 bucks to replace.

Thanks for catching that.

You need a J spinner but you need the right compatibility of lengths. My understanding is the stock 2 blade that came on the E and F models will not work with the longer cowl of the J. If you have an after market 3 blade or retrofit 2 blade or the 2 blade from a J (if you have the correct engine for it) you will likely be fine assuming you have the backplate and spinner for a J. The previous owner of my plane found it easier to order the Top prop for the J rather then continue to do the 100 hour eddy current inspections.

Keep in mind to do the 201 conversion you need the following: Oil cooler relocation kit (STC) 201 prop or Top prop with 201 Spinner and back plate. (STC/337) 201 Windscreen (optional for 201 cowl/required for Lopresti cowl) (STC) 201 Cowl and cowl flaps(337) or Lopresti cowl(337) 201 airfilter (STC/337) 201 Baffle kit and air intake I would also recommend doing the conversion in that order because it can be done almost one item at a time. My airplane is has the first two installed and I own 95% of the parts to complete the conversion.

Personally, if I were doing this, I would go out their see the airplane and pull it apart. Right now without labor your required cost are as follows: Airframe: 19,900 Engine Overhaul: 29,000 (Was the last price I saw for a Penn Yan IO-360-A1A) Prop: ~8,000-10,000 (Timed out and damaged) Current Cost: 56,900 Lets just say you have corrosion in the wing on the rear stub spar or main spar, that is roughly about 14k. Lets say you have a bad steel tube your at about 8-15K I am not trying to discourage you, in fact I did something similar with my E but costs can very quickly eclipse a very nice F or even J model.

@MinivationWere you ever able to flight check your repair. I have two of these which nether work as expected.

It now appears that if you enter the promo code "mooney" you can get 100 dollars off the trade-in price.

1. Columbia 400/TTx 2. RV-10 3. DA-50RG

Technically speaking, their is no reason why an IFD-440 would not work with an GI-275... However, an IFD-440 is not listed as an approved source for position or navigation data. All the GI-275 needs is a Analog or ARINC source for nav data and an RS-232/MAPMX line.

I had the opportunity to fly an SR22T a number of years ago. The Cirrus was very comfortable but I was never able to get over the side stick that it uses. I strongly prefer the side stick in the Columbia/Corvallis from a pilots perspective, but it depends on how you use the airplane.

At $21,250 your pretty close to dual G5s+GPS 175+GFC500 setup. It is my understanding that ballpark price installed is about 23K to 26K.

Garmin GAD 29B Data Converter | eBay That will save you about 100 bucks.

I unfortunately need to remove and replace my Stall Switch... I am looking at the inspection panel and the control rod between the hole and the Stall Switch, I am at a total loss for how to even access it. I am open to any ideas or suggestions as to how remove and replace. I also am open to any ideas that would allow me to fix it in place but it does not appear that is possible. The failure I am having is that I can hear the micro switch make contact but the electrical contact is intermittent, I already went through the rest of the warning system and replaced the horn, the old one was working fine but was not the correct part number.