SSimpson77

Those are great! Let me know cost and I’ll grab a set. For anyone who thinks .020” of an inch is a lot, think about that as a radius. I’m guessing that had a radii of 8”... that comes roughly to 1°=.139” and divide that by .020....you get .14° variation! I’m sure most our eyes can’t see that. Seems to also fit well within the tolerance specs of manual additionally you have free play limits that is less than.

No I’m not talking about the Gurney flap. The gurney flap was designed by Dan gurney back in the 70’s to increase performance of downforce wings at high angles of attack. Typically gurney flaps are .0875” to .250” strips of aluminum that are slid in at trailing edge of wing. Sometimes called wicker bills. We were running gurney flaps back on formula Atlantic’s and Formula fords back in the mid 80’s.

Back in 1994, Penske racing developed the ilmor/Mercedes racing engine that won the Indy 500. There was so much power, it was actually spinning the tires on the rims! But back to the story... in order to “fool” the competition, they installed a fin behind the rear engine cowling. When Al Unser and Paul Tracy went out and set quick time after quick time, the competition all went out and had their cowlings to match the Penske. I don’t know why I told this story...maybe because I think it’s hilarious, or because I think open wheel racing is the best sport in America, but maybe it’s because they’re is so much more to performance than oil additives or DLC coatings, or time between runnings. Consistency in maintenance and performance are what I think is the key to TBO or at least recognizing it’s not going to make TBO. Every engine, propeller, airframe , everything are all exposed to different conditions and therefore as the saying goes...your mileage may vary. By the way, if you want to read the book, it’s called “The Beast” pretty awesome story of Paul Morgan using his P-51 mustang to ferry parts from design to manufacturing to testing to stay on the deadline. PSS. I believe in the snake oil too, I think that’s where this hijack all started from.

I don’t know, looks pretty clean to me. Depends on how much you want to spend like everyone else says, but I would opt for some nice headrests. All that power coming from a 140 could give you whiplash!! congrats though, as always, fly safe!!!

Well if the price has been set...I’ll give you $4,100

Pushrod oil tubes might look okay but under temp and vibration could be leaking a bit. Definitely not the spark plug washer idea. While your checking that pushrod tube again, check out engine breather hose. Think of all the pressure created inside cases, and if it’s slightly constricted, you might get oil blow by(into cylinders =fouled Up combustion chambers) and failed seals. The breather hose on mine was squashed to about 1/2 it’s diameter (5/8” is stock I recall) because of heat and the bend it goes through.

Yikes, wow. That gear looks pretty bad and scary to read it only had 100 hrs... perhaps wasn’t changed at overhaul. I’ll snap a pic of the cracked rear plastic when I pickup the plane this week. I practice those drills quite often, especially after watching the Dan Grydner(sic) videos. I’ve even put a thin piece of tape on ASI at 90 for my minimum speed at all times...except short final of course. I have three hard fast rules... never drop below 90mph, never fly in remotely in-climate weather ( my minimums are quite high) and never take off without less than 1.5 hours of fuel remaining after landing. I know that puts a lot of restrictions that doesn’t let me take full advantage of a Mooney, but by my accounts you remove about 80% of accidents that way and can always fly another time when conditions allow.

Just got my JPI900 in and fuel lines made up. Looking forward to the install here soon. Yes, sorry champion aerospace. Thanks Don for sharing the link

Hey everyone, thought I’d share my first engine malfunction during flight. While it wasn’t catastrophic, I feel It was a good lesson for me and maybe one of the newbie’s like me out there will learn. Took off from APV after normal run up and everything looked great. While climbing out on downwind, felt a little “cough” and shake. Sometimes get this once hitting 5,000’ due to rich mixture, so leaned out a bit. Still had a slight spitter and noticed rpm slightly bounce from 2550 to 2500. (Prop governor?) realized I’ll stay out of airport within glide distance and troubleshoot. Gauges in green, didn’t want to panic but also wanted to be prepared if when I do my mag check and it stops, I’d know what steps to take to fire it up (lean out, back to good mag, and enriched fuel so I don’t get backfire) went to R mag and falls on face a bit. Copy, bad mag/wire/spark plug. land safely, and try run up again this time he won’t idle much past 500 rpm. Checked plugs, okay but put in spares just in case...no joy. Next day I have local A&P pull mag, and found a broken distributor gear conductor. Spruce had them in stock and while going down to get one, I find they are part of a recall from champion. Here’s the link to bulletin if anyone is interested. My mags have 300 hrs and we’re new in 2015. Sure glad to have two mags! SB1-15A_20181112.pdf

I’m in the middle of stripping my sons dirt bike for paint and I noticed the can of “Aircraft stripper” actually says not to be used on aircraft. Got looking online of some cool videos of large companies stripping A380’s and 737’s and stumbled across this product... https://webbertekllc.com/dragon-fire-example-post-2-2-2-2 Looking at information,it is approved through Boeing for aluminum except 7075 clad and magnesium. But it also softens/removes B1/2 sealant. Could be great for those tank re-seals. Anyone heard of this or try it out. Steven

I’ll go give that another try. I think I normally connect via WiFi, not Bluetooth and when I do it says it’s talking fine to my phone. Something is fishy. I think I’ll go through all my wires and clean up all grounds. From what I read, the tailbeacon “hears” the squawk code through small voltage fluctuations. Maybe if I don’t have really good grounds it is somewhat muffling the sound to the tailbeacon.

