SSimpson77

Thank you! I hate to move on, but kids are getting better at racing than I am at flying, so best bet is put my money in them while I have a chance.

FSBO- 1965 Mooney m20C TTAF- 3505 TSMOH-417 Prop- 480 SInce new Purchased this plane from New Mexico 3 years ago… great plane! Used it for commuting from Oregon to so-cal now it’s hangared in Cedar City. Overhaul done by Signature back in 2015. Complete log books since built in 65 Annual till 4/2023 Burns .5 qts in 40 hours (yes… 1/2 quart) no metal in filter. Compressions we’re high 70’s at last annual Older Apollo sl60 gps/comm (enroute and term approved) non-waas Michel MXC170 nav/comm 2 ADS-B uavionix tail light Whelen LED belly light Garmin G5 AI I have the JPI 900 in the box with new fuel lines… just need a avionics shop to open up space. Replaced engine mount 4/2022 -no further AD Top prop conversion- B type hub Had SB208B (corrosion inspection) done in 4/2020 Please pm me for details. Asking $62,500 hours will go up approx 10 hrs a month… that’s what I put on it. Never was a coastal plane, hangared in Ohio, New Mexico, southern oregon, and now southern utah.

I just did mine about 6 months ago… if I recall, you have to manipulate the clamp so it has a slight radius, like the area where the bolt goes through. I tried going high but I have a lot of insulation from previous owner. That L bracket aluminum does get unscrewed, it should give you enough room to shimmy it through. I cheated and just put a slot cut next to bolt hole so I can take off window trim easy.

I don’t think drilling the jack rams is gonna work to well. Once that ram extends past the top ram seal, you’ll have a bit of mess on your hands. An axle collar could work but risk damaging the shaft. I would find the length needed and cut down abs or pvc to that size, slot it to slide around shaft and clamp with hose clamps. I tried this to a backhoe ram and even with fluid released, the ram said not compress…remember compression is the key, not shear.

I’ve got the hoist and feel comfortable doing it. Back in Oregon, under eye of a&p, I did crankseal, prop seal, tank repair, 100 hr inspection, Avionics, tires, brakes… felt comfortable on it all. I’m looking for that right mechanic. I’m pretty sure I’m concerned more about what goes on my plane and maintenance than anyone else. Probably why I inspected the mount before anyone else does

Good day everyone. Well eventually the engine mount AD caught up to me and I found a crack below the co-pilot lower mount. I wish I didn’t look for it before I called my mechanic and told him of it, but now I’m grounded. I’m actually glad to have found it because I have been wanting to replace with gusseted mount and have piece of mind of stronger mount and no more recurring AD. Why the PO didn’t upgrade when engine was done in 2015 is beyond me. My dilemma… my local shop is backed up till summer and the A&P works a lot of overtime instructing and is already forced to hold over at the shop. I already purchased a used mount, cleaned it to bare metal, inspected all welds and tubes and awaiting formal inspection by a AP/IA before paint. Obviously can’t fly it to my awesome IA up in Oregon so looking for a “mobile mechanic”. Do these exist? I can assist with pull and have all tools at hangar if need be. Thanks for the thoughts!

Just a thought but would the little “tire patch seals” work for small pinhole leaks? Thin, pliable, and adhere well to rubber tire tubes. Find them at big shopping stores in the bike tires section.

Those “pops” you hear are usually a sign of intake leak. Sometimes also referred to as “lean pop”. But sounds like you got that taken care of. Making specialty tools is part of the fun of working in a Mooney if you ask me.

And they left you with a big “ sorry for your trouble, here’s a refund check” right haha

Does Garmin send a investigation team out or get with you and see what happened? Did you have to file any paperwork with FAA when something like that happens? Just curious, I would hope your incident helps all users in the future.

I respect that for sure. That’s your stovepipe! Really hurts to spend so much on equipment and it fails.

