dzeleski

Not sure on the E but on my J my overhead vents rattle at certain RPMs. Might be worth touching them and see if the rattle goes away.

It’s done via balloons every handful of hours. https://www.weather.gov/rah/virtualtourballoon https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weather_balloon

I’ll try that next time thanks! I only recently realized this last year when I flew across the US and realized the numbers were not making any sense what so ever.

I’ve had serious issues with flight planning winds with FF. Sometimes it is wildly incorrect and it seems to be something to do with interpolating between measurements points. I also believe it uses a combination of measured winds and forecasted winds.

@Echo Have you visually checked to make sure your mixture control actually brings the mixture back to the ICO stop on the servo? Or asked another way, when you pull back to ICO does the engine shut off immediately or does it run on and stumble for a few seconds? If the cable isn’t reaching ICO the engine will stumble and continue to pull fuel rather than starve, leaving more fuel in the intake when it finally does shut off. Since it’s open more fuel can leak into the intake as the pressure bleeds off. This floods the engine. Then when you go to start again it is able to pull more fuel into the engine making the situation even worse. I had this problem recently when my mixture cable failed. You also might want to make sure the sniffle valve is clean and free as well.

When you are used to climbing at SL in a J at 800-1200 feet per minute and you get out west and your take off climb rate is 200 fpm its not ideal. Ive described it as marginal before because even modest down drafts in the mountains cause more stress then I prefer when flying. I can easily see how people kill themselves in conditions like that. Will the J do it? Yep, and itll probably do a decent job outside of the summer months as well, but for me it was too close to the edge of its performance window. Inside of summer I wouldnt really consider doing it on a regular basis. If I moved out west I would immediately sell my J and get something with a turbo, or at least a 6 cylinder.

Signature is so inconsistent... I generally try to avoid them unless I know its a "good location". Signature North at KAPA was amazing, Signature at KACY.... lets just say its very unfortunate they are the only FBO. If you call ahead at Atlantic and tell them the situation im sure they would be very accommodating to you. They have always done more then I needed without even asking so if you do ask you'll probably get treated quite nicely.

Agreed, I think this is the bigger issue, finances/insurance aside. I paused my IR for exactly that reason.

My opinion was that if oil consumption is 1qt/10hrs it would be pretty unlikely that the plug is oil fouled. Either way pull the plug, it will tell you.

I dont think I said anywhere that the engine wont run just fine, it 100% will run. I and many others absolutely had plug issues by running rich on the ground, my plugs had far more lead build up in them then they do when I stay lean on the ground. Mike Busch recommends it as well. Edit: https://resources.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/slides_airventure2021/2021-07-27 1000 F7 Leaning the Right Way.pdf Page 19 is the summary

Could also just be a bad plug... if you can identify which one it is and swap it with another cylinder, if the issue follows then you have a bad plug. You can also ask your A&P to test the spark plug and see if it passes.

Thats pretty normal oil consumption. If you get photos you can post them here, a bunch of us can help explain what is happening based on photos. A fowled plug doesnt really mean anything is "wrong" on its own. Have you operated an M20 before or was this your first? Are you leaning aggressively on the ground immediately after engine start? If you are not leaning to the point that adding throttle starts to kill the engine you risk fouling a plug. If you are leaning, then you should figure out which plug is fouled (if you have an engine monitor it should be pretty easy to see during the mag check), pull it and see if its lead fouled or oil. If a mag check doesnt make the problem worse or better then you might have "morning sickness" and you may have a valve that is sticking when cold, if you have an engine monitor this is also really easy to spot.

Depends what cylinders are installed, If the engine isnt run hard chrome cylinders can take ages to break in. A little bit of oil after shutdown isnt unheard of especially if the rings just happen to line up the right way. It can also be sneaking in from the valves during shut down. If its a proper pool of oil and the lower spark plug is oil soaked you might have a problem. Generally that would come with pretty high oil consumption as well. A borescope would revel quite a bit however. https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2019/january/pilot/savvy-maintenance-breaking-good "Up to this point, I’ve been discussing break-in of conventional steel-barreled cylinders. There are also two types of electroplated cylinder barrels used in piston aircraft engines: chrome-plated and nickel-plated. Chrome-plated cylinders are extremely hard and durable and utilize a non-honed channeling process to achieve the necessary oil-wettability. Nickel-plated cylinders employ carbide granules embedded in the plating for the same purpose." "The rules for breaking in these plated cylinders are much like those for ordinary steel cylinders. However, channel-chrome cylinders generally require more time to break in—sometimes 50 hours or more—and generally exhibit higher oil consumption than steel cylinders. Nickel-carbide cylinders, on the other hand, tend to break in very quickly and have very low oil consumption." If you dont know what type of cylinder you have installed: https://www.lycoming.com/content/understanding-engine-color-codes

One thing to add is that where the oil sits does not really determine where its leaking from. So dont think because its in X location it must be directly above said location. The air flow in the cowl moves oil ALL over the place. A tiny amount of oil makes a HUGE mess. The fastest way to find the leak is as said above, clean the engine, taxi around using higher then normal taxi RPM (raises oil pressure), come back and remove the cowl. It should be pretty obvious. Personally I would not be flying that airplane with an oil leak that was touching the exhaust, thats a great way to have an engine fire.