Had mine installed last year while plane was getting annual’d by previous owner. Took A&P/IA 3 hours (not joking) because he couldn’t get the light to rotate and lock in. Turns out, the base plate was not countersunk enough and countersunk screws that were provided stuck up about .005”. Enough to not let unit spin and lock in position. I haven’t been able to get unit to see my squawk code like the beacon app says, even changing thresholds. Now my battle is it is sending wrong code to ATC and had to disable otherwise I show a transponder code of xxxx and an ads-b code of yyyy. Only help I get from uavionix is adjust my threshold. Transponder is good, just had the 91.413 completed two weeks ago. maybe I’ve got old stuff, kt-76c, new RAMI av74 antenna, checked connections and wire and continuity is good. YMMV Steve

If downloads doesn’t work I can email them to you but @Skates97has the good link. Like Cliffy said also, the newer IPC and MM are much more in depth and should cover your model. Just read the beginning to make sure your serial number is in it, my 65C was.

Thought I’d share this update to those of you looking for the LED beacon update with above Whelen light. Looking at previous offers and sales of these lights they were titled as FAA/Pma/ STC for the Mooneys. I asked the rep for the AML and when he forwarded me it, the Mooney is definitely not on there. I think he was shocked No biggie, did a 337 with my IA during annual. He’s pretty straight forward to protect his butt and mine so I like that he did the 337. It is super bright and can’t even hear it now that it’s on!!! Winning

Permatex #3 is brown and if not installed correctly stays a bit sticky. I was able to grab some at local auto parts store. Aka- Napa, autozone, oreilly, car quest. Make sure you let it become tacky before installing, it needs that air time to set off reaction I believe. Good luck

Smart move @Gubni. as for insurance, I called all around. I’m 43 yo, no violations or issues, 200 hrs in make and model, 300 total, ppl, wiings credits, hangared and 50,000 hull and 500,000 liability...$1580 a year. Avemco was $1800 but with instrument came down to $1650.

I think @N201MKTurbo has a possibility there. If it was blue it has the wicking and drip rate as if it were 100LL. When it heats up, pyrolysis turns it black. Clean it really well and do some ground runs. Maybe put a GOPro mounted near drip and record while doing run-up

Very nice C! I’m sure you have already downloaded all the IPC manuals and different checkout sheets in the downloaded section. Remember safety safety safety! It’s such a reliable plane it can be easy to get complacent. Steve

Oil leaks are tricky. Hopefully it’s an easy one and the suggestions above should spot it pretty quick. If it doesn’t, then I imagine the seller doesn’t want to spend much time and money diagnosing the multitude of things it could be. Here’s my order of inspection: oil filter and hoses- tight and not chaffing oil cooler-should be dry as a whistle. crankcase seal and oil governor line. prop governor oil dip stick o-ring area-sometimes these are tightened down way to tight and eventually leak. Check the oil drain lines from valve covers to block. All mine were loose on pre-purchase. Even had the previous owner have crank seal replaced 2 times thinking it was that and I replaced it once. Crazy thing about older guppy mouth mooneys, the plenum pressures could cause oil to go forward in engine compartment and out front not down and out. Please keep us posted to help the next person!

Always enjoy reading about your excitement Don! You sound like a teenager again and always positive. I just had mi AI replaced with G5 by My AP/IA here in Grants pass. Wish I could’ve done it but we are moving to Cedar City and the moving trucks are here. Think I’ll tackle the HSI with him next time. The G5 PFD is amazing, so glad I went that route over AV-30c. Especially for instrument training. Cuts down on a couple spokes on my scan.

I hope this plane is worth every bit of $52k and then some and both seller and buyer feel good about transaction. Beauty and deal is in the eye of the beholder, some of us just happen to see monetary value in every part bolted to the plane and its depreciation rate. My tanks haven’t been sealed since 1992! I’m sure someone was trying to tell the previous owner back in 1999 ,”boy, them tanks are 7 years old, gonna have to kick that down about $4,000 because they might leak tomorrow”(circa1999) What are you hoping to save, $3k maybe $7k tops. I know I’ve lost that and gained that in a few months of our crazy market we’re in. If she flies good, you got the money, and the support, I’d go for it. I only regret the things I haven’t done!

Great looking C! I agree, you’re paying half price for those avionics! Make sure to ask for a SB-208 inspection, tubular frame inspection. The great thing is buying a runout engine you aren’t as stressed about cam issues and lifters. Just make sure she makes rated power if you plan on trying to get a few years out of her/him, that’s what’s most important in an engine. Fuel Tank sealant? All paperwork with the STC’s? Logs? Corrosion in wheel wells? I can tell you who not to use for a PPI but if you grab someone from Arizona, you’ll be okay. Best of luck! Great plane and great group of Mooniacs here

Sheriff23, check with Costaero about what kind of deal they can get you on the 900. Seems like everyone is pretty competitive with prices right now, within $100 dollars of each, but every time I've called Chris or messaged him, I've gotten a response within a few minutes. I was undecided on what to get in my C next, (355, 430, 830, AV-30C, 327...) but figured engine monitor will pay off first, both in safety and possibly fuel saved (I'm really hoping my carburetor induction system is tuned like a dragster! even flows!) Also I figured I might make $1000 back from old gauges possibly. Anyways, good luck. Was told build time will be about 8 weeks once order is placed.

Igor, if you don’t mind me asking, which pull breakers did you go with? I have the trip type and soon to be doing a panel upgrade starting off with 900 and figure I’ll start my planning and layout design.

Every time I see the term “I’m an engineer” I laugh and think of this: https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1999-oct-01-mn-17288-story.html I can say that joke because I was once an engineer, but in my line of work an engineer just drives. I bet that drives some of you crazy...