I guess it’s a personal choice. You don’t “need” diversity backup. It’s nice, but I only have a lot of one thing on my plane… one Johnson bar, one oil pump, one engine, two propellers but those come in pairs. With the MTBF of 13,000 hours for G5 ahrs and separate hsi/ai I figure I’m pretty comfortable flying behind that. But everyone decides what’s more important to themselves. If you have a plan for any kind of emergency, you are better off than relying on redundancy. My plan for AI failure(which has happened with gyro AI, but luckily while VMC) is not immediately switch DG to attitude indicator, but to cross check and utilize performance instruments to confirm…alt,airspeed,Vsi, TC. Off story- I own some guns and one day while at range one of my handguns “stovepiped” the casing. It was probably my fault, but I will never grab that gun if my life depended on it, even though I’ve sent some 1,000’s of rounds through it. Because that gyro AI went tumbling on me… I don’t trust it but again that’s just me. And no, it’s not for sale but the AI is.

I’m wondering too about the 2800 rpm? I had issues with my vacuum AI, went with G5 and never worry about it again.

Sent you my contact info for a guide if you will please. I know this is a resurrected thread but must have just became a member when it was already out Steve

As always you guys come through awesome! Thank you all.

Sorry for the weird title but my question is this… Does the engine normally receive engine compartment air (unfiltered) when carb heat is off? Seems a bit weird to bring in hot unfiltered engine air while flying normally but that’s the way my carb heat/box works. Could this have been something a previous mechanic/owner did. (The picture is with carb heat off and intake door open to receive filtered air from front, when I pull heat out, the box flap closes and the butterfly inside tube you see closes) TIA

That’s a great price and job. Is that for both sides? I presume since you said 52 gallons it is. At that rate I think they will have more than enough work for years to come. Did they mention what stripping process they used? Steve

See original post for answer

Haven’t done the Jpi yet, still factory gauges

Thank you all for the advice, I will check on that tomorrow. Ceis senders also with the JPI so I can’t wait! I was hoping to do it during some cold IMC time here in Utah, but alas it might come earlier! stay safe everyone steve

I thought that too, but my system runs an oil line from engine to back of gauge. So it’s a direct connect with bourdon tube. Thanks @ArtVandelay

I’ve checked the historical files and nothing matches my oil pressure gauge issues I’m having. Had the plane for 1.5 years now, over 280hrs since then and a total of 370 tsmoh. Regular oil changes, some at 25 hrs, some at 33 hrs and some at 50hrs. Switched to aero shell 100+ back in April. It does seem to have started since I went to shell oil, but I ran shell oil last summer and no issues . Nothing in filters since owned it. Oil pressure needle will bounce quickly from 55-80 on start up, then settled down after 25 or so seconds. Run up and flight I have 70-75 psi, but the needle does this fluctuation issue. Once hot, and after a x-country flight, I see 55 at idle but when given rpm, stays up above 70. Air in line? Gauge going bad (I wouldn’t think so because it calms down after a while)? Pressure regulator ball dirty/bad spring/seat is going bad? TIA PS-I’ve got the JPI900 in a box ready to go, just waiting on slot with mechanic. solved-9/1/2021- on advice from others, removed oil line and found it full of oil. Guess there’s supposed to be air in there to act as cushion. Cleaned out good, retightened, Mechanic checked out my work, ground run…all good! Smooth and stable. I think it all started when my original mechanic taught me to spin the prop by hand when I have the plugs out and doing a spark plug rotation while I’m doing my oil change. It does help prime the oil pump and systems, but the low pressure created can creep oil into the gauge. Thank you all IMG_8047.MOV

Yes but then what am I suppose to do with the broccoli afterwards! Haha

I believe I can see the slop in the steering horn from just that video. Looks like time for a horn rebuild. I’m getting close to doing mine too so if you find a 2 for 1 deal I’ll go in with you! haha

What @N201MKTurbo said^^^ You’ll have to jack it, preload check, engine mounts?, lube certain parts. Might as well do a modified 100 hr. I typically rotate plugs, have timing checked, lubricate it all up a couple more items. It’s not signed off in book as a 100 hr, but it’s a more thorough inspection than just the AD compliance. What hub do you have? I think the gear preload check is probably one of the most overlooked AD’s Mooney owners don’t comply with. Get the tools, print out the instructions and I have my A&P check it with me.