Oil leaks that I have had to track down on my J: Cylinder head drain tube clamps, and the tubes themselves Oil filter adapter gasket Oil sump bolts/nuts loose Slightly stuck open oil quick drain Oil/Air separator mounting issues, causes tank to not drain correctly and make a mess Other places to check: Prop Governor Loose Mag Crank seal Push rod tubes

I don’t think anyone would ever actually do this unless they were stuck somewhere and needed to get home or reposition for a fix on a certified airplane. The really nice clamps are usually 50 bucks for 2.5” and larger (not from summit). I could understand that cost going up by 100-300% for testing and validation, paperwork, etc. The fact that charging 500+ dollars for what is a 50 dollar part is just lunacy. And this kinda thing is killing GA.

Yes because they are water cooled. The turbo acts as a giant heat sink. Of course the load is different but the temps are still similar for very long duty cycles. Even after just some ever so slightly spirited driving a turbo will start to glow on an OEM modern car. My b58 powered car does it after just a single small pull. If you shut the car down too soon the ECU will keep the coolant pump and radiator fan running to cool everything down. You won’t notice it glowing during the day but pop your hood at night and I’ll bet you see some red.

An average turbo OEM car is gonna have a TIT right around 1600F every time it’s cruising down the highway. And it’s doing that for way longer than 2000 hours.

They absolutely do. Cherry red also starts way cooler than 1650. That’s also the exhaust flow mass temp not the pipe temp. NA engines can easily get a header cherry red. Modern turbos can tolerate way more than what these airplane turbos can. Modern turbos are water and oil cooled, 1700+ isn’t unheard of (turbo still won’t be very happy here though). I’ve seen more welds fail than clamps, but that also has to do with solid mounting being incredibly tough on parts.

If that clamp has nylon it is meant for the cold side of the turbo system. Intercooler, intake, etc. They also make clamps for the hot side as well. It could also just be the wrong display photo. That being said that nut looks more like a notched and crushed nut rather than a nylon locker. I have a box of these clamps in various sizes from building turbo kits and exhaust systems. The fact that these are anything more than $50 is what really frustrates me about GA.

When I was tied down outside I used a generator with just cowl plugs for an hour. That got the engine up from the 20-30s to 50s or so in most cases. Enough to get it started easily. I do have a Reiff XP system though which is 100 watts on each cylinder and 200 watts on the sump. Now that I’m inside I start the engine heat 4 hours before my flight and the cabin heater 1-2 hours before my flight. At -5 you are gonna need to give it a few hours at least since the Tanis system provides way less heating power.

It could. Flow creates pressure via resistance. So if you have something leaking pressure, adding more flow will increase the pressure since that leak is only so large and will cause resistance.

You can measure the compressed stack of donuts and see if they are in or out of spec. To me its a bit odd to just replace the mains, if the mains needed to be done I would have just done the nose as well. When you land, where is the trim indicator? In cruise where is the trim indicator? Generally when I take off I add a bit more trim then the labeled take off trim (usually the entire indicator is above the takeoff marking). In my J it takes about 10lb of force to get the nose up and then I can immediately relax that pressure and just let it fly.

But this isnt employment or health services. You are effectively buying a service from a company, they can provide that service or not. Car insurance companies have been giving women cheaper rates for decades due to lower risk. If thats legal there is no chance in hell age gets removed as a variable for rates. NY has something that protects older car drivers, which basically says they can charge more but not excessively more. In the US cars are considered somewhat mandatory for most of the country, personal airplanes.... probably not so much. https://www.dfs.ny.gov/insurance/ogco2001/rg108221.htm Also scientifically there are so many studies that show that as we age our reaction times worsen and our cognitive abilities worsen. I know none of us want to admit that but its a simple fact of life unfortunately.

I almost went to the same school but after doing some research these stories pop up more often than I would like to see. I decided to just stick with my instructor at home and work around his schedule. The other thing that has been apparent with some of these accelerated schools is that they are teaching you the bare minimum, not what you really need in the real world. This is especially true if you fly for yourself rather than to get a job flying. So many CFIs at these schools are clueless as to how someone would actually fly in the real world that it’s painful to listen too. I’m not shocked that the ball was dropped somewhere. Personally if this happened to me there would’ve been a lawyer involved the second I had some lunatic follow me into an FBO and threaten to enter my property without authorization. That’s not just crossing the professional line that crosses the psychotic line. Id seriously consider a cease and desist and I would find a trusted well reviewed private CFII to finish your rating with. I’ll never walk into another 141 school again because of all this crap.