dzeleski

At this point nearly every Mooney produced has had either bladders installed or a reseal. You do not want to search for M20Ks that have never been resealed as thats not actually a good thing. I believe the last K was made in 1998, even that sealant is +20 years old at this point. Mooneys leaking is considered a part of ownership the service manual spells out to what degree its ok or not. Patches are common as well. https://www.weepnomorellc.com/faq.html

As said already this is a fairly urgent situation. I would be flying to a shop that is willing to ream the valve guide without pulling a cylinder (using the rope trick) ASAP. The more you fly it the higher the risk goes. An EGT spike on a single magneto is also completely normal and something those of us with an engine monitor actually look for as it means you have a healthy check. I have also had cases after a long hot XC that a fuel line out of the spider is vapor locked more then the others and that cylinder takes a second to get fuel compared to the others. This feels different however because its only on initial start and then the cylinder comes online and stays online. In the case of a stuck valve it will come and go as the dissimilar metals expand at different rates and interfere randomly. Edit: AirMods is near by to you (N87). That's who does my work and who did my valve guide reaming. Dave knows how to do the rope trick to keep this repair as non invasive as possible. Here are a couple videos of my stuck valves that have occurred:

Depending on access.... I have had a lot of luck using a torch or heat gun depending on the surface sensitivity, and then ice or dry ice on the fitting itself. If the fitting is pointed down you can super cool some water by filling a cup with ice, put a tablespoon of salt in and then fill the rest with water and stir it up. Then just put the cup on the fitting. Keep heating the outside surface while you keep the fitting cold and then quickly try and remove the fitting with a good tool that has a good grip on the fitting. Dry ice is easier to get into strange places though because its not constantly making everything wet.

If you use the disconnect button it also disables the Yaw damp. If you press the AP button then it stays engaged. It also remembers the way it was configured last so I actually never touch the YD button, it’s always on if the AP is engaged. Personally I wouldn’t go without it. In turbulence it makes a big difference for passenger comfort.

SIM20-43 (https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SIM20-43.pdf) was not followed for that install just as an FYI. The T should be higher up, that should help prevent water going down the actual static line and collecting in the belly.

I actually have a lot of issues with water getting in my static line. My airplane is in a hangar but I fly in weather fairly often. The lines are all ran correctly including the SB the adds the hoop up high. I first notice problems with my AP, it will start to hunt ever so slightly in ALT mode, once that starts to happen I know I need to drain the static lines. But its fairly random on how or when it needs to be done. At this point me and my mechanic think it has something to do with hot and cold cycles forming condensation that eventually builds up. What I do to drain the system is use a small jack and a piece of wood with a paper towel in between the wood and the button for the drain. I very gently jack until the button is pressed and I leave it like that for 20-30 minutes (do not get in the airplane when its like this, so you dont put extra pressure on the button). The paper towel seems to help wick the water out faster then without it and I dont need to sit there holding the button for ages.

Sigh, I have a 0 time engine that was delivered 1/23/2014. I don’t have any of the matching part numbers but I might have to give Triad a call. I always cut the filter open and send out the oil for testing. It’s never reported any brass.

I don’t have any specifics for airplane engines but I can give some for autos. 10 degrees of IAT generally equals about 1% of HP. This isn’t a perfect scale but it’s generally close enough. Engines running a turbo and no intercooler I’ve typically seen run well over 200 degrees and some even more then 300, while that same setup with an intercooler should be around 100 degrees under the same conditions. Most ECUs/tunes will pull timing above 130 or so unless a record is trying to be broken. I don’t know what the charge temps look like on these engines but considering they run at fairly high power settings I’m going to guess that an intercooler is going to make a fairly decent impact in power.

Completely understand. If an owner told me "I self insure, it flies regularly" its no problem. If an owner told me "I stopping flying the airplane and let the insurance lapse, or I ran out of money so I stopped insuring it" I would start to have significant concerns about buying a project rather then a flying airplane. The fact that buying discussions got this far before the owner just casually says "oh btw its not insured" is alarming, to me at least. What else isnt being disclosed? At this point it might be easier just to have an A&P inspect on site and then make a buying decision from that, get insurance for the full year, get a ferry permit, and fly it away if its even in a state where it can fly away.

Parker is 100% the person to ask but I would be asking many questions around why the airplane is not insured. To me thats quite a large red flag.

You should never use glass beads according to Tempest. They actually have a really nice guide: https://aeroaccessories.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Sparkplug-Cleaning-The-Right-Way-081412.pdf

Sorry Have you recently upgraded your software? The latest versions better detect failing hardware. A power cycle might get it back but it will probably fail again. If it makes you feel any better the servo swaps are really quick, I had my airplane back within 24 hours of dropping it off. Call your dealer and have them order all the servos, they might even have some on the shelf. My bill was a total of $0.

Maybe that pilot is out of somewhere that issues LAHSO often and they just defaulted to that? Otherwise yeah kind of a weird reaction.

I have officially canceled my hotel in Tampa. We will be heading down to the Bahamas on Sunday once I call a few places to make sure fuel and the resort are still in good shape. Based on what I already see happening in Tampa, my concern is that things are not going to be fully open or open at all including transit like cabs/uber/lyft. If anyone does end up making it down there I hope everyone has a great time. Will hopefully see you all next time!

I’d be stopping at KCPC regardless. We will see what happens no point in flying down just to get stuck and pay for hotels in a place I don’t wanna be in. It will probably be a last minute decision unfortunately.

I changed my hotel from Wed to Friday. Hopefully we can get down Friday but it’s looking rough. I use this page to track this stuff https://spaghettimodels.com as well as https://www.tropicaltidbits.com We were headed to the Bahamas after the summit so regardless we are still headed down Sunday/Monday.

My 77 doesn’t have that, I have one speed and that’s it. I believe that later POH is from the 205 specifically.

That’s what I was trying to get at. I agree with you, nothing wrong with putting them in at the top of the range.

The early Js have a Vfe of 125mph (108kts) and a Vlo/le of 150mph (130kts). The later Js I believe are even higher than that.

There are some really smart people here that might be able to give you an answer but they need details to do that. There are many reasons for an engine not to start and even things like the type of mags installed matter. I would caution you on just throwing parts at a problem, it could be as simple as a loose nut/wire, or ignition switch. @N201MKTurbo's question is important though, have you done anything to the airplane since it last started? Or did you shut it down one day and it failed to start the next and nothing was touched? The reason hes asking this is because you listed a bunch of new parts installed and he has a great deal of experience connecting the dots on these airplanes.

As said above its of course "adjustable" because different STCs have different values, but the STC states it must be set to 7 degrees for a Mooney. Page 7-5 of the pdf I linked above has a table with the reference.

Assuming its a GFC, no there isnt. But the GFC also wont let the airspeed decline below the ESP minimums. So it will maintain 7 degrees until the airspeed gets to the warning threshold in which case it will announce "air speed" and the nose will start to lower to avoid a stall. On page 3-3 of the above pdf I linked there is note for min speed: "Autopilot Underspeed Protection Mode provides a pitch down command to maintain 80 KIAS."

I believe that setting is mandatory and not adjustable. At least for the GFC 500 its called out in the STC for the airframe. Page 7-5: https://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-02291-20_02.pdf

You could also try the old take it off and put it back on deal. They are easy to remove, might be worth a try. I would personally call Garmin at that point and ask how they expect a battery to go bad within 9 months on a brand new install. Its completely possible it was old stock sitting on the shelf. Best of luck!

Not always true. Contact your dealer and ask them to contact Garmin, you may also want to pop an SD card in and collect some logs as well. Make sure you are on the latest G5 software as well because it does a better job of notifying if there is a battery issue. That being said my battery was replaced under warranty because I had a G5 of the effected serials. There is a known issue with the G5s where if you power them up and power them down too quickly they dont fully turn off. You can tell the difference by very carefully looking at the screen, when its still partially on the screen has a green hue to it (but blank) and when its off its completely black. Basically make sure you leave the G5s running for at least until the Navigator self test comes up, click enter/proceed and then power everything off.